Sail Blog 22: Sailing Through Croatia: Adventures in Kornati and Beyond
25 July 2024
Garth, Steven, Peter & Paul Trilogy
Exploring Kornati National Park: Over the past few days, we've continued our journey through the stunning Kornati National Park, securing a mooring in one of its serene bays. Our adventure took us on a hike to the top of a mountain on Levrnaka Island. From the summit, we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the park's barren mountains, limestone outcrops, and hilltop castles, relics of medieval times now often used as movie sets. The beauty of the inland waters only enhanced the scene.
After our invigorating climb, we plunged into the turquoise waters of Uvala Lojena. The bay was free of sharks and stingers, but full of sunbathers embracing the freedom of nature. We wrapped up the day with a delightful dinner at a local restaurant to celebrate Molly's birthday by the bay, relishing the fresh seafood and local wine.
Journey to Krka National Park: Our next stop took us down the coast to a secluded bay, where we prepared for a trip to Krka National Park. There, we marveled at the spectacular waterfalls, the historic mill, and the old hydro station. Built in the 1800s, this hydro station was the second in the world to supply energy, bested only by three days. Impressively, Croatia still generates about 50% of its energy from hydroelectric power.
Battling the Elements: The past week presented its own challenges, primarily dealing with unpredictable weather. We encountered yet another fierce squall while seeking safe refuge in a supposedly protected bay, which turned out to be anything but. "Sranje," I muttered in Croatian as we made a hasty retreat. We then aimed for an anchorage on the island of Kaprije, only to find the bottom unsuitable for anchoring due to seaweed. "That won't hold us," I said, and we moved on to a 5-tonne mooring. About ten other boats followed us, some mistakenly attempting to anchor in the seaweed.
A Thrilling Sail to Zadar: Today marked a highlight of our journey, a three-hour sail up the inland passage towards Zadar. With two reefs in the main and the staysail set, we reached speeds of 7-9 knots. The weather here changes rapidly, making what seemed like a good destination at 8:00 AM completely unsuitable by noon. However, we are now anchored in a well-protected bay, Uvala Prtljug, catching up on admin work and preparing for the arrival of Steven and Irene.
The highlight for the grandchildren has been swimming, jumping off Trilogy, and the evening competition of UNO with the grandchildren. It is a very competitive game!
Upcoming Adventures: Tomorrow, we head to Preko for a hike up to the St. Michael Castle, where we'll overnight in the bay before returning to the marina in Zadar. The adventures continue, and we eagerly anticipate what the next days will bring.
Sail Blog 21: Setting Sail from Zadar: A Family Voyage
20 July 2024
Garth, Steven, Peter & Paul Trilogy
As we set our course from Zadar towards the high seas, the weather forecast over the next few days promises favourable conditions for our southern voyage. Susan has done an incredible job in catering for the unique food requirements of our family. We are now ready to hoist the sails and embark on a thrilling adventure, with plans to return to our beloved Zadar the following week.
Our trusty vessel, Trilogy, is in excellent shape and fully operational. We've tackled numerous issues over the past few days, performing maintenance in some rather exotic locations along the way.
The grandchildren are absolutely thrilled to be aboard Trilogy, and their enthusiasm is infectious with declarations like, "Best day ever!" It's been a joy having the family on board and sharing these precious moments together.
We anchored at Juzna Frnaza, our favourite spot for the first night out from Zadar. The grandchildren had a blast jumping off the boat and simply enjoying the experience of being aboard Trilogy.
We took a delightful tour of the charming Croatian fishing village of Veli Iz on the island of Iz. There, we indulged in some amazing ice cream accompanied by fresh watermelon. The island is renowned for its traditional pottery, a craft that has been practiced for centuries.
Our journey then took us to the U-Boat bunker in Uvala Bukasin, where we spent the night. These bunkers are remnants of WWII and the Cold War period, initially constructed by German forces and later utilized by the Yugoslav Army as fortified submarine pens.
The highlight of our recent days was snorkelling at the shipwreck of the Merchant Ship "Michelle," which ran aground in 1983 at the top of Veli Rat on the island of Dugi Otok. It was an incredible experience, exploring the underwater remnants of this once-mighty vessel.
