We spent a total of nine nights in Twofold Bay, six on the Eden side and three at East Boyd Bay. We did some good walks around the area, had lunch ashore a couple of times in our favourite café ‘Sprout’, which not only did good coffee and yummy food, but also sold local organic produce, which varied depending on the suppliers. We liked Eden…it had everything you needed in a small area and the locals and other yachties were very friendly. Once again, we were all endlessly discussing the weather and possible options for departure south and north. We finally decided and so at 4am on Wednesday 10th, we lifted the anchor, hoisted the sails and headed out, in the pouring rain. For the first time in I don’t know how long, we had full waterproofs and wellies on. It was a pretty uncomfortable day that turned into a pretty grotty night, with strong winds and very lumpy sea which was not conducive to getting much sleep However, Tuarangi again performed superbly, ploughing on through the night, with a snug sail plan and across the infamous Bass Straight. The wind steering was also steady, requiring no changes overnight. The morning saw the rain stopping and the sun coming out and we decided to head for Flinders Island. A wee tweak to the windsteering and we changed course, having a great sail into Killiecrankie Bay. The islands are incredibly Scottish, with large lumps of rock protruding through salt burned grass. We were happy to drop the anchor, have some dinner and fall into bed, even though it was broad daylight! It is noticeably lighter now we are so far south.
The next day was warm and sunny and we motor sailed down to Badger Island, where we anchored in Tom’s Bay. It is a beautiful anchorage, with crystal clear water and distant mountain skylines, which reminded us of Torridon or Skye. As we anchored, the sound of skylarks filled the air. We decided to have a go at fishing and the water was so clear, you could easily see the many squid who wanted to have a go at the bait. Simon changed to a squid jig and soon landed a couple of squid, getting a good spraying in the process! Salt and pepper calamari for dinner.
In order to make good use of the tides, we had a reasonably early start the next day, sailing down through Banks Straight in very benign conditions. We had a lovely sail during the day and the early evening, but the forecast drop in the wind never arrived and in fact it increased. A couple of sail plan changes, a 1am gybe and another rough and windy night, saw us surfing into Wineglass Bay on the Freycinet Peninsula at 5.30am. It was a bit rolly, but we dropped the anchor and went straight to bed. Around lunchtime, we moved to the other side of the bay as the wind was coming round. Wineglass Bay is stunning, A white sandy beach with mountains at either end. We had a lovely walk along the beach, the following morning, the white sand squeaking under foot and the breaking waves crashing on the shore.
However, more changes in the weather were forecast (there seems to be a lot of this in Tasmania!), so we hauled the anchor and again headed south. The coastline was incredible, with pillars and huge boulders, caves and waterfalls. We headed through the Schuten Passage and had one of the nicest sails we have had the whole trip. Full sail, on a lovely close reach, with Tuarangi in her happy place, the sun shining and ever changing scenery to look at. Lots of dolphins, albatross and rafts of shearwaters and now and again, a little penguin. We watched the log go past 6000nm and the latitude cross below 40 degrees and almost felt at home! Certainly now we are experiencing weather and not climate. Gybing round the headland, we had a perfect sail up to Triabunna, where we anchored in the early evening, along with a few other boats ahead of the next front coming through.
This morning, we rowed to the jetty and walked up to the township of Triabunna. A small fishing town, we found a laundry at a campground, a nice café for some breakfast, small shops and a very informative Information Centre. Here we also purchased our National Park Passes, which we have to have before going ashore in such places as Wineglass Bay (oops!). The lady in the information Centre couldn’t get her head around the fact we didn’t have a car, but eventually settled on backpackers passes. With the wind forecast to get up, we were back on the boat for lunchtime and boy did the wind get up! It was really hot (30 degrees+) and sunny but the wind was (and still is!) gusting around 45 knts. The forecast thunder rumbled away in the distance and we got about 10 drops of rain, but we are now awaiting a predicted shift in the wind to move across to the other side of the bay, but no sign of it yet…just the same wind howling through the rigging.
We hope to head to Maria Island tomorrow (once the wind settles) and explore the historic sites as well as enjoying the walks on this island National Park (legally now, as we are card carrying members!).