We had a nice overnight sail from Tanna to Port Vila where we even managed a little race towards the end with our friends on Just Jane. We arrived in just enough time to check in, wash the boat and collect our Aussie friend, Rick, from the airport who was spending the next ten days with us.

Port Vila was a nice town with a superb produce market where almost everything was $1 each. However, except for the fruit and veg, we quickly realised that Vanuatu prices are much higher than Fiji and more similar to Sydney prices. Oh well it was nice while it lasted. We spent just the one night in Port Vila as we were keen to get to Lamen Bay on the island of Epi, which was a three-day hop away. We enjoyed trade wind 15-20 knot sailing and Rick was in his element steering Whippersnapper. The days were consumed sailing, fishing, snorkeling and playing blokus. The evening’s playing cards and drinking the only cans of beer that they sold in Port Vila – VB.

We arrived in Lamen Bay on the Thursday very excited at the possibility of seeing a dugong. Dugong’s have the head of a hippo and the body of a dolphin - strange but yet very cute looking creatures. We quickly went for a snorkel to see if we could find them but alas they weren’t there. We did see huge turtles that were very happy to allow us to swim with them. That evening after a few sundowners we went into the village for dinner. On the way we stopped at a Kava Bar to introduce Rick to the local brew. Hugh and I told Rick the story of our experience with Kava in Fiji and how weak it was so Rick had two cups while we had one. Gosh it sure was different to Fiji – so strong. Poor Rick ended up having an altercation with a tree and the tree won. I’m sure we provided lots of entertainment in the restaurant. The next morning as we were about to leave the bay a couple we met the night before pointed out the dugong to us so in we jumped and swam with her. A wonderful experience and even though she moved fairly fast we still got a few good photos and were pleased with ourselves.

Next stop was Banan Bay on the island of Malakula. Our guidebook said we should try to get to see the Custom Dance as its very authentic in this particular village. Luckily for us there was already an old expedition vessel in the bay with 17 guests onboard and they had organised a visit to the waterfall in the morning and a Custom dance for the afternoon and invited us to join them. It was fantastic. The waterfall was a 2.5 hour trek each way inland with the locals. We had lots of opportunity to chat with them along the way and learn about their country and traditions e.g. they finish school at 13 and marry when they are 21 years old. The waterfall itself though not the largest we’ve seen was lots of fun as there was about 20 locals swimming with us. These people are just so happy in themselves with the biggest smiles, it was very refreshing to see.

The highlight was the Custom Dance. Not knowing what to expect we were a little gob smacked when we were brought to the Nasara (a place where you have to be invited too, where the men hang out and local women & kids are not allowed) to see approximately 30 men wearing only Nambas – basically a vine leaf and a piece of string. They welcomed us to their Nasara and did a few dances for us. You must watch the video we’ve uploaded in our photo gallery. Then we were taken back to the village to where the women and kids were and they performed a few dances for us too. They do the Custom Dance during celebrations like weddings and promotions of Chiefs and its very sacred to them.

As we were keen to get some diving in before Rick departed we decided to leave after the dancing to do an overnighter to the island of Espiritu Santo. Rick was trilled with this and did some of the night watches with us. We booked two dives for the following morning on the famous SS President Coolridge wreck and Million Dollar Point. The SS President Coolidge was a luxury liner built in 1931 that was purchased by the US Navy and converted for active service in WWII. It sank in 1941 when it hit a ‘friendly’ mine. The Captain had over 5,000 troops onboard and a cargo hold full of jeeps, tanks, ammunition and medical supplies. He ran the vessel aground and to his credit he saved all onboard except two. Within 90 minutes and luckily once all the crew and passengers had disembarked, the Coolidge slipped back off the reef and sunk. Today it lies just off the beach as one of the world's best wreck dives in 20 to 70 meters depth. Million Dollar Point is where the Americans at the end of the second world war after asking the locals whether they wanted all their diggers, bulldozers and jeeps, got no reply pushed everything out into the sea. So stacked in 15 to 40 meters depth is 134 diggers, bulldozers and jeeps piled up on top of each other making for great diving. The two dives were so unique and awesome. Even though our Padi cards don’t permit us to go that deep, it doesn’t seem to matter around here. They actually don’t even ask to see your card!

Now we anchored in a very protected bay at the Oyster Bay Resort and said our farewells to Rick today. It was great having him onboard and we’re delighted he had some truly amazing adventures with us. With good internet we plan to hold tight here until Monday when another good friend, Lane, arrives.