We receive our passports back along with initial entry paperwork from our agent this morning. Fast turnaround this time. The fee is the same as an initial entry, $220 Mil or if you pay in USD $130, (a poor exchange rate). We got up early and walked into the old town to change money so pay in COP. To complete the process, we need a new customs inspection even though we have a valid one good until May 2012. The rules are ever changing. This one seems be have been brought about due to the current "backpacker wars" as our agent coined it.

The Colombian government is now requiring all paperwork and custom's inspections be complete within 5 days of entry. An exit zarpa cancels everything. Not a cruiser friendly change. We came back to Cartagena for only a couple of weeks, mostly to say a proper Goodbye & Best Wishes! to our friends Kate & DJ on s/v Hello World before they head to the USA to start a new chapter in their lives, yet now have to pay the same fees and complete the same paperwork and inspections as if entering for the first time.

Speaking of the current "backpacker war". Our agent said the Colombian government is now requiring all foreign-captains in the trade to obtain a work visa. Most of them had one within 5 days. We asked if it had affected the traffic. He said, only for Colombian skippers who know they will be met with anger so are too afraid to go to Panama. Seems like their win on the Colombia side isn't a win after all.

The customs inspection of Vida Dulce isn't until next week so with passports in hand and our agents knowledge, we leave Cartagena and sail to Cholon. We'll return to Cartagena for a final time this year just before the inspection is likely to occur. We arrive in Cholon with warm greetings from our friends here. Tonight the water is a mirror reflecting islands, nearly full moon, stars and even the few clouds in the night sky. It's good to be back.