Maryland's Eastern Shore
24 October 2015 | Maryland, Eastern Shore
We love, love, love the Eastern shore. After the craziness and bustle of Annapolis, we needed a change and we found it.
First stop, St Michael's. We anchored in Fogg Cove, just outside the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum and the Inn at Perry Creek (named in honor of Oliver Perry, Battle of Lake Erie, on whose ship the owner served). Uproar anchored just off the channel in not quite enough water. The museum is amazing... the first one I've ever been in that encourages one to touch and examine the exhibits instead of putting a plexiglass wall between the viewer and the exhibit. It took us a day and a half to experience it all.... the Skipjacks, crabbing and oyster displays among our favorites.
From there Whisper cruised up the Wye River (rivers here are much bigger and wider than I imagined) to Dividing Creek. This anchorage was small and intimate, only two other boats, and was the first to remind us of our Georgian Bay favorites. It gave us the most calm and serene night in weeks.
Next on our agenda was the Watermen's Festival at Tilghman Island. To get there Whisper had to navigate a shoally and narrow channel at the midpoint of the Island. We anchored with Uproar in the Bay of the Choptank as the water was too shallow for us in the harbor. Besides, the harbor was full of workboats. The next morning we awoke to the surprise of a race mark just off our port side. We were anchored on the workboat race course. Needless to say, we moved out of range of these high powered boats. The highlight of the day was the workboat docking contest. Don't miss the video on my Facebook page. What a hoot!!!
We sought a calmer anchorage for the night, choosing the Plaindealing Creek of the Tred Avon River. The next morning we took a slip in Oxford, just a mile or so from the anchorage. Oxford is home to Hinkley Boats as well as the Cutts and Case Shipyard. It is a lovely town of centuries old homes with lots of very expensive boats. We got a personal tour of the Cutts and Case buildings from the current owner, Ron, who carries on his grandfather's boat building tradition. He also had a roomful of old motorcycles, which Russ could hardly tear himself away from!
The next stop was a short hop from Oxford, to La Trappe Creek on the Choptank River. This was by far, the best anchorage of the Chesapeake. The two boats anchored behind a sand spit in a lovely bay full of herons, ducks and geese (but too shallow for crab). We spent three nights there and could have stayed more. A large house with outbuildings occupied the west end of the bay. The caretaker, Dan, invited us to visit and told us the history of the house built in the 1800s. Other homes in the area dated back to the 1700s. Dan also taught us how to fetch oysters from the sand at low tide... we learned how long it takes to clean and shuck 60 oysters!!! But they were huge and yummy! We had oyster shooters one night and Oysters Rockefeller the next.
Reluctantly we left the anchorage for Cambridge, where we learned there would be a Schooner Rendezvous from the boats that did the Great Schooner Race. Fall sailing in the Chesapeake has turned out to be a wonderful time of year to be here.