Well, we finally left Fajardo on February 3rd, heading for Puerto Patillas on the southeast corner of PR. After a very rolly night there, we travelled to a lovely secluded anchorage at Cayos de Barca in the Boca de Infierno near Salinas. The area features neat channels for dinghy exploring and clear water, despite the miles of mangrove swamp. Then it was off to Isla Caja de Muertos (Coffin Island?) near Ponce. The island is a National Park, overrun on the weekends but empty during the week while we were there. This was a great chance for hiking! The next day we dropped the hook at Guilligans (Gilligans) Island. Again, this is very busy on the weekends with folks swimming, lounging and just hanging around in the crystal clear knee to neck deep water amongst the mangroves. We had not visited these places on the trip east, but would recommend each to anyone making that passage - although you would need to wiggle your way in close at Puerto Patillas to get completely out of the roll.

Finally, the next day we rounded the southwest corner of PR and anchored in Boqueron. So much for downwind sailing - the log shows 20 hours of engine time for 23 hours on passage!

On the way in to the harbour we heard another vessel hailing Werplayin, whom we first met in Beaufort and accompanied through the Bahamas to Warderick Wells. Later when we dinghied ashore, we saw Seven Bridges, the DR boat with whom we had crossed the Mona Passage in April 2008. Amazing how small the cruising community really is - and the opportunities to get together and swap stories. Steve, on Seven Bridges now keeps his boat in Samana, and advised he would probably be in Santo Domingo when we were there. Moreover, he plans to sail to Santiago de Cuba in early March.

In company with Bonanza, we rented a car for provisioning and exploring the western part of Puerto Rico. We travelled up to the surfing hangout at Rincon, and visited Aguada and Aguadilla on the north coast. One highlight was a visit to Ponce.

Once folks in Boqueron heard that we'd be stopping at Ile a Vache, several people put together a pile of food and clothing for us to deliver to the Island.

Sailing is always a humbling experience, especially for those of us who like to plan their trip. We left Boqueron on February 14th with a plan to cover the 670 nautical miles to Santiago, Cuba in three weeks with about nine stops along the way. We had delayed our Boqueron departure by 4 days because of big north swells (12 feet) that would make our Mona Passage crossing uncomfortable and block our entry into Mona Island, our first stop. Well, after travelling 45 miles, we still couldn't enter Mona Island because the somewhat reduced north swell was still breaking across the entrance reef and into the anchorage. We had to continue another 55 miles through the night arriving at Isla Saona at 2AM on a pitch dark night.

After a night at Las Palmillas in the secluded anchorage we were surprised the next day when twenty or so large boats full of tourists from Bayahibe and La Romana cruise terminal swamped the place. They all hung out in the shallow water partying and snorkeling till later in the day - then seclusion returned! It was then time to move on to Casa de Campo marina to check in to the DR. The normal batch of seven officials cost us about $123 US. The marina was $1.10 per foot plus 16% ITBIS (tax). We rented a golf cart and explored the whole resort - which is more like a large village with stores, hotels, restaurants, mega-homes, mega-yachts, several golf courses, polo, rodeo grounds, helipad, etc.
The piece de resistance once one stops drooling at the mansions is Alto de Chavon, an ancient European village reconstruction on the heights above the Chavon River, complete with a Greek amphitheater. This was the site of the entertainment ambush, and the crime (Bonanza and Voyageur C musical talent) can be seen in our headline picture! After a couple of days oohing and ahhing we left millionaire land and moved on to Marina ZarPar in Boca Chica on February 19th.

Marina ZarPar is a great little spot run as efficiently as any in North America. Our bible for cruising the DR was free, authored by Frank Virgintino whom we met at ZarPar. Later, with Bonanza, we left the boats in the marina and travelled by local bus into the capital, Santo Domingo, to spend a night.
Visiting Santo Domingo (Zona Colonial) is like walking into a history book. Imagine walking the same streets as Pizarro, Cortez, Bartolome Colon (Columbus) and of course Christopher Columbus. Sir Francis Drake looted and slept here as well. The buildings are incredible, many dating from the early 1500s. This is the site of the oldest hospital and oldest (still in use) cathedral in the western hemisphere and was the base of operations for the Spanish conquest of the New World.

We spent a week in Boca Chica waiting out a succession of cold fronts that are bringing west winds. A cold front is one thing, but four in 10 days is a bit much. West wind wouldn't be so bad if our intermediate anchorages weren't wide open to the west!

Ah well, the Presidente (beer) was nice and cold. Temperature here gets down to the chilly 70s but gets back to high 80s in the day. Leona even brought the comforter out of retirement.

In any event on Feb 27th we motored all day to Salinas, our jumping off spot for Ile a Vache by way of Bahia de las Aguialas, a total run of 215 miles or so. We plan to leave this evening, assuming we get our internacionale despacho. Unfortunately, it looks like a long motor trip with winds under 10K most of the way. Since leaving Boqueron we've motored for 36 of 42 hours due to incessant cold fronts killing the trade winds. Where oh where is the downwind sailing?


UPDATE:
Well, we went for our Despacho and were advised we can't get international clearance from Salinas, so we have to go to Barahona tomorrow, where we might be able to clear out! Another day or two behind the plan.