Farewell to New Caledonia
23 September 2014 | Noumea
Barbara & Simon
As predicted, we walked to the market, getting ashore about 6.30am and then walking the 6km along the road. It was a beautiful, clear sky day and an easy walk. However, we realised as soon as we got to the market, that we should have got up much earlier, as all that was left was an assortment of limp greens. We acquired some under-ripe tomatoes, some of which are still green 10 days later, and Simon reached for a bag of carrots, only to have them snatched from under his nose!
Fortunately, there was a small shop nearby, and for a small fortune, we were able to get some carrots, onions and potatoes. Vao is a pretty village, dominated by a large church, with tree lined streets and beaches at the bottom of the hill. By the time we left, it was very hot, so we happily accepted a lift. We were thinking that our French was actually OK, but any thoughts of passing as natives, were soon dashed as we tried to keep up with the conversation and questions being fired at us by the young couple who gave us a lift. However, smiles and gesticulations, saved us the 6km walk in the heat of the day. We got back to the boat and decided to head round to a small anchorage we had spied while on the summit of Pic Nga. Leaving the others, we motored 3nm to Ilot Aventure, a beautiful spot and spent a quiet and peaceful night, with a gentle roll, lulling us to sleep. Another stunning morning and we set off for Baie Uameo. Again, the distance was short, but the route required us to sail into uncharted waters and go across a marked reef. Not usually known for taking risks, this made for an exciting morning, with me in the rigging calling directions to avoid the coral heads and reefs and Simon, steering carefully, trying to make the boat respond to my sudden demands. However, all was fine and once again entering surveyed waters, we relaxed slightly and began taking pics. I looked down from the rigging, gazing in amazement at how clear the coral was under the boat. My enquiry regarding the depth was met with a run of expletives, in the middle of which I interpreted that the depth under the keel was only 20cm. However, we were soon back in a comfy 4m and then safely at anchor. The bay was large, with white sand and a large looking, but deserted hotel in the middle. Simon quickly discovered that he could get their wifi (not password protected) from the boat!
We spent three nights there. One day was boat maintenance, a morning with the sewing machine and a few sail and sail cover repairs, some bottom cleaning (the new anti-foul we used just doesn’t seem to be effective) and fixing bits of line etc. One day we walked 20km, visiting 2 caves. The first, le Grotte de la Troisieme, was stunning, huge stalactites and mites, curtains and amazing colours. There was a deep pool at the bottom, where you could swim and apparently great cave diving (if you are in to squeezing through pitch black caves under water). Simon spent a while taking photos and got some really great shots. We then walked to the Grottes de la Reine Hortense, which was very different, but beautiful…a huge walk in cave, surrounded by lush rain forest. The walking was all on beautiful tar sealed roads, with about 10 cars passing us on the 20km and most of them offering us lifts!
We then sailed up the coast to Baie de Gadji. It was stunning, with turquoise and blue water, white sand beaches and limestone islands of all shapes and sizes. We aanchored in shallow sand and had a peaceful night, just us, the turtles and a large ray!
The next morning, we again picked our way through the reefs, through the Passe de Uapan and then round the coast in a clockwise direction, completing a circumnavigation of Isle des Pins. It was a stunning day, and although we had to motor sail for a short bit, we enjoyed some cracking sailing. We arrived back in Baie de Kuto in the afternoon and rejoined some of friends. The day after, we explored the old prison ruins nearby. Although quite overgrown, you are free to walk in and around the buildings, several of which felt like they might crumble down on your head at any moment. Many of the prisoners kept here were political prisoners. The conditions they had to endure, both on the prison ships from France and then in these ghastly buildings, doesn’t bear thinking about. Little wonder, most returned to France when later pardoned. It’s strange how buildings can make you feel sometimes. It certainly made me shiver even though it was a hot and sunny day!
Another great sail to Anse Majic the following day. Again, we climbed to the lighthouse and saw more whales through the binoculars and did a lovely walk along the ridge to look into Port Boise, the first stop we made on our way in.
We left Anse Majic and had another fantastic sail to Ilot Amedee. The sailing is great, as you are inside the lagoon, which gives flat seas, but there is normally plenty of wind. Tuarangi loves it. Ilot Amedee is a beautiful white sandy island, with the tallest lighthouse in New Caledonia. It was built in France and shipped out in pieces to be reconstructed on the island. We walked round the island, being careful to avoid the many sea snakes, heading up the beach. Although extremely venomous, they have tiny mouths and you would have to pick one up, ram your pinkie down its throat and get it angry, before it would bite you. They are very distinctive, yellow and black stripes and looked incredible on the sand and in the water. We also saw crabs with their eyes up in stalks, scurrying into their holes on the beach. From the anchorage, we saw a humpback whale breeching, with the accompanying splash as he fell back into the water over and over again. It’s just like being in an Attenborough documentary!
We spent a couple of nights there, snorkeling mainly to clean the bottom of the boat, but watching all the fish life including the ones which attach themselves to you via a pad on their heads. Some of these are over 1m long, so I kept swimming fast so they would try to adhere to me! There were also a fair number of sharks around, so constant vigilance (as I am a scardy cat!).
Then back to Noumea, where we caught up with friends Sandy and Rankin on ‘Gypsea Heart’. We also caught up with our friends from Nelson, Scott and Jen, who were over on holiday for a week. They were spending a day at Ilot Amedee, and so gave us their apartment key, so we were able to make good use of their washing machine, as well as enjoying comfy chairs! When they came back, we joined then for dinner, along with their friends from Auckland.
We met up again the next day, taking a bus to the Botanical Gardens. The driver forgot to tell us when to get off and we ended up going to the end of the route and then back, a total of 1.5hrs! We did get to see the ‘other’ side of Noumea, which was very interesting. The botanics was fun, although none of us like to see birds in cages, especially birds of prey. We had a fun time and said our farewells, thanking Scott and Jen for bringing treats (Pics peanut butter, duty free gin and treats from Heather and Mike, as well as 1.5kg of oats, as they are over $10 a kilo here!)
We got back to our boat and our friends Michael and Barbara on Astarte, had arrived on the berth next to us, so in between making preparations for heading to Australia, we have had some good times with them. We have certainly enjoyed the cakes, pastries and bread in Noumea as well as the fine cheeses, salamis and wines. Time to head to Australia…our waistlines are expanding and our bank balances diminishing. A sea passage is a good cure for both! We leave today for Bundaberg, hoping to arrive around Monday/ Tuesday. Thanks again to Heather and Mike for blogging/ reporting the weather/ parenting our kids/ being there every step of the way and sending Jelly Babies.