Today, we rose early, ready to head into the Kornati National Park, when suddenly a storm appeared out of nowhere, with wind gusts reaching 40kn. Our main concern was not for Trilogy's safety on the mooring but for other boats failing to moor securely and breaking loose and causing chaos. With a high CAPE in the weather forecast (energy available for thunderstorms) indicating potential trouble, we decided to spend another day on the buoy at Uvala Sakarun.
Sail Blog 20: Sailing the Adriatic: From Juzna Frnaza to Zadar and Beyond
07 July 2024
Garth, Steven, Peter & Paul Trilogy
After a peaceful night anchored in the serene bay of Juzna Frnaza, we started our day with a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic. With the morning sun warming our spirits, we set sail towards Zadar, eager to explore a new destination.
As we approached Zadar Harbour, we navigated our way to D-Marin Marina, hoping to secure a berth before the winds picked up. Unfortunately, there were no early berths available, so we retreated back into the bay to wait for a message confirming our spot.
Once we received the call, it was time for the inevitable chores that accompany life at sea. We booked the washing room in the marina and tackled six loads of laundry. While the washing machines worked their magic, we cleaned the yacht, stocked up on provisions, and took care of some essential maintenance.
This was also a time of farewells. We bid goodbye to Simon and Lynne and readied Trilogy for the arrival of Karan and Warren, Paul's sister and brother-in-law.
In need of some parts, I ventured into the local Nautica store. To my pleasant surprise, I found exactly what I was looking for--an unusual stroke of luck in the world of yacht maintenance, in exotic places. The store assistant was incredibly helpful, and I left with a grin, parts in hand, ready to tackle the next task.
Supermarket shopping in Zadar, however, proved to be less straightforward. At the Konzum, we were told we couldn't bring our big trolleys inside and couldn't borrow their trolleys either. To top it off, a Konzum shop assistant tried to steal our old shopping bags at checkout. World war III was shaping up. It's easy to sympathize with anyone facing the frustrations of supermarket shopping.
With the chores completed, we headed into Zadar Old Town to explore its historic charm. This well-preserved gem boasts impressive Roman and medieval architecture, including the Roman Forum, built by Emperor Augustus in the 3rd century. Wandering through the ancient streets, we felt the weight of history and the beauty of this timeless place.
Zadar, is also renowned for its unique musical attraction by the sea known as the "Sea Organ" a great attraction which we all enjoyed.
After a day of exploration, we returned to Trilogy, readying ourselves for the next leg of our journey. Our first major anchorage was Muline, a site rich with history. Here, we discovered the remains of an old Roman mill. But the highlight of our visit was a delightful wine tasting hosted by a lovely Croatian lady. The wine, spectacular and fresh. The wine tasting room, the oldest building in Muline had been opened for only three days. Her knowledge of viniculture was impressive, and we couldn't help but think how much our Aussie friends would love this experience. Back on Trilogy we settled in for the evening Gin and Tonic. With our anchor ball proudly displayed and 30 meters of chain securely deployed, we were enjoying a peaceful evening on the water. Suddenly, a 45-foot "rent-a-yacht" approached, seemingly intent on grabbing our anchor buoy and tying up for the night. A piercing scream erupted from our cockpit: "That's our anchor buoy, NOT a mooring buoy!" The skipper of the rental yacht quickly apologised, realising his mistake. He then moved on to find a more suitable spot to anchor for the night.
Sailing the Adriatic is all about discovering these hidden gems and sharing unforgettable moments with friends. Every day brings new adventures, and we can't wait to see what lies ahead.
Sail Blog 19: Sailing from Vis to Zadar
28 June 2024
Garth, Steven, Peter & Paul Trilogy
After our delightful second visit to the Blue Cave, we set sail towards Zadar, making an intriguing stop at Uvala Parja. Here, we explored the Potkop Parja, an underground boat shelter constructed by the Yugoslav army, capable of housing two submarines. Going ashore, we ventured into the underground tunnels and side passages that branched out across the peninsula. Vis, strategically significant in the Adriatic Sea, was heavily fortified by Tito, the post-WWII leader of Yugoslavia, with numerous military installations, bunkers, and tunnels.
