We needed to top the fuel tanks up before leaving Ajaccio and so a bit before 10:00 and after some fresh baguettes had been stowed, we threw off the lines. The fuel dock was in a tight corner adjacent to where we had been berthed and we could see that several vessels were starting to form a queue. This became a very tricky exercise, mostly because more and more boats were coming into the space and no one was willing to make room for vessels trying to leave the fuel wharf. We waited for a small ferry to finally finish and then we slid into the dock, thanks to the dock'n go system, allowing good rotational and sideways movement. When it came to departure, it became obvious that no one wanted to given an inch! The skipper was gesturing to other skippers and the crew were doing their share of gesturing too, and eventually there was sufficient movement for Trilogy to turn and slip through. It seems again that the French egos were to the fore!
We motored 14NMs further south along the beautiful west coast to Cala d'Orzu, a large bay under Cap Muro. The wind was predicted to be picking up, after a superb run of stable weather, on a coast that is typically subject to strong wind and heavy seas. Cala d'Orzu offered reasonable protection from the westerlies, which are the prevailing winds. There were two beaches and once anchored and a cuppa had been had, it was time for a long swim and to explore the rocks that lay between Trilogy and the main beach. While it was calm and an easy swim on the way in, after our long walk along the beach that was filled with sun lovers, the wind had come up and it was a much tougher swim back. The water had become choppy and Trilogy was bouncing around, making it hard to even see her at times. We had to console ourselves with the calories we had burned!
As the wind had really got too strong for comfort, we needed to continue our journey in search of a protected anchorage. We departed around 13:00 and motored 5 NMs to the beautiful little harbour port called Porto Pollo. We anchored off the marina which was for small craft only, and after lunch relaxed for a few hours. As there was a suitable dinghy dock in the marina and Trilogy was tucked away safely out of the wind and swell, we decided to have an evening meal ashore. The skipper had joked that there must be a Michelin restaurant and sure enough there was, called A'Pignoto. We made a reservation for 20:00 and once in our 'finery', we went ashore and found it to be a pretty little town, with a cheerful feel. It sits on a golden beach and has a mix of gently wooded slopes and cultivated hills in the hinterlands. It is alive in summer with tourists and holiday visitors. We walked about half a kilometre to the restaurant that had a lovely deck overlooking the bay. The service and food were first class and although more expensive than our typical restaurant meals, it was all local food and prepared to perfection. We all ordered an entree Gravelax de saumon, granite citron vert, which had a wonderful flavour with melt in your mouth texture. To follow, we chose different fish meals and one pork dish. All the Corsican wines we have tried have been truly delicious and we chose Alzeto, a delicately coloured and flavoured rosé, which complimented the meal perfectly. Our waiter spoke reasonable English, having an English mother, but raised in France. To add to the ambiance, there had been another amazing sunset to feast on...we had been blessed!
Porto Pollo is about 10 kms from the ancient megaliths of Filitosa. From as early as 4000 BC, megalithic monuments to the dead were raised all over Europe and the Mediterranean. Many of them are well known, such as Stonehenge in England and the stone temples and catacombs of Malta, but many sites are not so well known. These range geographically from the Orkneys in the north, through France, the Mediterranean, as far west as the Caucasus and south to Palestine. Megalithic art was widespread and practised by diverse races and religions, though all relate to the veneration of the dead and a belief in the afterworld. Sometime around 3000BC, this megalithic faith reached Corsica and flourished into a potent art form. Filitosa in south west Corsica hinterland, was one of the centres of Corsican megalithic art. Although originally thought to be naïve Greek or Roman work, they are known to be much older than this. The figures stand over a rocky incline in a shaded and wooded valley. The figures themselves stand 2-2.5 metres high. The most famous of these figures is Filitosa V, armed with sword and dagger and wearing a cloak. The face is most compelling: a powerful face with a cruel mouth and piercing eyes. The sculptors of these figures were not just leaving a monument to the dead, but were sculpting dead warriors and leaving a monument to a specific man. Although there is mystery that still surrounds the figures of Filitosa, just like in other places where these megaliths are found, it would seem that it is simply the early expressions of man to venerate the dead and the spirits of the afterworld. Production of the megalithic art ended around 1500BC, with the arrival of the Toreens. This war-like group apparently subdued the statue builders and like all conquerors, set about rearranging the sites to their own preference. Unfortunately time did not permit us to visit this curious and wonderful prehistoric sight.
As the wind and swell had increased by the morning, departed after breakfast and headed across the Golfe de Valinco to Campomoro, which lies on the south side, directly opposite Porto Polo. We motored through 1-2 metre swell and it was quite an uncomfortable ride. There must have been a big storm somewhere in the Med that had stirred things up! As we approached the small village of Campomoro we searched hard for an anchorage at a reasonable depth of water - the deeper the water the larger amount of chain has to be laid. The skipper was also looking for good protection from the swell and we ended up being satisfied with anchoring in 15 metres. We had morning tea and then swam 400 metres to the shore. There were rocks to explore on the way, but the clarity was not good and so we headed into the golden sandy beach, that had a shore break all the way along. There were lots of holiday makers enjoying the beach and we had to weave our way in and out of various ball games being played. We headed back to Trilogy for a late lunch and lazy afternoon. As the swell was predicted to continue until late evening, we settled to stay overnight at the anchorage. We all had another swim and then dinner on board, with a tasty meal called 'Pete's famous pasta' courtesy of Peter....you'll have to ask him for the recipe, as it is a closely guarded secret!