True North powered through some large ocean swells on her way to Falmouth Harbor in the company of several other boats but we knew the anchorage was large. We entered the channel to see plenty of boats, of all kinds and incredibly, of all sizes including super yachts.

After so many places and miles, it is still a bit stress inducing to enter a harbor or marina for the very first time. There are so many unknowns, but reading the guide books on the anchorages helps give some clues as to where best to anchor. In Falmouth, the guides said the "best" anchoring spot was pigeon beach which happened to be a quick turn to our right (starboard). We saw an opening between two boats to drop the hook. But our anchor placement wasn't optimal in the blustery conditions, too close to a fellow boat, so we tried again. Second time was better but the wind had our chain stretched out towards a reef behind us, just too close for comfort. So taking a breath and another look around, we decided to move again to a completely different spot, more towards mid-harbor. All went well, but as the wind grew we noticed the very large yacht anchored next to us, swung in a broad arch, over our anchor and in front of us. We assessed that we'd be ok, but we spent an uncomfortable night until they left the next morning. Eventually we would re-anchor yet a fourth time moving much closer to town as the anchorage emptied, True North all by her lonesome in the back of the bay. Mike took care of customs and declared the experience one of the most positive he's had thus far.

English and Falmouth harbors have a small bit of land between the two but the towns meld into one. This is a storied sailing community, with the historical Nelson's Dockyard located here, which tended to the British fleet of old in the 1700's. The Dockyard is now part museum, part active marina with a hotel, shops, restaurants, and hiking trails. Mega yachts line the docks, some you can view up close, others are behind security gates. I thought the area would feel pretentious but the vibe was laid back Caribbean chill. The actual town of Falmouth was small, clean and simple with local shops, farmers selling their goods on the roadside.

Amazingly, at the Dockyard marina there were large rowing boats who had crossed the ocean and were arriving in the coming days. From singles to teams of five, they had departed the Canary Islands and rowed to Antigua, the first boat arriving after 37 days, fundraising for charity! And we thought 21 days was long. We watched as congratulations were given to two boats that had recently arrived after 49 days at sea in those tiny machines. We saw the tightly bundled packages of food stacked near the boats and marveled where they slept, ate...in two small compartments on each end of the boat. Incredible!

Included in Antiguan clearance fees is access to Nelson's Dockyard so we visited the museum multiple times and bought treats from the bakery dating back in time. We located the hiking trail leading from English Harbor to Pigeon beach passing old fort batteries, some near the entrance and some high on the hillside. Goats of all sizes roamed near the trail and we tried to sooth a little one who was bleating loudly to find his mom as we approached. Thirsty and hungry we ate at a very local restaurant. But we had to chuckle when we tried to pay with US dollars, as the elderly woman preferred, but then rejected because the dollars were not crisp enough. The next morning a little boat swung by with a flag advertising fresh pastries, how convenient!

After four days, we sailed towards Jolly Harbor, Antigua for a night at anchor outside the harbor. The anchorage was picturesque, shallow but sandy, broad with tons of room for boats. The dinghy ride into harbor was short and well protected and the area surprised us as being much more active. Condos lined the entry channel, many with boats parked outside their patios. The largest grocery store since Las Palmas was near the large dinghy dock and a well stocked chandlery was a short walk away. There we found a full size paddle-board as the previously purchased one is better suited to my size. We spent a quiet night at anchor, then left at first light for Barbuda.