Sitges to L'Ampolla
17 September 2015 | L'Ampolla
Ros Brice
Next stop, Tarragona. The 14 knots of wind was blowing from the SW and with the first reef in the main we were pleased to enter the marina. Due to the wind strength and being directed to berth in a narrow space, the skipper made the unexpected decision to moor bow first in order to have greater control of the bow when the stern first approach had been too tricky. This had the crew scrambling, fending off and retying lines as Trilogy was rotated on its own length, but the outcome was just what was required, except that there was no paseralle to safely step ashore. Creative as always, the boys had the girls clambering over the high sided guard rails of the unoccupied motor cruiser next to Trilogy and step off the stern platform conveniently positioned at wharf height.
To our delight and surprise, Tarragona was in festival mode, with the opening celebrations in the town square soon after we arrived. We held our position in the milling crowd, taking in the scene developing around us. The formal welcome was inside the Town Hall which we could glimpse through the upper windows followed by a fanfare trumpeted and tromboned from the balcony. With all eyes on the mayoress who appeared on the balcony to make a short announcement in Spanish (of course), to our utter amazement she lit a rocket which was fired from the balcony over the crowd to the middle of the square where fireworks had been set-up....Booom!! For a good 15 minutes viscerally loud explosions rebounded around the space, filling the air with billowing smoke and a ticket tape finale that descended on the spectators. The children were all covering their ears, but their eyes were wide and not a cry was heard. How that rocket hit its target we'll never know.....it was definitely not sent along a wire; so much for OH&S!! The scene was set for a fun night for all.
We headed up the narrow cobblestone street, passing by some beautiful old shop windows to the steps of the church where pink shirted teenagers moved en masse to the beat of the drums. The incredibly talented guys and girls of the drum troop were beating a mesmerising throb with total commitment. After several rounds of intense drumming accompanied by crowd vocals, the mass of hyped young people surged down the hill and we were again engulfed. As we got swept along, our cameras were working overtime. Half way down the hill, we peeled off to enter a relatively quiet street that had a recommended tapas bar and indeed it was a delicious meal eg baby broad beans with smoked bacon, chargrilled Padron peppers, carpaccio of veal, spicy meatballs in tomato sauce, chicken croquettes, and calamari chunks. Back into the throng, we headed in the direction of the marina. The young people were now enjoying a disco in the street, with the music at full throttle and the party guaranteed to last all night. Wow, Tarragona had turned on such an event that we were convinced they were celebrating the news of Malcolm Turnbull's success!
The next day took us further down the Costa Dorada (Golden Coast) which is so-called because of the golden sandy beaches between the mouths of two large rivers, the Ebro and Tordera. This coastline is some of the most attractive we have encountered in our voyage around the Mediterranean, with a backdrop of ragged mountains, green coastal plains, almost continuous coastal development interspersed by scenic natural headlands. Trilogy was running before the wind, with an average speed of 7-8 knots on light winds. We anchored at Playa de Roig and after a late lunch we enjoyed a swim ashore and walk along the beach. Dinner was served with a gentle swell rocking Trilogy, but the updated weather files had reported that a big blow was coming our way early next morning. After much discussion and contemplation, the decision was to lift the anchor and move further around the point. With no moonlight to assist, we motored across the bay while spotlighting for the ubiquitous flagged fishing buoys and anchored in 5 metres in the middle of the bay, which would provide some protection from the expected 30-35 knots of wind. Feeling somewhat comforted that Trilogy was safely anchored, we slept well in the calm before the storm.
We awoke to a beautiful sunny sky and silky smooth water.....how can this be?? It seems that we were in a weather bubble with the gale force winds blowing all around us, and that could change anytime. The nearby marina was happy to give us berth on the sea wall, so before breakfast we made it safely into the marina and tied off with plenty of extra mooring lines.
To our delight, although the gale force winds steadily increased through the day, we were able to enjoy a delightful day exploring the delta region of the Ebro River. With the help of a comfortable taxi, we journeyed through the rice fields to the south of L'Ampolla. It is the beginning of the rice harvest and apparently 20 million tonnes per annum of rice are produced in the region. After a delicious lunch of a salad plate followed by a rice with seafood dish, we took a river boat ride to the mouth of the delta, where we not only experienced the full force of the gale but the wonderful bird life of the region, flying backwards today! The landscape was very special: the yellow green of the flat rice fields, the wind swept clouds in a bright blue sky, the whipped up sea sending spray high into the air and the nearby jagged mountains creating a majestic backdrop.
Well satisfied after our unexpected roadie while we waited for the weather to pass. We settled for a light dinner on board Trilogy, who had faired well with the protection of the sea wall. By the light of a slivered moon and only a light breeze, the day ended happily once more.