We had a threatening sky building up around us when we anchored in Punta Ostiones. It seems that on this part of the Puerto Rican coast an afternoon tropical storm is a given. We delayed our swim ashore until after lunch and by then the wind had whipped up the sea and a swim was less attractive, but it was also very humid! The girls decided to do a couple of laps of Trilogy but it was not pleasant and just as we climbed the ladder, the rain set in. It was steady rain for an hour or more and then slowly eased off and the sun peaked through at the end of the afternoon. The boys then decided they would swim ashore but came back after walking the mangrove lined beach sections reporting that the midgies were fierce. Midgies are a group of small flies found apparently on every land mass outside permanent deserts and frozen zones. They are just visible and deliver a very itchy reaction. The Puerto Ricans call them pequeños. They had no trouble getting out to Trilogy and before long we were all scratching, but they especially loved Sue.
As we had bought fresh whole red snapper to cook on board at the last marina, we decided to cook our own fish and chip meal for the first time this trip. We had 4 half pound sized fish that all squeezed into the fry pan for a sizzle. The chips we did by part cooking first in the MW oven and then finishing in the oven. A bit of broccoli for good measure and we had a yummy meal!
The sky had cleared somewhat next morning and a swim ashore was definitely on the agenda. There was an attractive looking development to the north of the mangroves, fenced securely to keep us out. We enjoyed the swim ashore and before long, a friendly man approached us to ask questions about what we were doing with Trilogy. You get the feeling not many cruising boats come this way, or at least have crew who swim ashore! Victor was very, very friendly and told us he had worked for Coca Cola at an executive level. He had bought a lovely apartment in the development in 2005 but today the apartment has been considerably devalued. Why?... economic downturn, with only 4 in 10 Puerto Ricans in employment. There are only 12 permanent residents in this quality development and the rest are owned by US mainland residents who come for vacations between November and February. Victor offered us a fresh water shower at poolside which got us through the security gate and he persisted with offering gifts: fresh drinking water, fresh towels to dry off and mountain grown freshly ground coffee that he would bring back for us if we were still in the bay at 18:00. He was keen we stay for the day and come to the festival that was on in a mountain village! He was such a generous soul and a pleasure to meet. We explained that we were keen to exercise by snorkelling and swimming and then he produced a photo of himself 2 years ago, which showed him very much more portly.....he had shed 65lb and looked very svelt, by cycling, walking, swimming and good food (and I guess no Coca Cola!).
We farewelled Victor as if he were our best friend and wandered along the beach to where we thought there was a chance to get across the shallow reef area and into deeper water. It was a tricky exercise, unique in our experience, as we followed a narrow and very shallow ditch that we could barely float over. It was most fortunate that the barnacles were covered with a soft greenish weed that allowed our hands to propel us forward without any cuts. It was incredible looking through our masks at the microcosms of life that we were disturbing as we slithered forward. It was like the little fish were sent into panic and darted swiftly into retreat, scratching their scales and wondering who on earth were these monsters? Once free of the shallows, we were again privileged to be in an underwater garden that swayed and danced for us. There were more fish of all colours and varieties than previously seen, including 2 barracudas that disappeared quickly. We have become increasingly disappointed with the pilotage book that is the only sailing guide for Puerto Rican waters, due to lack of information or misinformation presented. The coral at this anchorage did not even rate a mention! 
We relaxed a while on board with a cuppa, while we were entertained by 8-10 jet skis that all set off from shore as a group. Although they past by Trilogy's stern, they had a destination much further off shore and soon disappeared. By now the sky was building up from all four quarters to make it quite clear that rain was imminent. We fastened the hatches and watched with interest as the various systems converged and lightening flickered ever closer to us. It pelted down for some time and then cleared and we lifted the anchor and motored 13 NM in no wind to Bahia de Mayagüez. We had trouble locating a dinghy wharf (pilot was of no use!) and eventually found a spot in deep enough water, had pleasant surroundings and was not in the ferry path. We waited long enough for the rain to ease and set off in our wet weather gear for a walk around.
Mayagüez (mah-yah-gwes) is the largest city on the west coast of Puerto Rico, with a population of over 100,000 and is fondly known as 'the sultana of the west'! The city itself is centred around the impressive Spanish-style Plaza Colón, a tribute to Christopher Columbus. Christopher Columbus' name in Spanish is Cristóbal Colón! Christopher Columbus merely discovered new worlds and did not plunder or exploit the people of Puerto Rico. This is why his memory is favourably honoured with a statue. Mayagüez is a commercial port and the primary industry was tuna packing, about 60% of the US market tuna being packed there. The only tuna factory remaining in town is that for Bumble Bee. The city proper is not all that evident from the foreshore so we planned to walk to the city centre, several kilometres away. The first car that passed by stopped and offered us a lift, and when we said we wanted to walk, he gave us detailed instructions. We couldn't quite believe his kindness. We walked a bit further getting ever closer to some loud music. Another guy asked us where we were going and called on some local children to tell us in English where we could get a drink (not that we had asked!). We walked past the first bar that was thumping out the beat and within a short distance another big guy wearing a baseball cap jumped from his car, rushed over to us and introduced himself 'as a retired US marine, yes sir!' He genuinely wanted to befriend us and told us he was here for the good music and dancing. What he was referring to was a Sunday afternoon neighbourhood gathering with covered bar and karaoke machine set in the open air. We had hit the jackpot! The big guy started introducing us around to other seated groups, the music blared with the Latino rhythm, people took turns to give renditions of their favourite songs and there was much hugging and clapping. The rain continued but this lot were too happy to notice. Our table was right in the middle of the action and the locals seemed very pleased to have us there. One guy asked me my name and dedicated his song to me; the big guy shouted us all another round of beers; the serenader wanted us all to have a shot of rum liquor and meantime we watched the locals groove along to the music. The guys bought rounds of drinks for the men to return the favours and they were genuinely touched. We stood up to say goodbyes and we had to shake a lot of hands in friendship before we took our leave. Goodness knows how long this party continued but it was clear that Puerto Ricans know how to enjoy themselves.
We continued our walk towards the city centre and we were amazed on our way close to the city centre that a large number of horses appeared. One guy rode bareback down the main street with the horse trotting at a fair pace while he leaned a long way back....very odd to watch! As the light was falling we decided to jump into an empty taxi that we noticed in a service station and asked to be taken to a recommended restaurant, El Masón Español. Fortunately they we happy to seat us, even though closing time was 19:30. We enjoyed our Spanish dishes and rum liquor on the house before we caught a taxi back to the jetty. It was a relief to see the tender still in tact and Trilogy patiently waiting for our return. We were all amazed at the hand of friendship that had reached out to us throughout the day.