A restful night prepared us for the next leg of our journey to Zlarin, an enchanting island, before setting course for Šibenik the following morning. We rose early to navigate up the river, with Paul and Peter diligently checking and double checking power line and bridge clearances. Navionics charts indicated ample clearance, allowing us to proceed confidently up the river with our 24m mast. At the river's mouth, we were greeted by the magnificent St. Nicholas Fortress, a spectacular castle constructed by the Republic of Venice to protect the vital waterways and the town of Šibenik from invasion.
Our scenic journey brought us to a pier just outside Šibenik, where we docked for free in exchange for dining at a local restaurant - a deal we gladly accepted. After arranging a water taxi, we headed to Krka National Park to marvel at its famous waterfalls, a major attraction in the area. We bought our tickets, boarded the ferry, and enjoyed a 30-minute ride to the park. Swans gracefully swam around anchored yachts along the way, hoping for a snack.
Upon arrival at Krka National Park, we wandered through the waterfalls, observed the historic hydroelectric system, and noted the prohibition of swimming in the falls. Retracing our steps back to Trilogy, we ended the day with a joyous celebration of Susan's birthday at the restaurant, capping off a fantastic day and night of festivities. Next morning up early to continue the journey to Zadar.
Sail Blog 18: Split to VIS
25 June 2024 | VIS, Croatia
Garth, Steven, Peter & Paul Trilogy
We began the next part of our journey in the picturesque city of Split, where Simon and Lynne joined us for our adventure to Zadar. Our plan includes revisiting some favourite moorings along the way, starting with a return to the charming bay of Nečujam. It's always a pleasure to recycle these familiar spots, offering a sense of nostalgia and comfort, but this time with many more boats anchored in the bay.
A Walk Through History. Our next destination brought us back to Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in Europe, established by the Greeks in 384 BC. It was wonderful to see this historic gem again. We executed a perfect Mediterranean mooring, which caught the attention of a very chatty French sailor. After tendering into the old town, we explored the ancient streets and visited the old church built in the 3rd century. The history of this area is simply fascinating, with layers of culture and stories etched into every stone. Getting the Mercury outboard running reliably again was a significant effort, but it's now purring like a kitten.
The Jewel of Vis Island. Today, we set sail for Vis, arriving at the charming town of Komiža. Entering Komiža, we noted the remnants of tunnels in the hillside, a reminder that Vis was once a military island. These tunnels add a mysterious and historical aura to the landscape.
Mooring in the bay we caught up with Petra, a lovely Croatian lady from Komiža who operates a fast boat to the Blue Caves. Lynne and Simon booked a trip with her, and they are excited to explore this natural wonder. Meeting and reconnecting with people in these coastal towns, along with the thousands of tourists, is a special part of the journey. It's heartwarming to be remembered and to share stories and experiences with friends made along the way.
Tonight, we are settled on a mooring buoy, watching the lightning dance in the distance. The sky is alive with a spectacular display, adding a dramatic backdrop to our peaceful evening. As we reflect on the day, the blend of history, nature, and camaraderie makes this sailing adventure truly unforgettable.
Sail Blog 17: Milna to Split
21 June 2024
Garth, Steven, Peter & Paul Trilogy
We have finally returned to Split after an exciting time with family and said our farewells. We are missing everyone already, but the news of their journey through EuroDisney and the close connection flights to get there did not disappoint. The smiles and laughter keep coming.
The last few days were spent in the charming seaside village of Milna on the island of Brač. This beautiful village, dating back to Neolithic times, provided us with an enriching experience. We explored the old church and marvelled at the historical red lamp, which has been lit nightly since the 15th century.
After our exploration, we returned to the bay of Necuijam. To our dismay, we found the arrogant German we had spoken about previously, so we quickly moved on, dropped anchor elsewhere, and enjoyed a well-deserved swim in the crystal-clear waters.
Today, we refuelled at the fuel dock and then proceeded to our berth with a perfect docking (if I do say so myself, no wind helped greatly).
We welcomed Simon and Lynn Dunlop aboard Trilogy, and they are settling in nicely.
Tonight, we enjoyed the best meal in Split, dining at a classical Croatian restaurant, with a very entertaining waiter. The selection of fish we shared was exquisite, featuring sea bream, swordfish, and much more.
Tomorrow, we will service the generator, do a bit of paperwork before we depart the marina and hit the high seas and commence our journey to Zadar.