Wednesday 26 December 2007
It's 7.35am QLD time and we are becalmed. The captain is having a well earned sleep after handsteering with the motor since 4am this morning. We had some strong wind early Christmas morning (20-25knots) after which the small electric tiller autopilot refused to work. Bill pulled it apart and saw that the small drive belt was broken (probably a $5 part). So now we have no self steering in calm or light winds. The wind vane works after about 5-8 knots. I can see some rain clouds ahead which may bring some wind. The boat is very rolly (things sliding back and forth in the cupboards) and we're drifting in the right direction at about 1 knot. So huey wherever you are please send some wind. We've given lots of presents to King Neptune including left over Christmas chook carcass so come on guys!
The alarm going off every 20 minutes when on watch is torture. We just drift off into that unconscious world (which was even more colourful and dreamlike after lots of Christmas pudding ) when BEEP BEEP BEEP until we push the middle button. After pulling oneself up into a sitting then standing position and crab walking hanging on to the boat then wrenching oneself up into the cockpit to do a 360 scan - ok 'no ships' - another 20 minute catnap.....that's 9 times in 3 hours...But it is important to do this because Bill did sight a big ship early this morning - first one since leaving PNG on Saturday. He said it took 40 minutes from the time he saw a light on the horizon to it actually passing us - 20 minutes if on collision course. So I am glad the 20 minute torture is worth it!
Christmas was just like home with all the rituals but not as many people!
- Presents under the tree (6 each). The tree is a pineapple decorated in a green plastic champagne bucket. I got 2 laplaps (sarongs) - 1 with PNG motifs, a head torch, shell bracelet, woven purse, tiedyed T shirt (Linda bought to match Bill's)
- Bill got - yes you guessed it - 4 pairs of underpants! They are suitable colours such as army green, grey and brown. They are a strange fit (Chinese and PNG) and made of thin cloth. One pair has 'TATA 2008' on its band. Bill says it is brand of car/truck? He also got 3 T-shirts - one with 1977 on it (our wedding anniversary), a tourist 'Kavieng one with a big colourful fish and pidgin) He also got some black bata thongs and a huge water pistol. He liked the water pistol best.
So we did quite well considering the limitations of the Chinese trade stores in Kavieng.
- Daggy Christmas carols on CD including Myer xmas special from 3 years ago and the kids 'rusty holden ute' version of jingle bells.
- Kerstkrunts - I have had this every Christmas since I was born - traditional Dutch Christmas cake. (pastry ring filled with ground almonds and sugar topped by apricot jam and glace cherries) My pastry (using the last of the butter) wasn't very good but it was still important to have this treat at Christmas
- Roast chook - we bought one in Kavieng frozen which was nicely thawed out by Christmas eve. Substituting crushed rye biscuits for bread crumbs in the stuffing with bacon and onion was delicious. We also had fresh beans (snake beans) and sweet potato bought at the market just before we left.
- Christmas Pudding - this is in a big tin and says serve 12. Warmed up with longlife custard is delicious! We didn't have dinner last night but I do confess to having some more pudding and custard at 1am. We also had some for breakfast this morning
- Candles - I have small t-lights in safe glass holders hanging in the cabin and one on the table with Christmas dinner.
- Wine - no shortage here. Before we left I bought a carton of white Semillon blank called 'Long Row'. It is indeed a long row from anywhere here! Bill also enjoyed the tradional sherry with the kerstkrunts
- Phone calls to family members not present - quite a lot of those this time! Thank you Iridium satellites! Nice to hear everyone's voices.
We always feel insignificant out in this big ocean. It is comforting to have our safe cocoon and haven. It is easy to sometimes forget where we are when cooking, emailing, reading etc within our compact home. Yet when on deck it's only a metre from the cockpit to fathoms of water all around.
We are conserving our fuel as we still have over 600nm to go. Drifting along like this I am losing hope of getting to Palau for New Years eve. The boat is creaking and rolling, the rigging banging, the water slapping against the side. The captain says it is impossible to sleep. I'm sure there will be some strong wind soon associated with the dark clouds I can see ahead. Then it's all sytems go - Bill adjusting the sails, the boat suddenly healing over and whooshing over the waves once more. Yesterday morning we were doing over 9 knots when the wind came! Our 24 hour mile count hasn't been too bad so far. 1st day = 149 nm 2n day = 143 3rd day=130. We do this at 3.30pm each day as that is when we left PNG last Saturday. Today will probably be less I imagine. Most yachties are happy if the 24 hour count is at least 100nm.
I still haven't done any art. It's a bit difficult when feeling lethargic most of the time. The guitar is also waiting to be picked up and played. ( I bought a beginners CD for Bill - alas no song for me yet - I was hoping......)
Nothing else to report. At least we had events such as crossing the equator and Christmas to make the days different to each other. I hope you liked the King Neptune & mermaid photos. Even at that small size it takes a long time to send but being such a significant occasion felt it was worthwhile.
All well on board