Back in South Africa
25 November 2008 | Richards Bay
photo : blue testicled monkey
Zululand Yacht Club
Richards Bay
South Africa
24th November 2008
After a busy time traveling from Brisbane to Melbourne to Canberra, Sydney back to Brisbane, the Sunshine Coast and Townsville, Australia spending time with our family and good friends we are ready for a rest! It feels strange yet welcoming to be back. Our 'byes' to our family and friends were even more emotional as it may be more than a year (maybe 2) before we see them again. (unless they visit us in some far flung place in the world!)
We had 24 hours in Johannesburg before our flight back to Richards Bay. After staying the night in a hotel we engaged a friendly taxi driver Evans recommended by the hotel to drive us around. Evans took us to the tower in the city to see the view. There is evidence that Joburg is rejuvenating itself by revamping and building new shops and apartments. Squatters however still live in unused buildings. It appears much safer now to stroll around the CBD during the day anyway. As it was Sunday things were rather quiet. A good coffee was searched for and eventually found in Kensington at a groovy little place where the owner roasts his own coffee beans. The machine is impressive. The aromas were wonderful and the taste even better. We took a bag back with us and could smell it through the back pack all the way on the plane!
After hearing so much about Soweto we were keen to go there. Evans drove us past one area that was full of little tin shacks. Each little dwelling looked meticulously swept clean and the people as always were superbly dressed particularly as it was Sunday - church day. The famous part of Soweto where Nelson Mandela lived is beautifully kept. Winnie's house was difficult to see behind a fence and Nelson's original house was being redone to create a family museum.
Evans took us to the Hector Pieterson Museum which was a real eye-opener for us. Hector was a 13 year old boy killed during the demonstration in June, 1976. High School children were protesting against the language of instruction at school - Afrikaans. As they were taught and spoke Bantu in Primary school it was difficult (and inappropriate) for them to learn in Afrikaans. Something like only 38% passed matriculation. The demonstration turned violent when the police fired weapons killing and injuring many children. This was a turning point for Apartheid in South Africa. It was interesting to note that media coverage for the world was highly censored. In 1976 I had just finished high school myself and don't remember hearing the details of this horrific time. The Museum had many photos and film as well as documented interviews by children and witnesses. Now of course high school children are taught in English and much has improved since then. The effects of Apartheid can still be felt in subtle ways but as Evans said 'People now realize everyone has to get on together and no longer see the whites as enemies'. We have certainly been welcomed everywhere by all the South Africans we have met regardless of their ancestry.
Its always informative to talk to locals and Evans gave us lots of background information about Joburg and his thoughts on the present and future. He is proud of his Zulu ancestry. He said 'Linda is a popular name in Zulu. It means "wait"'(putting his hand up in a stopping motion.) I laughed and said Bill always has to wait for me as I walk slower than he does!
At the end of our 'tour' we drove through some affluent areas. All these big houses and estates of town houses had high walls and electric fences, boom gates etc. Evans said many of these houses have dogs and armed guards. To us it would feel like being in prison! Evans said violent robbery is still a big issue in Joburg and is attributed to drugs and unemployment. Illegal immigrants from other African countries are also blamed. Joburg is a city which is very spread out with enclaves of different housing depending on the demographics. It was certainly an interesting day.
After 9 aeroplane flights since we left we finally arrived 'home' to Valiam.
Valiam has been safely looked after by Zululand yachtclub and we look forward to the Monday night 'brais' where we can exchange stories and information with other yachties and club members. We have bought a big 'boerworst' and 2 big steaks to cook tonight. Our friends Rob and Natalie on Wilhelm whom we met in Cocos are now here. It will be good to catch up.
Tot siens!
25 November
Today we drove around Richards Bay in a hire car to have a look at the local beaches. It was good to see where we came in through the harbour. The cliffs and beaches look a bit like north of where we live on the Queensland coast in Australia. On one track we saw a monkey in a tree right beside the road. He had luminous blue testicles!
Tomorrow we will see some more wild life at Imfalosi game park. Natalie and Rob are coming with us in the hire car. It will be good to go back out there. I hope to see some elephants this time!