Cairns to Flinders Islands. 23 June , 2009.

Photo Of Lizard Is Anchorage from Cooks Lookout climb.

We are anchored at the Flinders Island group at 14deg 11'S and 144deg 14E , we are starting to feel a little isolated. Yesterday we left Lizard Island the last place with any sizable group of people before we get to Darwin. A trawler crept into the anchorage late last night, there is always one or two trawlers around. Two more arrived this morning, I guess for their daily sleep, sleep all day fish all night. Not a life to be envied.

On our last night in Cairns we had an enjoyable visit from Neville and Pauline Coop with their delightful granddaughter Lily. They gave us a nice selection of Poplars wine from Coonawarra to add to our wine cupboard. So next morning, Tuatara, replenished with fresh food and drink , left Cairns headed for Lizard Is. Three quick day sails, each day in 20-25knot SE winds. This time Lizard Is was bathed in sunshine, still a little windy, but now we could see why every one we met said, "you must go to Lizard Is (Leeezard if you're aussie ), its lovely". In 2007 Lizard was very windy, and we didn't see the sun for 3 days. We wondered what was so special. This time the Blue Lagoon was sapphire blue and the sands glistening white in the bright sun.

We decided this was our last chance to climb up to Cooks lookout, a must do when on Lizard. Captain Cook was desperate for a way through the outer reef to the open ocean. He climbed the highest peak on Lizard and could see an opening in the reef, now called Cooks passage. The thing is though he tried to get out there, but was beaten back by the rough sea, he obviously chose the wrong weather window. The day we looked out to Cooks passage the sea was flat no white water. The views, south to Cape Flattery , the reefs we had sailed past, north to the Howick Is group which we were to sail past the next day, east to the outer reef and west to the white sand dunes on the mainland, were worth the huffing and puffing up the steep hot climb to see. On the climb down we saw two big Lizards, so the Island had fulfilled our expectations this time, good weather, great views and lizards.

The anchorage at Lizard Is is a busy place, yachts, motor launches and Super yachts coming and going. Early morning the overnight sailors arrive and late afternoon the day hoppers arrive. To go north, all, except the Super yachts leave early in the morning, how early depends on where you want to end up. Flinders Islands are 85 miles away, our choice, which meant a 4.30 am start. Past the Howick group, Barrow Point, Cape Melville then across to Flinders to the anchorage at Stanley Is. The wind died for a while after Barrow Point just as a New Zealand navy frigate crossed our bow going south. Alan called them for a chat, 2 NZ vessels in this isolated place. They had been in Darwin not sure where they were heading to next. The radio operator wished us good winds and they were soon out of sight. The wind did gradually increase and as we rounded Cape Melville we figured out we could get anchored with 30 min to spare before sunset. With a little extra help from the motor for the last hour we anchored in time to enjoy the golden sunset. The one thing about the Aussies, especially in the north, they know how to put on spectacular sunsets.

No other boats in sight, the red rocks ashore glowed in the sunset, the orange clouds turned to pink as the suns rays disappeared, the silence disturbed briefly by the buzzy bee sound of a light plane. No twilight here, like a flick of a switch stars sprinkle and sparkle across the purple black sky. Here now it seems we could be the only people left in the world, that is until we turn on our little radio, even with a broken aerial it keeps us in touch with the world. ABC radio seems to get through where ever we are, although here in the Flinders the annoying sea shell fuzz is impossible to get rid of. ABC have some interesting programs, Macca on Sunday morning, obviously a long time favourite Sunday morning institution, takes his show all around Australia. He has a great variety of topics and interviews but at other times I am relieved to hear a woman's voice when I switch on as I am pretty sure the topic wont be Rugby league! At night or the weekend (except Macca) there are interminable programs involving 2 or more men discussing league or the misdemeanors of league players and coaches. This week was finding excuses or not for Brad Fittler's drunken escapade and how many times can the State of Origin be dissected. The news is good, mostly Australian of course, except for the Iran election and its aftermath nothing else seems to be happening outside Australia. I have heard 4 bits of NZ news, the All Blacks squeaked home against the French in the second test, a French player got beaten up in Wellington, a man has been arrested for deliberately spreading HIV, and that a million Australian tourists have visited NZ in the last year. Some good some bad, hope it doesn't put the potential tourists off for next year.

This afternoon we will leave for Portland Roads an over night sail, a days rest then another overnighter to Albany passage, the tidal currents there dictate the timing of our arrivals over the next few days. We will tick off a few more capes on the way to Albany passage and the big one, Cape York