Tobago Cays, Troisants Bay and Petit Byahaut Bay
28 March 2018 | Tobago Cays
Ros Brice
Palm Island had been idyllic, but as the pilot had warned, can be a bit rolly through the night. None of us slept well and we felt the urge to leave sooner rather than later. At 09:00 we released the mooring lines and headed for Tobago Cays that had been calling us for days. Just 5 NMs away, we dropped anchor in the cut between Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau, almost exacting where we had been anchored a few weeks ago. This spot offers a degree of protection behind Petit Bateau from the prevailing easterlies. With the anchor nicely dug into sand, we took time out to take in the beauty of the surroundings over a cuppa.
Later in the afternoon, those who felt inclined took the dinghy to visit the turtle sanctuary and beyond to snorkel on the outer reef. Since some effects of the bug was still being felt by the less hearty, it was a chance to recuperate. We had organised with 'Desperado', known to us a Caffa' to collect us at 6pm for our lobster feast on shore. With perfect timing, Caffa arrived and with knives, forks, serviettes, glasses and wine bottle packed up, we went ashore for a quintessential Caribbean experience. As the sun set over aquamarine water, the coconut palms swaying gently overhead and sand between our toes, the platter of BBQ lobsters were served to us al fresco. Dennis was our drinks waiter again and in his quiet way, looked after all our needs. He told us that the lobsters are sourced deep from the ocean floor from around Bequia and Union Islands. It started to concern us that there was an aweful lot of lobsters (at least 100 per night) being consumed every day at this venue. How long will it be sustainable? Once we had our fill, we walked the 5 metres to the beach where Caffa picked us up in his 'taxi' and returned us to our patiently waiting Trilogy.
By now it is Sunday once more. We can barely keep track of the days of the week and we find that the iPhone is the most reliable way of sorting out our confusion! With Easter coming up there was a bit of a planning discussion after breakfast about our movements. That freed up the rest of the day for more activities and as Peter was keen to launch 'dronie' from the highest peak on Petit Bateau (140' high), a shore party was formed. The climb was steep and rather rough, but the view more than compensated once at the top. We were fascinated by a beautiful bird call and after a lot of looking, we found the bird and he sang his song as if performing for us. Dronie was set up and was looking set to go when 'calibration failure' aborted the flight. The 270 degree panoramic view over the magical scene was indescribable. Unfortunately 'the cut' where Trilogy was anchored, was not part of this vista. Peter was keen to recalibrate Dronie and after lunch a second shore party headed back up the peak. The wind had picked up with a small squall passing around us, but he did manage one flight, but the camera did not work! The final activity for the day was a snorkel on the outer reef, tying up to one of several buoys positioned along the reef. The wind was up and the water therefore a bit choppy, but we were rewarded with an array of fish and coral, all in quite shallow but clear and sparkling water. Tobago Cays has delivered in every way.
Late afternoon we lifted the anchor and motored 5NMs to Troisant Bay on the west coast of Mayreau Island, between Saline Bay and Salt Whistle Bay. There were no other yachts in the bay and we appreciated having it all to ourselves. Most yachts head into Salt Whistle Bay, but from previous experience we knew that the swell can really play havoc, especially when it is crowded with yachts and they all start rocking and rolling. We enjoyed the sunset and all the usual evening rituals over a tasty chicken dinner. We headed to bed feeling tired but content.
We had rain overnight and awoke to an overcast morning. It was agreed to spend at least the morning in the bay, with a swim ashore and walk along the lovely beach. In the early morning haze we witnessed a beautiful sight when a schooner with full set of sails unfurled, made its way north, passing astern of Trilogy. With coffees and breakfast finished, the men had a brain storming session about the possible cause of some rust that has appeared in the stainless steel rigging. Meanwhile the girls swam ashore and walked the beach, which has a series of rather attractive burré style bungalows, that are apparently part of a hotel chain, but the burrés are privately owned. A playful dog joined us all when the boys arrived and she was a genuine 'sea dog', expressing her pleasure at being on the beach, digging several sizeable holes to pounce into and then heading into the water to wash off, along with all the usual catch and fetch games. When it came time to leave, she swam out with the boys and had to be given strict instructions that she couldn't come on board!
After lunch a dive party headed off the sou-west headland to see if they could find the wreck of Purina, a 100 year old wreck in 10 metres of water. They did find it but it was a challenge to free dive that far. More swimming in the bay filled up the rest of the afternoon before the sun started to sink. We were joined overnight by another smaller monohull yacht that had a couple and golden retriever on board. The dog was taken by tender ashore to enjoy his land time. We later saw him swim ashore with the couple, another example of a dog who clearly enjoyed sea life.
Away by 9:45 next morning, after all diving in for one last refreshing swim, we set sail north for Petit Byahaut Bay, St Vincent Island. It was a magical broad reach sail, the apparent wind consistent throughout at 18-20 knots. With one reef in the main and the staysail finely tuned, Trilogy made a steady 8-9 knots and relished the 36 NMs sail. Throughout the sail, water making was underway which has become a regular and successful activity. With top ups of the water tanks whenever we're at sea, the need to minimise water usage has made a difference to on board life.
By mid afternoon Trilogy had no sooner anchored in Petit Byahaut Bay than two catamarans joined us in quick succession. One left after a short snorkelling session, but the other, which dropped its anchor in Trilogy's swing room, looked like it was settling for the night. This caused much entertainment if not consternation on board Trilogy as it was clearly in an unsafe position. The sailing rule is that whichever yacht anchors first has the right to stay. We noticed that in response to an uncomfortably close distance between us as both yachts swung, that the other yacht put several fenders out along the gunnel. It became clear that there was an older couple on board and two crew who were meeting their every need. As the sun light was fading and we all felt concerned about what might happen in the night ahead, Steven felt compelled to diplomatically request of the male guest, if he could speak to the skipper. He appeared and when Steven explained that he felt uncomfortable about the yacht's close proximity, the skipper mumbled that he thought Trilogy should have said something sooner! Maybe we should have, but then again, maybe he should have demonstrated a higher level of seamanship! Before we knew it they had departed the bay, which was the best possible outcome!! We were able to settle in peace and having had a snorkel earlier on around the beautiful coral nearby, it was time for evening drinks and a delicious lamb neck casserole from our trusty pressure cooker.