5 August 2008
Exploring Rodrigues by Motorbike

Rodrigues is a beautiful unspoilt island which we were able to appreciate even more by touring around on a motorbike. We hired a trail bike suitable for carrying both of us. It was quite funny as half an hour into our journey enjoying the scenery the bike spluttered and stopped. Bill couldn't get it going again. Parked beside the road opposite Bay L'herbe we attracted a lot of attention by passers by, all eager to give advice. Eventually Linda phoned the motorbike place and managed to communicate with the help of French speaking spectators what the problem was. Twice the mechanic came out after diagnosing a faulty spark plug. After an hour we got going again.

The roads are winding - sometimes following the coastline, sometimes following the contours of the mountains. The landscape near the coast is windswept and in some ways reminded us of Tasmania. The houses are of course very different built from concrete and often painted bright colours such as pink or orange with decorative columns. Cows and goats are tethered amongst tussock grass and bushes. Occasionally we would see a pig roaming the grass as well. Dark volcanic rocks are scattered throughout the island amongst the grass.

As we climbed higher into the hills the air became quite cold and the vegetation more lush and tropical. Although we did see pockets of eucalypts!! (Introduced) We had heard about a guest house called 'Chez Jeanette' which has great views and offered lunch. We saw a tiny sign beside the road and went up a bumpy dirt road to a beautiful farm house covered in bougainvillea and surrounded by a beautiful garden. A vivacious lady with long braids and a straw hat greeted us. We asked about lunch and she said 'Just I minute' and rushed off. We could see a verandah covered in vines with a couple of long tables and reclining bamboo chairs. One of the tables was already set for 6. Jeanette came back and said 'ok' and ushered us to the reclining chairs. Thinking we were invading a family lunch we at first weren't sure but soon the other guests arrived and were greeted with much laughter and kisses by Jeanette. Soon we were talking with twin young men from La Reunion and two gorgeous Rodriguan sisters with a couple of small infants. Grandma Mary was also amongst the group. We had the loveliest couple of hours conversing mostly in broken English and a little French with these lovely people. The babies Dimitri (4months) and Lowanna (18 months) were cute and Linda got to cuddle Dimitri for a while until he wanted his mum. Chris-Henri who looked about 8 was keen to show off his English and even sang us a song. When we were all asked to sit at the table we felt we were dining at a family lunch in a gorgeous French yet tropical setting. (See photos in photo gallery) The lunch was superb - Rodriguan cuisine of spicy octopus, fish, red beans, maize, pawpaw salad and rice accompanied by French wine. After about 3 hours we finally left after a tiny espresso coffee winding our way down the mountain road.

We'll never forget our lunch at Chez Jeanette's and may try to visit again before we leave Rodrigues.