The skipper was keen to get underway and after breakfast we headed off to explore the south coast of Corsica. The swell was subsiding but still 1 metre in height and the winds were from the NE at 4 knots. By the time we had turned around Point de Sentosa, the wind had picked up to a steady 8 knots.The scenery was again very beautiful, particularly the large granite rock formations in the region of Roccapina. The rocks are carved into unusual and fascinating shapes and really lured us to stay a close but safe distance to observe them, being mindful of the many hidden shoals along this stretch.
This is another section of the Corsican coast that is under the protection of the Coastal Conservatory, which ensures that these stunning areas are preserved. The Coastal Conservatory in the early 1980's set about buying sensitive land near the sea, to protect it from real estate speculation. This 30 kms of coastline in the Valinco region between Campomoro and Roccapina will remain largely undeveloped. It offers the perfect combination of fine sandy beaches and rocky headlands and coves.
We anchored in Golfe de Murtoli, a large bay under Pte Latoniccia. As the day progressed, so did the wind! What we thought would be a protected anchorage became quite blasted by the northerly wind and an updated weather report predicted winds reaching 30 knots in the area overnight. At 16:30, we were on the move again and motored a further 8 NMs with the wind strength at 13 knots. By 18:00, Trilogy was nicely anchored in the north east corner of Anse de Capinero (Chevannu), in 7 metres and the skipper felt confident that Trilogy was safe if the prediction of 30 knot winds through the night eventuated. Those who were keen went for a quick swim and we settled into our nightly routine of GNTs, Lamb Navarin for dinner and a Baileys before retiring.
There was a big blow through the night, but probably not as much as 30 knots where we were and the wind whistled through the rigging. It was also Full Moon, which cast its brilliant light across the night sky, so it was a night where Mother Nature let herself be felt. By morning the wind had dropped considerably and after our breakfast and coffee, we all donned the snorkelling gear for a 600 metre swim to the main section of beach, via the rocky foreshore. There were far less people on this isolated stretch of beach and it felt very unspoilt. Behind the sand was a dry salt pan, and we recalled the very smelly salt pans that we had encountered so often in the Caribbean islands. There were a lot of small craft on moorings at one end of the beach, which we presumed were owned by the locals. There were scattered houses tucked away in the low tree covered slopes and it looked to be an idyllic place to have a holiday house. We observed a couple appear from a beach track, head into the water and both swim at least a kilometre to the point and then back - he without flippers and snorkel and she with the gear. Quite an admirable effort! There were water skiers and paddle boarders around us as well, and as always we had to be vigilant in the water for small craft buzzing around at too high a speed. A lovely young Aussie guy, who was crew on a large motor cruiser anchored nearby, called by to have a chat....said he was from 'North Stradi' and he was off to the Caribbean on 1 September!
From Anse de Capinero, we continued south east in search of another protected bay, Anse de Porticcio, in the Golfe de Ventilègne. This is a small gulf and we nudged Trilogy into the north of the bay and anchored in 7 metres. The prevailing westerly wind brings a small swell into this gulf, but as the weather was calm, it promised to be a calm anchorage...and we had it all to ourselves! Right up until dark there were people on the beach and we had a swim before dinner. Next morning we were keen to have another swim and it was beautiful swimming in the cool, clear water. We swam to an aqua blue sandy spot on the shore, along the rocks and came into the tiny golden sand beach that was popular with the locals. We felt a bit like aliens emerging from the depths, as we were definitely identifiable as 'different', but we managed to get a few bonjours, before we departed back into the deeper water, heading straight for Trilogy.
We had made an online résérvation for the port of Bonifacio, which was about one hour of motoring. The coastline was again most interesting along the way, as the rocks displayed Mother Nature's handiwork. As we neared Bonifacio, the rock type completely changed to stratified limestone. This is apparently a geographical anomaly on an island made mostly of magmatic rocks, in particular granite and volcanic rhyolite (as in the Scandola Nature Reserve). We cruised up and down the cliff line, mesmerised by their sheer size, fragility and complete difference in colour and structure to anything else we had so far encountered. Their colour was whitish-grey and their horizontal layers of sedimentation quite obvious. There were old houses built seemingly right up to the cliff edge and a set of steep steps that we built right down to the sea, on a very acute angle, but why?
Bonafacio's harbour is in a calanque on the south west corner of Corsica. It is literally a slit in the limestone cliffs that is difficult to see until you are close up to it. Fortunately the houses of the old town are easily identified and the entrance lies immediately to the west of these. Known as the Calanque de la Catena, it is deep for almost its full length and offers exceptional shelter from the forces of Nature. There is a modern marina for yachts to come stern to into and our résérvation gave us some certainty of a berth, for once!