The wind was blowing strongly from the south when we awoke. The sky was clearer but clouds billowed around. We left the mooring at Vixen Point and moved around the point to pick up another mooring, adjacent to Saba Rock. The snorkelling was reputed to be very good on the nearby reef, but if that was the case, we didn't find it so! We found a grassy seabed and as we pushed further and further around the point in search of coral and fish, things slowly improved. However, it wasn't what we had hoped and when we headed back to the boat that's when we realised we had our work cut out against the strong wind and current to get back to Trilogy!
The guys discovered the generator would not kick over and that it probably required a new impeller. We had the spare part but getting access to replace it was very difficult, so Peter disappeared down the starboard lazarette for a free sauna with the skipper meeting multiple requests for different tools....what a team! With the generator purring again, we had a late lunch and motored across Gorda Sound to Leverick Bay to get protection from the south for the night. There was plenty of activity on the Sound as it was Sunday and it was quite a spectacle to have the local skiffs racing straight towards us at one stage.
Leverick Bay is a very pretty spot, with steep green hillsides dotted with up market houses and a low key hotel and beach bar. We had learnt that this is Richard Branson's turf and that he owns two islands in the Sound within sight of each other, Mosquito and Neckar Islands....not that we had any chance of rubbing shoulders with Richard and friends! We went ashore and all relaxed for several hours, checking out the various clothing and dive shops, supermarket and Spa. Sue and Ros indulged in another pampering pedicure, while others chased Internet connectivity. Several cocktails later and some delicious fish and chips for dinner, we all headed back to Trilogy.
The southerly abated overnight and after a quick trip ashore to pay mooring fees, we departed for Anegada Island, for what promised to be something special. Anegada is 35 sq kms in size, making it the second largest island in the BVI behind Tortola Island, but the population is a mere 350 persons, about half of which are locally born and bred. Anegada Island is about 15 NM due north of Virgin Island and we motor sailed all the way. The fishing rod was deployed, but with no success. Before we knew it, we were approaching the narrow, tricky channel through the reef to reach the somewhat shallow lagoon off the south west side of the island. The navigation route required sailing north until we could turn east and track the buoys for some distance, watching the depth gauge all the way. There were a lot of yachts already in the lagoon, both moored and anchored, so after careful consideration, Trilogy was anchored in 4 metres.
The afternoon was spent making arrangements for dinner ashore, as our pilot said we had to book before 4pm. The island is famous for its BBQ lobster meals and we chose Potters by the Sea. In contrast to all other islands we've visited, Anegada has a very low profile (highest point 10 metres) but is renowned for its beautiful long sandy beaches and flamingos. The island was created by the movement between the Atlantic and Caribbean plates, which meet to the northeast of the island. It is a unique island and we felt blessed to have visited such an interesting place, where life is very relaxed. We took a taxi to Cow Wreck Beach on the northern side of the island for a few hours of bliss as we were all touched by the serenity and beauty of this isolated coast. A long sandy white beach stretched out before us, crystal clear aquamarine water and a fringing reef beyond. We lazed about in the 29+degree temperature water for a long time before succumbing to the multi coloured timber beach chairs, with cocktails in hand. Reggae music (Red, red wine, Goes to my head.....) floated out from the bar and we learnt that the locally born barman was an accountant in his former life and he agreed that the view from his office windows has significantly improved!
The taxi driver's wife was born on the island but her parents had moved to Miami to establish themselves when the children were young. She had returned to the island 6 years ago, along with her parents, who continue to run their business from this remote location. The taxi driver also holds the position of fireman for the island airport and this means he goes to the UK three times a year for ongoing training! Their three girls were all being educated on nearby Tortola Island, and returned home every weekend. It is most interesting to hear how different lives in different circumstances play out!
Dinner was at 19:30 and most of us had ordered grilled lobster. We got a shock when we realised that we had to contend with some very drunk American women on the next table. One of them shrieked at us 'welcome' when we arrived at the table and it didn't let up! Their raucous behaviour did provide entertainment but it made the night memorable for all the wrong reasons! The lobster was served with a lemon/garlic sauce and baked potato. Lobsters are plentiful around the island and we thoroughly enjoyed eating such a coveted crustacean for a very reasonable price.
As we gently motored across the glassy lagoon under the twinkling stars, we knew we had fallen in love with Anegada!