WILL WE MAKE IT TO APIA ON TIME? 28 MAY 2019
Location 14 18'535S 170 38'067W
The storm slowly resolved, and we determined that it would be safe to depart on Wednesday afternoon, which would be Thursday afternoon in Apia (past the international date line). We had yet another day in Pago Pago, so after finally checking into customs, we rented a car and toured the National Park on the northern shore, climbing to the top of old volcanic cliffs and passing through extensive dense green rain forests with dramatic views of the rugged coastline.

Along the way we observed the local villages, each owned by a family, with all the homes belonging to extended relatives. Each family village has its own chief and each separate village consists of group of homes belonging to extended family members only. We observed many graves, crypts or mausoleums of family members located in the front yards of the individual homes, even on the front porch, representing a place of honor for their beloved ancestors. It was common to see families sitting outside near the graves and chatting with each other or playing volleyball.

There is a very strong emphasis on family connection in this culture, reflected in their closeness with each other and their friendliness toward visitors, whom they welcome like family. It was inspiring to witness that bond, as our own western culture family structures becomes increasingly more fragmented and disjointed.

We passed by the huge Star-Kist industrial tuna packing plant which dominates the Pago Pago harbor, intermittently releasing unpleasant smells and loud industrial clangs and bangs, sometimes mistaken for airplane engines. It is a sore spot on the otherwise very picturesque harbor front, nevertheless Mimi and I could not resist a photo opportunity with Charlie the tuna. Later we got Shay on his flight back to Honolulu Tues evening (changed from the originally -planned Apia departure due to all our delays).

The following morning, we prepared for an afternoon departure to Apia, replenish our diesel stores and securing the boat and saying our goodbyes to Eagle and Joe, as well as our new friends on the trimaran docked near us. The skies were clearing, the winds were excellent for sailing, and the seas were much calmer. Ian, myself and Mimi departed Pago Pago at 3 PM Wednesday for an overnight sail which would allow us to arrive at Apia Harbor on the island of Upolu in Western Samoa around 8 AM on Friday morning (losing one day as we crossed the international date line).
We headed west at 7 knots/hr toward the golden sunset with following seas and a beautiful rainbow ahead, as if to make amends for the miserable conditions of the prior 3 days and offer promise of a glorious sail.