Octopus drying in Lipso

Here we are anchored at Patmos Island, the northern most island of the Dodecanese. The sky is grey and the temperature cool, sightseeing in the drizzle doesn’t appeal and no reading in the sun to distract me from catching up on the blog.

The Greek Dodecanese islands stretch from Patmos to Rhodos in the south, within sight of and sometimes close to touching distance down the Turkish coast. At Rhodos we managed to tie up on the Mandraki wall for the surprising cost of only 8 Euros a night a big difference to the 74 Euro night at Marmaris. Our berth was within metres of where the right foot of the Colossus of Rhodos was possibly planted as he straddled the harbor entrance. The Colossus is of course long gone and in place on either side of the Mandraki entrance is a column with what looks to me like a deer on top of each. If the Colossus was as huge and fierce looking as the postcards portray then the present columns are quite a letdown. The wind blew while at Rhodos and kept yachts in harbor but the cruise ships kept arriving, the passengers keeping the town humming. We wandered the cobbled town, walked up the Street of Knights, peered into courtyards with black and white pebble designs surrounded by potted geraniums and red bougainvillea, left the souvenir shops to the cruise passengers and did some mundane grocery shopping. Mind you we get more thrills out of finding nice bacon and well priced beer than shopping for dust gatherers.

After 2 nights at Rhodos, the wind had died and with no berth available for another night we left for Symi , just over 20 miles north. We had hoped there was enough wind left to be able to sail most of the way, there was wind but right on the nose and then it died off and that seems to have been the story from there to here…..a little sailing and much motoring. Still we turn West soon so hopefully more sailing and less motoring.

At Rhodos we visited all the proper authorities and became legally entered into Greece and the EU. Last year when we visited Symi we were still Turkish and felt a little guilty when we saw officials wandering the streets of Symi town. This time we could relax , especially as the island was brimming with officials of all kinds even the Deputy Prime Minister of Greece was walking the streets of Symi Town. They were all there to take part in a ceremony and parade commemorating the signing of peace at the end of WW2. We stood in the sun on the edge of the lovely harbor in Symi waiting for it all to begin. The little school kids giggled and fought while they waited, the teens giggled and flirted, the army band stood straight and tall, only moving to fish out ringing phones, the traditionally dressed adults looked hot. Eventually the rather large Deputy PM, officials and numerous bearded priests arrived from church, more prayers and then the parade started. One kid lost his shoe and the teenage girls found marching in their tight skirts and shiny new high heels a little difficult on the cobbles, Brian and Alan were heard to comment that school uniforms weren’t like that in their day! One member of the army band got left behind as he had obviously found the long wait too long and had ducked off to use the amenities in a nearby restaurant. To his dismay just as he stepped out the door , the band marched past with the conductor giving him a direct order with his baton to GO AWAY. I suspect some heavy duties came his way the next day. We had had enough too and wandered off in the opposite direction for a quiet lunch in a shady café.

Symi is a lovely place, the long narrow harbor is surrounded on both sides by hills covered in lovely pastel coloured neo classical houses . Dotted amongst them are houses that need renovation. While waiting for the parade we spotted an Australian flag flying from a balcony above us. Gary picked us out from the crowd as being from down under… mainly from Brian’s hat that has New Zealand written across the peak! Gary and his wife spent part of the year in Symi and had renovated their house. He invited us up, so after lunch we climbed the white steps to see the view and his lovely house. If you go to www.symihouseforsale.com you too can see his view and the lovely harbor of Symi. If you happen to buy it, tell him we sent you.

The next day we got the bus down the island to Panormitis to visit the Monastery of Archangel Michael of Panormiti. The bus took us along high scenic mountain roads and windy, don’t look down roads to the picturesque small bay which is dominated by the large monastery. The paintings in the church reminded us of all the churches we visited in Bulgaria.

From Symi we decided that Bozburun, one of our favourite Turkish places, just 10 miles away deserved another visit. A night there, a good Turkish dinner and then we headed for Nisos Kos (Greece). Although the weather forecast was for strong NW winds, so the anchorage at Kos would be no good. We decided to head across to Turkey again, anchoring in a breezy 20 knots. The bay was nothing special and Kos marina was just across the straight. The next morning we said to hell with the expense let’s go and sit the windy weather out in the marina and see Kos. A quick sail across , 7knots just with the genoa up , and we were snug in Kos marina by lunch time. The charges weren’t too bad either, 38 Euro a night, with the best marina facilities we have ever had. The following day the four of us piled into a small rental car and did an Island tour , taking many photos of the little blue and white churches sprinkled over the hills and valleys. We had lunch at Mastihari on the north coast where the chilly wind kept the sun loungers empty and the kite surfers flying. At another Crusader castle ruins we parked next to a grazing flock of goats. A 100 goats with bells on….the noise!! I don’t know how they heard themselves think. The shepherd sat on the entry steps to stop the goats going inside. They probably could smell all the delicious weeds and flowers that were growing amongst the ruins. The castle had once been looked after as a tourist attraction, but had now been abandoned the ticket office was in disrepair and poppies, thistles and yellow daisies had over taken the pathways. Another cut back due to the Greek money problems, perhaps.

