The surprising thing about this Caribbean journey is how each island is same, same but also very different. As we've sailed north first through the Windward Islands and then Leeward Islands, each island has a distinguishing difference and for Antigua, it is the beautiful beaches. You know that image in your head of the perfect golden sandy beach, with the perfect aquamarine water, coconut palms swishing in the background, nothing on the beach except for one brightly coloured umbrella and a colourful figure somewhere in the distance leaving only footprints, that is really here in Antigua!
In our hire car we drove north from Jolly Harbour on the western side of the island, through fairly uninteresting flat terrain which as dotted with small communities, to the capital of Antigua St John's, which is tucked on a sheltered bay, about 5 miles west of the international airport. Intriguingly shabby, St John's is the commercial centre for the island. We sat at traffic lights on several occasions long enough to observe the true flavour of the local citizens. St John's is a cruise ship destination and to the north of St John's is where the middle market of mainly British and American tourists head to the busy resorts on Dickenson Bay. Having no desire to explore that scene, we headed around the other side of the peninsula to Fort James and found our perfect beach called Limerez Beach. A delightful timber beach bar built just 2 years ago was tucked up into the headland end of the beach, and this is where we found some coffee and local cake, while we soaked up the vista.
From here we travelled inland and to the south along All Saints Road, initially through fairly flat terrain after leaving the coast, noting a large number of churches of every creed and size. This seemed to jar with the observation that although the churches were often very large and well maintained, the local housing was basic and somewhat unkempt. We reached the coast at Falmouth Harbour which is where Trilogy will later be hauled out for the hurricane season and the skipper wanted to meet the people he had already been dealing with. The marina was small in size but filled with the most magnificent yachts, all vying for the longest, shiniest, tallest mast, etc. We ate a light lunch at the marina cafe and just as we finished, Brave Heart berthed at the marina and proudly took her place among the giants.
Many were Oysters, who had gathered for a race the coming weekend, as a prelude to the racing season. Yachts from all over the world come to Falmouth and English Harbours in late April for the Antigua Sailing Week. From small beginnings, this regatta has developed over more than 48 years to become one of the pre-eminent yacht racing events in the Caribbean and one of the most prestigious worldwide.
Our next stop was Nelson's Dockyard, set on English Harbour. This world famous dockyard was named after Admiral Horatio Nelson and is Antigua's most prized historic possession. English Harbour's importance grew in the 18th century and was originally established to provide the British Royal Navy with a dockyard where they could keep their ships in good repair in order to maintain their ascendancy in the Caribbean against other European powers. It is also an ideal port to keep the fleet in troubled times since the enclosed harbour of Freeman's Bay is almost invisible from the sea. The narrow entrance was protected by Fort Berkeley, completed in 1744. It also served as a hurricane refuge and for careening His Majesty's ships in the deep water against the shore. By being able to repair, victual and water ships in the West Indies, Britain was able to keep a squadron of ships continually in the Caribbean, thus maintaining naval superiority over the enemy.
Admiral Horatio Nelson spent formative years here, arriving at age 26, in command of the frigate Boreas. He was Senior Captain and Second-in-Command of the Leeward Islands Station, whose headquarters were in English Harbour. Nelson never lived ashore while in Antigua. We thoroughly enjoyed exploring the lovely old buildings and stone seawall, built between 1815 and 1830 and restored in 2003, with yacht facilities added. The Dockyard Museum was most interesting and viewing what is purported to be Admiral Nelson's timber housed telescope was fascinating. As we will return to this area at the conclusion of our cruising season, we know there is something pretty special to further explore.
The remainder of our island tour took us along Fig Tree Drive, skirting the Shakerley Mountains in the south west, through a rainforest area where we noted remnants of banana and pineapple plantations. From there we once more connected with the southern coast where a string of beautiful beaches can be found, passing by Turner's Beach and Jacqui O's Love Beach before getting back to Tranquility Bay and Jolly Harbour.
Once our laundry was collected and sorted and the car returned, the usual evening pleasantries got underway. Garth and Sue raved about a Goulash they ate for dinner, which it turned out was prepared by the Hungarian born chef....many cultures blend in the Caribbean! The wind had not abated next day and we decided to have a lay day, enjoying a beach swim, pool swim, morning coffee, a soothing pedicure for the girls to remove the barnacles, a No3 buzz cut for Peter, some final shopping and minor repairs to Trilogy.