Based in Kirkwall we set about exploring mainland Orkney with Lyns. It's a rolling landscape and there are virtually no trees and its always windy. The higher areas are moorland and then all the lower areas are farmed for dairy or sheep and pretty intensively. Much of it is improved grassland with a mono culture of rye grass, and without hedges or trees its really quite dull without much wildlife. The moorland areas are better and they have good numbers of ground nesting birds, especially curlew and are a haven for Hen Harriers. It was even better for ground nesting birds as the island's don't have any mammal predators, that was until a farmer thought it would be a good idea to introduce stoats to control the rabbits. Needless to say they preferred tasty chicks and eggs to rabbit so their numbers increase quickly at the expense of the birds. The Orkney Wildlife Rangers now spend a lot of time trying to catch the stoats. They think they are winning, with thanks to well trained labradors that sniff out the stoats nests so they put the traps in good places. The rabbits are also doing well and range in colour from gold to black.


Skara Brae is a small settlement on the west coast, older than Stonehenge and the Pyramids. It is so well preserved as it was covered in sand, only revealed in 1850 when a massive storm blew all the sand away. Luckily the local Laird was an amateur archaeologist and proceeded to dig out the settlement. Very impressive considering its 5000 years old, they even had a simple sewer system that took waste into the sea. The Ring Brodgar nearby is a mini Stonehenge, smaller stones but much prettier and much less touristy!

Kirkwall is a handsome town, with old stone houses along a narrow high street, a massive cathedral and several good restaurants and shops. After some painstaking research we declare the Storehouse the best restaurant and the Daily Scoop as a fine sunny spot for a morning coffee.

Kenny also takes the prize for the most friendly and chatty Harbour master we have come across so far....so well done Orkney Marinas.