Legend: Top L to R
Relaxing after a big meal, Ensenada El Grande: Cactus & low brush vegetation, Ensenada El Grande:
Hiking up in the Arroyo, Ensenada El Grande: Ensenada El Grande from the Arroyo

Location 24 33'491 N ... 110 23'890 W
Nearly 11am on a bright, clear, sunny day is not necessarily the ideal time to start out on a long, uphill climb through the beautiful, but rocky and unshaded cliffs separating Ensenada Grande bay from the eastern shoreline of Isla Partida, particularly when you are wearing soft water shoes and have left your water bottle behind in the dingy anchored on the beach. Nevertheless, undaunted, Ian and I weave our way upward through the arroyo, dotted with cactus, bramble, and enormous volcanic rocks, on a mission to capture a spectacular view of the eastern Sea of Cortez at the top of the cliff. An added bonus would be a glimpse of the much sought-after blue-footed booby, a rare bird found in this region, which we have yet to be able to spot. As we climbed the rocky hills, we paused intermittently to study and photo the many different varieties of cacti scattered along the way, some clinging to the dry, rocky cliff-side, seemingly by a thread, in the eternal struggle for life. The silent beauty of the landscape was mesmerizing; the only sounds heard were the ocean breezes rustling through the canyon, the metallic sounds of cicadas, and the occasional screech of the frigate birds circling above. Aside from the birds, the only evidence of life on this uninhabited island were the rare small gray squirrels scampering among the rocks, and small droppings along the path, likely from a rare rabbit breed said to live here. Was this the experience of the early explorers and fisherman who first saw these islands (long before the days of the Pearl divers, industrial revolution and noise pollution)?

After our hike, we returned to find our dinghy stranded on the beach due to the outgoing tide. Ian and I pulled and tugged (after gulping water and taking a cooling dip in the crystal clear bay) finally working it loose. We headed slowly back to Wheytogo, looking down in 6-10 feet of crystal clear water to see a sea snake swimming below, then crabs scurrying along the rocks at the base of the cliffs. Back on board Wheytogo, we have a quick lunch, and its Siesta time!

Mid-afternoon finds us snorkeling along the rocky shoreline, looking at clams, sergeant major fish, and large starfish among the scant coral below. Quickly chilled in the low 70 degree waters, we swim back to the sailboat after 30 minutes and warm ourselves in the hot outdoor shower and intense sun. As a few new sailboats enter the bay seeking safe anchorage for the night, we feed and photo the puffer fish gathered at the back steps of the deck, reminiscing at Lauren's recent escapade of puffer fish nibbling at her toes.

Another startlingly-beautiful sunset emerges as we sit down to our grilled dinner on the back deck. As we interrupt our meal for yet another photo opportunity, we hear the splash of the sting rays, as they begin their nightly display of jumping and 'belly-flopping" back into the water near our boat. As they hit the water with a loud splash, an echo reverberates along the cliff walls like a gunshot. After dinner, we climb up on the roof top deck with a glass of Pinot Noir, and listen to the silence, interrupted periodically by the flapping of the flying stingrays, as the fading embers of the fiery sunset fade away. Another perfect day in paradise, and a feeling of joy and gratitude for the opportunity to experience this example of nature�'s majesty.