Medieval Hill Towns
02 September 2015 | Sant Feliu
Myra Rowling
With the weather looking uncertain, we decided to stay a few days in Sant Feliu and visit a few of the hill towns inland.
The first was Girona, a very pretty medieval town on a river (called Onyar, a great name for this river!). As you cross one of the many bridges ( one built by Gustav Eiffel), a long row of pastel coloured houses hangs out over the river, making us think of Florence or Venice. The newer town on the other side of the river is full of lovely shops and squares and plane trees, and we had a "choose your own tapas" lunch in the square commemorating the 1809 battle with the French. It was this battle that lead to the houses being built to replace sections of the damaged city wall. And of course new town is where the famous Roca brothers have their No. 1 restaurant, El Celler de Can Roca.
The highlight of the old town was the 15th century cathedral, built on top of a Roman temple, with the most wealthy and beautiful collection of treasures, including an alabaster statue of King Charlemagne from 12th century, a 11th century round tapestry of The Creation, a Papal Bull by Pope Formosus written in 893, and sarcophagi of a king and queen also from the 11th century. The huge processional crosses of gold were covered in precious stones -pity the poor men that carried them. The cathedral itself has a marble throne known as Charlemagne's chair, Charlemagne having conquered Girona in 785. The canopy high above it is gold. The altarpiece is jewel encrusted silver and enamel, and the stain glass windows are stunning, including a very modern one by Sean Scully.
There is also a museum in the Jewish Ghetto that charts the history of the Jews in Girona from the 9th century till their expulsion in 1492. And lastly, the 14th century Sant Feliu church built over the tombs of St Felix and St Narcissus, patron saints of the city. The latter is the Saint of flies, as when Girona suffered one of its many French invasions (Girona is called the city of 1,000 sieges), a plague of biting flies flew out of his tomb and drove the invaders away.
The makers of Game of Thrones obviously appreciated Girona's appeal too. They were filming in some of the streets.
The next day on to the Golden Triangle - three tiny high medieval towns called Pals, Peratallada and Palau Sator, whose records date from the 11th century. Lots of cobbled passageways between the houses ( now ceramic and other shops), castles and towers - all built of lovely coloured rocks. And a good lunch at La Roca in Peratallada, surrounded by fig, persimmon, bay and lemon trees, and a view of the surrounding countryside to equal Tuscany