A strong current was ripping through the cut next morning and as more swimming was not wise, we decided to set a course for Saline Bay on Mayreau Island, a distance of only 3NMs. Saline Bay has a lovely long beach and the usual reefs surrounded both headlands. There was a cluster of houses on the northern headland and a large power station down the slope overlooking the bay. It is hard to imagine why the electricity plant got prime real estate!
There were only a small number of yachts in the bay and we were able to anchor 300 metres from shore. After a quick lunch we were all in the water, keen to cool off and explore the beach and reef on the southern headland. The Silver Sea cruise ship Silver Wind was anchored well out of the bay, but this was clearly a destination that Southern Caribbean cruise ships frequented. The tail end of today’s guests were being life rafted back to their floating palace as we got to the beach. We enjoyed a long walk to the other end of the beach, noting two jetties at the northern end, a small and very noisy bar, a cafe called ‘Combination’, multiple small colourful craft pulled above the high water mark, and a stall holder packing up the T shirts embellished with Live Slow and Sail Fast slogans, beach towels and sarongs to tempt the cruise ship guests. There were also high stacks of plush beach lounges, a bar and toilet block to support the cruise shippers. At the southern end of the beach, a chatty American couple who were escaping the harsh winter of Minnesota were relaxing in the shade of the headland rocks and they asked many questions of the skipper about Trilogy and the journey we are on.
Back on board, we had some down time, but were startled when a very persistent loud horn was blasted around 17:30. It turned out that a car ferry was steaming into the jetty and a smallish motor cruiser was loitering in the clearly marked channel. The ferry master took no mercy on the cruiser and there was a flurry of engine revs as the cruiser dodged the much bigger vessel. One little green car was off-loaded, forklifts plied back and forth for half an hour and then the ferry was on its way...and fast!
Meanwhile we settled ourselves for the evening, noting that Ace, the super yacht we’d seen in Port Louis had anchored well off shore. We were in excellent company, especially as the Silver Wind had steamed off into the sunset. A chicken and capsicum dinner by the light of the special little Trilogy lamp, finished the day. The only negative for this beautiful bay was that the salt pan occasionally wafted odourous smells on the light breeze.
We awoke to see another cruise ship sitting off the bay. It was their turn to go through the same routine for their guests. As we walked the beach before the multitude arrived, all the chairs were perfectly lined up, the red carpet was rolled out along the jetty, the bar was stocked with ample supplies and tables were set with napkins and glassware, for a beach ‘picnic’. Several stall holders were hastily setting up at the end of the jetty and while the life rafts were milling around the cruise ship, the advance party of staff were putting the finishing touches together. Another well oiled event to entertain the tourists, but give me the locals version any day!
We didn’t hang around too much longer for obvious reasons and with a course plotted for Charlestown Bay, Canouan Island, we had no sooner got on course than the skipper took a strong liking to a sweeping half moon beach and a bay filled with yachts that he’d spied. After a short chat, we all agreed to investigate. Named Salt Whistle Bay, it was on the northern tip of Mayreau island. There are reefs on both the north and south sides, the south reef considered dangerous because both wind and swells will drive boats onto it, and later as we snorkelled, several large chunks of boats were seen wedged into the reef. We also noted a pile of old concrete mooring blocks that must have all been dragged onto the reef! The whole scene on shore was colourful but the number of charter catamarans trying to squeeze into the bay, made
for some tense and interesting moments and overall, a less than desirable anchorage. On the southern end of the beach shacks offered seafood meals, with Richard’s Last Bar Before the Jungle, taking the prize for best name. We opted for dinner on board, enjoying a pork dish with a bottle of vino in the pleasantly cool saloon.
By the time we awoke next morning and took a look around the bay, many of the cats had left, which was a good thing! The weather was looking a bit threatening and there was a decent surge coming around the headland and creating some roll into the bay. We understand that there is a significant storm off the east coast of the USA and that it is responsible for the current northerly winds we have been experiencing.
We also decided to leave an hour ahead of our plan, and once the anchor was up, we headed further north to St Vincent Island, a distance of 33 NMs. The seas were very flat and almost glassy and with the mainsail hoisted, we motor sailed at an easy 8 knots. The fishing rod was deployed but alas, no success. As we approached the coast of St Vincent we arranged for a pilot to navigate a narrow, variable depth channel on high tide into Blue Lagoon, a pleasant reef enclosed bay. We came alongside at the Blue Lagoon Marina and after tidying everything on deck, we headed ashore to the upstairs Loft marina cafe for some thirst quenching Hairouns and a late light lunch. Recharged, we headed back to Trilogy to get some below deck work done, thankfully in air conditioned comfort as we were feeling the humidity. As we were expecting guests the next day, the port cabin needed to be cleared of the spare part boxes. However, all the spare parts needed to be catalogued before the boxes were put away. It seems that there is never a dull moment in the running of the good ship! Needless to say, Trilogy is performing very well after all the TLC.