20 April 2014 | Taiohae
Nuka Hiva, the Marquesas.
We dropped anchor in Taiohae bay on the morning of the 16th of April at around 9.30am after spending several hours of the previous evening laying ahull. We were still managing 1 1/2 kts in the right direction and didn't want to be getting too close before daylight. When I came on watch at 1am we hoisted the staysails and increased our speed to put us at the sentinels for 8.30.
Typically we caught a nice sized Tuna at daybreak on our last day before landfall. We had no hesitation in giving it back to the sea because we were sure looking forward to eating on shore our first night, and so we did after a fair amount of wandering around hungry. It seems our body clocks and Taiohae time didn't match up. That, and the fact the first few places we found after leaving the dinghy dock didn't serve lunch just Dinner kept us on the move till 5pm for the first sitting. Fortunately there was no problem finding a beer at any time of the day so 5 o'clock came round easier than it might have.
I know, I know 5 o'clock for dinner, who would have thought. Nat and I would not usually even be thinking much about what to have by then, but times change and they did on several occasions on the 28 day passage from Mexico.
After a week in Taiohae drinking the beer, seeing the sights and eating out almost everyday we were ready to be moving again. Taiohae is a beautiful bay and the people are lovely.
Eenie meenie Miny mo. changed our minds several times as to which way we were turning when we left. After finally settling on a clockwise trip around Nuka Hiva (turning right) we hauled anchor. With the anchor nearly off the bottom we spotted a familiar looking boat heading in, One of the ones we had been keeping an eye out for, "Lady Carolina". They came straight over to say g'day and fill us in on the fleets movements. It seems that "Exodus" "True Blue V" and Charra had all come over to see us in Controlleur as that is where I had said we were going originally
As we left Taiohae we had told "Lady Carolina" we were turning right, and that had still been our intention until we got to the Sentinels and had a look at the sea state. It looked good for a quick beat to windward. So after changing our minds so many times in the previous week what harm could one more flip do. Left it was. We snuck in to Controlleur under the cover of a rain squall and were almost anchored before Craig from "True Blue V"spotted us. Of course it was drinks on Sara almost immediately with a potluck on Exodus arranged for the following night after a walk to the Cascade. It was really great to catch up with some of our Sea of Cortez cruising friends in such a distant and scenic location. Thanks guys. Oh , and of course "Lady Carolina" made it around for the potluck also after a quick Internet fix in Taiohae.
Next stop Daniels bay. Now this is really one Bay that you should not miss. We nearly did though due to the tricky entrance. Nothing tricky about it with the right weather conditions and or an engine. Without the engine though you are sailing towards a lee shore before rounding into the bay. Piece of cake for us on the day in the end as we had perfect conditions.
We had lunch at one of the locals houses which was sensational, he was a very animated and loud character with Tattoo's down one side of his face. His name was something like Tahitini. Tahitini's wife cooked freshwater prawns they had caught that morning, these were accompanied with Taro, breadfruit and fried banana all in coconut milk. Excellent excellent, finished off with fresh coconut milk drink straight from the shell via a straw. All the produce was fresh from their garden, Nat even came away with ginger root and Rosemary.
We were ready to leave after 4 or 5 days when we heard on the grapevine that Sally was heading in. Oh well another couple of days won't hurt. We had several walks to the waterfall which was well worth going the last 10m to see the beautiful plunge pool and amphitheatre at the base. You wouldn't know it was there if you didn't swim in past the two big guardian rocks.the water was rather cold which we all loved, although it did give Sally a few problems with feeling very faint and nearly blacking out when we got out of the water. None of us was volunteering to carry her so we fed her up on nuts and chocolate and waited for her to get a head of steam up. After that she was right as rain for the walk back out. May have just been a ploy I think to see who had chocolate.
On a sad note, for me anyway, Nat has decide to fly home from here. The tickets are booked she's on her way home to work. We are Already looking forward to coming back here together on "True Companion". Safe travels Babe and don't forget to send money.
Farewell Nuka Hiva, you too of course Babe.