Livingston / Rio Dulce, Guatemala Arrival
24 May 2017 | Rio Dulce, Guatemala
Susan / hot, hazy & humid, 98 degrees F
We arrive in Livingston, Guatemala to check-in at 7am after a 20 hour passage from West End Roatan, Honduras. We took a different route this time due to recent piracy activity. Just a few weeks ago a sailing vessel was chased down & boarded by 4 armed men who took everything of value. There were two other such attacks in the Dec / Jan timeframe in the same area, off Puerto Cortez on the rhumb line between Tres Punta & Utila or Roatan. This is a well traveled cruising route which makes me wonder if the perps are being led or informed by a former cruiser needing funds. Same with the piracy attacks that have been occurring this season off Punta Gorda, Nicaragua going the other direction on the "Panama-bound route". To stay well clear of trouble going to Livingston / Rio Dulce many cruisers are choosing to travel West into Belize and go in behind the reef before turning South towards Tres Puntas / Livingston. We considered two such routes however last night was sooo dark - new moon, filtered stars, no ambient light from anything - that we didn't feel comfortable taking either route under those conditions in the event there were boats anchored along our planned route. Both of us would have to be on watch, one with a flashlight @ the bow and the other at the helm, meaning no sleep for either of us. Instead just a few miles out from the Ranguana Cay arrival waypoint, we turn South, keeping the reefs several miles off our starboard. Seas a little rough at times, however we had a 2 kt favorable current nearly all of the way which helped time-wise.
We'd emailed Raul (agent) and faxed him all documents including our zarpe on Saturday to expatiate the check-in process. He scheduled all officials to visit Vida Dulce at 9am; it was more like half-past but all five were super efficient with their paperwork and questions. We go to Raul's office an hour or so later, wait while one boat ahead of us finishes their process; we're in country legally by 11am. Cost for the check-in / 3mo permit plus 9mo extension (all in) is Q3,400 / US $485, same Q as hast year however with the change in exchange rate more than the US $454 of last year. A quick stop at the bank for Q's and we're on our way up river to the marina.
At the marina, our slip is waiting as are the guys to help secure our lines. By 4pm we're enjoying AC - it's a hot sticky humid 98 degrees F here! - and a cold arrival beer.