A few nights ago we joined Graham and Janet from Moonraker for a nice Italian meal at Ciao Restaurant in the Neiafu CBD. We sat at an outside table that commanded a stunning view across the harbour. The mood was set. It was a pleasant temperature; there were candles on the table and the harbour shimmered below us in a pink and violet afterglow as the sun set behind the mountains.

The menu showed us there was a selection of pasta dishes, fish and meat. We ordered a couple of antipasto dishes and perused the wine list. It told us there was a selection of red and white wines from Australia but did not list them (this is not uncommon as it depends on what is in stock at any one time).

The lovely Tongan waitress was standing by, pen and pad in hand waiting expectantly for our order. As we were guests of Graham and Janet we left Graham to deal with the wine order. The conversation went like this:

"What wines do you have?" he asked. "Red ones and white ones" she answered. "Yes, I know that because that is what the menu says. What kind of red wines do you have?" he asked. "In a bottle." she answered. With that Graham arose and went into the kitchen himself to return with a good bottle of Yellowtail Cabernet Sauvignon.

The previous few days we went out to start exploring some of the islands in the Vava'u group. During the week before at a charity function I had successfully bid for a dinner for two at a resort on one of the outlying islands so this was where he headed first.

Mounu Island is a very small little atoll surrounded by beautiful white sand. It's about two hours sail south of Vava'u. A New Zealand couple, Alan and Lyn Bowe have built a small eco resort on the island and we understand it's rated in the top 10 by Cond� Nast magazine. Alan's an ex-advertising man who sold his agency to Saatchi's in New Zealand about 20 years ago, grew a beard and went troppo. He went fishing for a few years then discovered whales in Tonga. He started diving with them and from that grew the Tonga whale watching industry. He later discovered Mounu Island and after delivering a few pigs to the island's owners was able to secure a long term lease and develop the resort. His pure white beard is now halfway down his chest and about as wide as his shoulders.

We went ashore with our Moonraker friends and had a beautiful meal at the restaurant overlooking the lagoon. We even had a real wine list. We were joined by the other guests staying at the resort (there are only 4 Fales each catering for a couple - children are not allowed on the island).

Later, over coffee Graham's and my conversation with our host turned to politics. In talking to the local people here in Vava'u it's quite clear the monarchy has a few problems. The new king who took over last year when his dad died is seen as a taker rather than a giver. The local population feel they are not sharing in the development of the Island Kingdom because the king has one third of the votes, the nobles have another third and the remaining 95% of the population get a third of the votes.

Alan has a different perspective on the situation and believes the islands need a benevolent dictator and he's probably right. He recognises the current king has an image problem so went down to Nuku'alofa and had a meeting with him. He convinced him that he needed to brush up and manage his image and to do this has negotiated the world media rights to the king's coronation later in the year.

The people you meet........

The picture above is of us with Janet on the beach at Mounu Island the morning after our dinner. Volar� and Moonraker in the background.

We spent a pleasant few days at another island adjacent to Mounu and have now returned to Neiafu to restock before returning to the wild in a few days.