You know you have been here too long.........
29 December 2020 | Cook's Bay Moorea
Russ Whitford
We sailed our last passage in French Polynesia the day after Christmas. We usually make passages over 70 miles at night. We leave at dusk. If it is a fast sail we arrive at dawn. If it's slow, we still arrive in the morning with plenty of light. Anchorages are full of reefs and other hazards. It can be very dangerous entering a lagoon without good light. Even a passing cloud can cause anxious moments.
Leaving at the butt crack of dawn runs the risk of arriving at our anchorage in the dark. But we were sailing from Huahine to Moorea and headed for Cook's Bay. Cook's Bay is huge and boats anchor near the end of the bay in 50 feet of water. The bottom is mud so anchors hold well and we don't run the risk of anchoring in coral, something we scrupulously avoid!
We left Huahine at 5:30 and completed the 80 mile passage at 6:30 PM. It was pretty dark when we arrived. No problem, we anchored away from other boats ready for a good night's sleep. It wasn't a great passage, wind was very light so we motor/sailed the entire way. This is not how we like to go sailing but we arrived and used about eight gallons of diesel. Not bad for moving a 24,000 pound boat.
A strange coolness met us when we entered Cook's Bay. This is the summer season in French Polynesia. Temperatures are still quite comfortable except in the mid-day sun. Even then, it is rarely over 85F, cooling down to high 70's at night. Cook's Bay was completely calm. When we arrived near the foot of the bay, we felt a cool breeze. It actually felt chilly. We have been here three nights and every night after dusk, we get that refreshing breeze.
Seems there are katabatic winds that flow down from the cool mountains. We even got out the fuzzy, purple blanket!
And you know you have been here awhile when you wake up in the morning and you know all the boats anchored around you. Sure feels like home.