Telaga Harbour
Langkawi Is
Malaysia
2nd Dec 2007
6deg .21N 99deg.40E

Blue skies, white clouds, not a grey cloud in sight, thunder and lightening are now a distant memory here in Langkawi. The blue haze of our first few days here has been chased away by a brisk pleasantly cool breeze.

The peace of the area is shattered by fighter jets screaming overhead, helicopters with men swinging below landing nearby and the distant thud of military hardware. No we are not in the middle of a war zone, LIMA, the annual air and marine show has begun. Not open to the public for a few days yet, first of all the big boys come to buy for armies, country and private. There has been an increase of large sleek luxurious super yachts in the area in the last few days. A coincidence? May be not!

We left Georgetown, Penang 10 days ago to sail to Langkawi Island. As we motored out of the Penang harbour we looked into the distance, there as far as the eye could see were fishermen with their flags spread across the bay. After maneuvering around a few we got into the channel, no nets allowed, but they pushed the limits, flags straying into the channel leaving very little room for us and the two freighters that passed us. As soon as the ships had gone the fishermen zipped in and set their nets virtually across the channel, they must have had the shipping program to know there were no more ships coming. The small fishing boats then gave way to slightly bigger trawlers, one skipper waving to tell us we were too close to the netting streaming out hundreds of metres behind him. Those trawlers passed, then came the big guys hauling huge nets in on wide arms, about 20 of these in close formation, the fish don't have a chance. Eventually 30 miles out of Penang we lost the fisherman and virtually had the sea to ourselves, a couple of yachts ahead remaining just in view.

There was a good sailing breeze, best for a long time but just our luck it gradually changed to a head wind so back on came the motor. Talitha sailed into the gorgeous southern islands, anchoring at Palau Dayang Bunting just before sunset. We spent 3 peaceful nights there, it was great to be on the anchor again with a nice breeze coming through the boat. We wandered around Princess Lake, a fresh water lake just inshore from the beach. Tourist boats whizzed in and out for most of the day bringing holiday makers for a swim, tourists in flimsy bikinis mixed with Muslim families, the woman swimming fully clothed including their head scarf. Legend has it that the lake was bestowed with fertility powers by a Celestial princess. There were quite a number of monkeys around so maybe there is some truth to the legend!!

The last 3 cans of beer drunk, fresh food needed we headed for Kuah the main town on Langkawi. 2 days there stocking up on food, beer, a few restaurant meals then around here to Telaga to catch up with friends, swim and attack some boat jobs.

Langkawi the most northern Malaysian island on the western coast has good marinas, some lovely anchorages and is duty free. Paradise found for many cruisers, some stay here for years. The climate is good, living is cheap, an easy place to stay. For a few, their yachts have become a home in Langkawi not a floating home used to explore new anchorages, cultures and countries. The condition of some yachts reflect the loss of enthusiasm by their owners. However the majority of cruisers spend days or months here before moving on to Phuket, many sailing between the two areas on the visa/ duty free run. Langkawi is the best place to top up the drinking supplies, beer 1RM or $NZ0.41c per can, good NZ or Aussie wine from 18RM, $NZ7.50 a bottle. Diesel is also cheap, $NZ0.66c a litre today.

The devastation of the tsunami is not physically evident, marinas have been rebuilt, resorts are fully functioning, tourists fill the duty free shops in Kuah. Presently the school holidays are bringing an influx of local tourists. Malaysian families' enjoying all Langkawi has to offer. From our anchorage outside Telaga Marina we look up to the cable car traveling between two high peaks, we were to take a ride 2 days ago but the strong wind which had chased away the haze had also stopped the cable car. We will wait now to share the experience with Andrew and Gemma when they arrive.

Last night we had the final dinner for the Indonesian/Malaysian rally. Just over 4 months ago we left Darwin, so many places seen, people met and cultures experienced, friends made. Less than half the yachts that started out were here last night, the rest spread out between Phuket, Singapore and Sebana Cove, some have already returned to Australia, but we had a great night. The food was fantastic, beautiful dancers and entertainers. A good finish or may be it's a beginning of another part of the adventure.

We are looking forward to Andrew and Gemma arriving early December then we are off to Phuket for Christmas. They leave us Boxing Day to wander through SE Asia towards Europe. We haven't made up our minds yet where to go in 2008. Flip a coin, perhaps.