Brian and Marion left us at Kos to return to Turkey, Bodrum on to Istanbul then NZ. We had been together for 7 weeks, 3 of which we had spent on Tuatara from Finike to Kos. We had had a great time together although some warmer weather and some more sailing would have made things even better. Alan and I had enjoyed having visitors from home, there were no brotherly arguments , although there was some reminiscing of childhood mischief. We left them at the ferry and went back to Tuatara, where Alan checked out our out of sorts alternator and found it needed new brushes. Now why little solid carbon sticks are called brushes is beyond me. Anyway that necessitated a visit back into Turkey as Bodrum not Kos would have what we needed. So whether they liked it or not Brian and Marion had our company for another day as we anchored near their hotel. We also caught up again with Bruce and Lesley on Midi and the Largo Stars. Both boats had got to know each other in anchorages between Marmaris and Bodrum. Ten New Zealanders had a great dinner out in Bodrum before we once again went our separate ways.

This time it was truly farewell to Turkey from us, the elastic band keeping us close to Turkey snapped as we headed north and slightly west to the Greek Island of Leros. Leros, the books say is mainly visited by homegrown tourists, foreigners head more for the bright lights of places like Mykonos and Rhodes. We have been lucky so far as we are visiting before the official start of the tourist season, 1st of June, there seems to be very few tourist of any kind yet, a few yachts in anchorages giving plenty of swinging and mooring space. At Leros , the owners of Aloni Taverna in Xirokambos were still putting the last brush loads of white wash on the rock wall, the night we went for dinner he had just repainted the name on the wall, in blue of course. Everywhere the houses and tavernas have had their pre summer spruce up of white wash and blue trim. Although the churches there have red roofs. During the Italian occupation of these islands the locals painted everything blue, the Greek colours, just to annoy their occupiers. There was a large Italian naval base at Lakki the main port of Leros, Mussolini also had a large villa built there which is now a mental institution. Apparently Mussolini liked the art deco style and had many buildings built in that style especially at Lakki, some of which have been or are now being restored.

Alastair and Vivienne, (Largo Star) caught up with us for one day in Leros, we had a nice day wandering Platano and lunching at Ay Marina, enjoying the ambiance of a Greek Island before the summer rush. Our last day with the Largos as we fondly call them, we have been travelling on and off with them for nearly 18 months, we first met in Rebak marina in 2008 or should I say we met Largo Star first, Alastair and Vivienne were off doing their other favourite thing, walking in Nepal. They left next morning to return to Turkey. We headed north past the magnificent Venetian castle high on the hill above Platano and on to the island of Lipso. Another little Dodecanese island, laid back, pretty town and a free tie up on the town wharf. We do like these islands of the Dodecanese, just as we had imagined Greek islands to be. Rhodos and Kos are always busy, up to 100,000 tourists a day go to Kos during the high season, according to the rental car man. But these smaller islands are very appealing.

The colour of the church roofs on Lipso are blue again, barely a population of 700 and yet there must be a chapel or church for every family. Without too much effort Alan took a photo which had 5 blue and white churches in it. The last touches of paint are being applied to homes and tavernas at Lipso ,some are already open for business , but some look shut up for good, plywood nailed over windows. I guess the Greek monetary problems have a long ranging affect. There are also many half built houses and apartment complexes on sea view hillsides. Must be some bargains out there. The thought of spending part of a year on one of these islands and part in NZ seems pretty appealing. This is the first time since leaving NZ that we have found an area we have thought we could share our time with NZ. Have to buy some lotto tickets whenever we get home!!!

Yesterday after we anchored here at Grikou, Patmos, the clear blue water looked inviting enough for a swim, that is until I dipped my toe…..still too cold. Alan braved the cool water, which was just as well as he found a string bag on our propeller. More plastic swimming the Med than fish!! The traditional Greek fish taverna is a very costly place to eat these days. One menu had fish at 45Euro a kilo. On second thoughts it will have to be a very big lotto win.