Footnotes from Water Music

After a week in Aviatu on Raratonga it was time to move on again. Our timing on the capital of the Cook Islands could not have been better as we had arrived some 24 hours after some new friends from NZ (Ross & Cindy Sutherland) who had a guest house on Raratonga and knew it really well. In addition to having people to show us around, we arrived at the beginning of a week of celebration leading up to Flag Day - which celebrates independence. That meant that there was dancing and singing every night in the Cook Island National Stadium - a 30 minute walk from the harbour. The crew were in their element and went three times in the space of a week - leaving Stephen to deal with a stomach bug that he had contracted. The dancing was again very different to what we had got used to in French Polynesia and showed what we understood to be much stronger connections with the modern Maori and less to do with the French Polynesian. In addition to the cultural events, we found cafe's, bars ad even restaurants that were even open in the evening. This would be our first (other than in Papeete) pretty much since leaving Galapagos some 4 months ago. To add to the general feeling of arriving back in the W world, there were well stocked supermarkets (even selling something called Marmite) and a couple of very good wine shops. That supermarket in Panama was a long time ago! We also had the chance to drive around the island, climb up to a waterfall and get bitten by lots of mosquitos.

Our last afternoon was spent watching the racing at Raratonga sailing Club - fortunately won by our host, Ross, & then back to their house for a bbq in the evening. The conversation flowed fully about the wonderful places we would see in Tonga, Fiji and finally in NZ. With each passing story of adventures in store, Grace was showing increased signs of anxiety. Stephen - as ever - completely oblivious to these as he has become completely accustomed to them. It too our host to comment - "Stephen, you seem to be sailing everywhere with the handbrake on. Why not let the handbrake off and have some fun...." The skipper has no idea what he was referring to.

On the Sunday morning, we went to the Cook Island Christian Church for their weekly service in the oldest church on the islands and the original one founded by the Missionary Society. A great display of the .locals in the finest - but a pity that we couldnt really take part in the service as we were tucked away upstairs with the other visitors.

Immediately afterwards, we set sail into very little wind - heading for Niue. This, we understand, is the smallest island state in the world - measuring some 60km around the outside of the island. It is some 600 Nm mile away and should take us 4 days - if we get any wind.

More later.