Footnotes from Water Music

After 17 days at sea, we made our landfall in Fatu Hiva and spent a couple of days in this glorious paradise. It is one of the iconic anchorages in the Marquesas - with huge hills and cliffs all around. One of our pilot books says you almost expect to see King Kong poking his head around the hills. That is exactly what we felt. We walked to the waterfall - through a lovely wild flower strewn path and then got driven by a kamikaze driver inland to the next door village (makes the route 2 driver on the Grenada dollar bus look like an outing from the local old people's home) - which gave us the opportunity to see the interior of this beautiful island. He felt the need (which we understood) to stop at the various shrines to thank Virgin Mary and St Christopher for his continued deliverance. We felt he could have achieved the same result by slowing down. Scenery akin to some of the Canary Islands, but more dramatic. In the evening we had dinner in one of the locals houses (there are no restaurants or bars here) and then went to the local village hall, where they were practicing for the Dance competition across Polynesia next month.

The dance involved about 80 people, drums and a ferocious, transvestite, dance master. He was chastising them all for lack of commitment. We thought it was wonderful. As I commented to an Argentinian off the next door boat - it was extraordinary how the women moved so gracefully - hips gyrating whilst the upper body was utterly still. I was particularly taken by the size of some of these women - who had clearly been at the sweets between meals. The Argie reaction was to nod and agree, but to quietly point out that the particular person i was referring to (whilst dressed in a skirt) was actually a man.

We loved Fatu Hiva but at some point knew we would have to leave and check in to French Polynesia - so we made the 40 mile broad reach alongside another yacht. Arriving in Atuona in Hiva Ao, we cleared customs, did some re-provisioning and had a very good dinner before leaving on Saturday morning for a small bay on the next door island - Tahuata. Tahuata delivered what it promised - with a stunning beach and then very hospitable people. Today we have hiked between villages - mercifully the cafe owner took pity on us and delivered us back to the boat after rather a good lunch - it took 40 minutes by car! We are now into island hopping mode - snorkels are out, bbq is about to get used again and the water maker is running for its life.

The routine on board is different - but the weather remains warm and balmy.

Plans are to stay in Marquesas for another week or so and then head to the Tuamotos. They are apparently right off the beaten track.