We left Big Sand Cay about noon. There were two other boats there that had come in during the night and both had come from the South, where we are headed. We saw lots of whales on our departure. One was cruising, for food, in the relatively shallow water (25 feet) on the shelf near the island. The others were in deeper water (1000 feet+) and were "tail slapping". You could see then on the horizon. Huge tails rose in the air and then slammed down on the water sending spray high in the air. We have left most of the shallow "Banks" cruising behind now and will only see shallow water when entering ports. The Bahamas and Caicos Banks are known for their shallow waters. This evening at sunset I experienced a cruiser moment. We were about 30 miles out of Big Sand Cay and 45 miles away from Luperon. I had just watched a nice green flash as the sun went down. We were riding up and over gentle swells of about 4 feet with a 12-15 second interval at about 5 knots speed so the ride was very pleasant. I was at the helm leaning back against a boat cushion listening to Jimmy Buffet and Tom T. Hall (Two of the great philosophers of our time) and all was right with the world (we haven't heard news for a while). This is what cruising is all about. It only got better as the sunset faded and the stars came out. Horizon to horizon 360 degrees, nothing but stars and the � moon. Now I was alternating between Julie London and the Eagles on the IPOD. Parents, please tell you kids who Julie London is (She was married to Dragnet's Jack Webb.....never mind).
Passages are not my favorite thing but nights like this could change my mind. NOTE: Sue just told me to add that she still does not like night passages!! We hit a perfect weather window. We allowed for an 18 hour passage of the 80+/- miles and we made good time so we slowed down for the last few hours to allow a daylight arrival in Luperon. We followed Bruce Van Zant's guide for the route in. "Sailor Stuff": Bruce's guide "A Gentleman's guide to Passages South" is the bible for cruisers traveling from the US to the Caribbean. Just as we approached the entrance to the bay where the harbor is we received a radio call from a local on a hill overlooking the bay. He offered advice and 3 waypoints to use when entering. Luperon, D.R. is quite different from the Bahamas and the TCI. It is third world. We anchored in a well protected harbor surrounded by mangroves. First a small boat arrived with 4 people in it. The boat driver, a man to take information about our boat, the commandant (a D.R. Navy man) and a translator. After getting our info he explained that there was no charge BUT cruisers usually "donated" to help cover the cost of boat fuel. $20 disappeared into the commandant's hand. Then we went into town to the Customs and Immigration office where "Freddy" cleared us in and took another $53. I wish I understood Spanish so I could just listen and pick up the inside jokes around us. Then the Harbor Master got $10 and finally the Agriculture representative came out to our boat and collected another $20 (checking for fruits, vegetables, and advising that all "international" trash needed to be put in a special bin so it could be burned separately from "National" trash. We were very sleepy but also hungry so we went to a small caf�. A one liter beer, a water and two large chicken burritos cost us $9. Now we're talking. Back to the boat and we crashed. Friday, our first full day here we went in and dropped off our laundry to be done then off to the grocery for some things. The grocery was closed from 12 to 1 for lunch so we stopped at Agalina's restaurant and bar for a beer while waiting. We went by Jumbo Gift Shop to exchange US$ for Pesos (1=33.3) and then back to the boat. We had to get ready for the Grand Opening of the boat store at the marina. Wine and cheese and a tour of the store. Very limited supplies. Oil, some canned food, 4 spark plugs, WD-40, and a tube of 3M 5200.
Next was dinner at the marine bar/restaurant. I had heard Bruce Van Zant would probably be there so I took my copy of his guide and had him sign it. I ended up sitting at a table with him and we talked for several hours and bought beer back & forth. He is a very interesting man and he said his brother had just died that morning. Sue was busy signing us up for a tour Monday to the waterfalls and Porta Plata and a watercolor class for her on Tuesday. I guess I will work on the boat. The picture with this update is dinner at the Luperon marina and the gentleman sitting across from me in the white shirt is Bruce Van Zant.