It is with a tinge of sadness I compose this final entry, balanced at satisfaction at having completed the trip, and happiness at being home once more. But enough sentimentality, on with the story.

The gales kept me in Cherbourg for a further 5 nights. I agonised about a Wednesday crossing. The forecast was West to South West winds up to F6 and sea state of moderate to rough, so certainly it would be possible to cross, but I didn’t relish the thought of being knocked around in rough seas for 12 hours when just one more day promised an easier crossing.

So Thursday became my last day. I set off about 07.30 French time, with the promise of light but favourable winds. For most of my trip the forecast has underestimated the wind, but not the met office. No wind arrived, so it became a straightforward motor back. About 15 nm from Cherbourg I saw a naval type vessel heading out, and wondered what they up to.

I didn’t have to wonder for too long as it was me that was their target, and they were the Douanes – French customs. They circled, and indicated they wanted to talk on VHF. They wanted to know where I’d come from, including the last 3 ports and where I was going. On receiving these vital pieces of information, guaranteed to help with the war against terror, they bade me a good day and went on their way back o Cherbourg. I’m sure French taxpayers will be reassured to know their money is being so well spent.

Visibility was excellent. I could see as far as the sun. That’s mainly excellent news, but it did mean I saw lots of ships as I crossed the shipping lanes, and saw the Isle of Wight from about 25 nm away. It seemed to take forever to get there.

So finally I arrive back at Gosport in Portsmouth Harbour after:

2,516.2 nm
50 ports
114 days, or 3.8 months

I wasn’t expecting all the technical problems I had at the start, and was relieved I was able to get them fixed with minimal impact on the trip, just an unfortunate impact on my bank account. Biscay was kind this year, with an ok trip south and a surprisingly easy trip north.

Looking back, I think with fondness of the people I’d met, and the friendliness, helpfulness and efficiency of the Spanish and Portuguse. British and French marinas could learn a lot from them. It was interesting to experience the camaraderie of the British once away from the more familiar waters of the UK and France. It didn’t seem to matter what type or age or condition of boat or crew, there was spirit of being in it together, and helping each other whenever possible. Sadly the nearer home, the weaker this was.

I loved the Spanish Rias, and I really enjoyed my taste of hot climate on my own boat in southern Portugal. Vianno do Castelo and Cascais were my Portuguese favourites. I hated the crowds of the 1st few weeks in August in South Brittany which made seemingly attractive places almost intolerable.

I think on balance, I and the boat held up pretty well for this, for me, unforgettable trip, and one I’m very glad I made after dreaming of it for so many years.

Finally, thanks to you for reading, and I hope you enjoyed sharing some of my experiences.

I wonder what’s next.................................

Click here to go back to main blog page

http://www.sailblogs.com/member/whiteangel2011/

You just never know who your neighbours will be – the Queen Mary leaving after popping into Cherbourg to view White Angel.

It was a bit rolly at anchor in Alderney, but no worse than some of the others on the trip.

The visibility improved enough in the morning for the photo in the last entry, and by the afternoon was pretty good. Sailing in this area is governed by the tides, so an afternoon departure was in order.

It was an uneventful sail, crossing the top of the notorious Alderney Race with light but favourable winds. There was an occasional fog patch, but thankfully nothing that lingered. There seemed to be very few lobster pots and no other boats.

At 6.00 pm I tied up in Cherbourg where there was no shortage of spaces. Uncharacteristically, despite having an audience I managed a perfect park. I wanted to applaud myself, but thought the audience may not approve, and doubt my mental health.

I later learned that most of the visiting boats had been there for at least a week due to the weather. Given the forecast, and promise of leftover hurricanes from the other side of the Atlanic, it looks like I won’t be leaving quickly myself.

So close and yet so far......

Click here to go back to main blog page

http://www.sailblogs.com/member/whiteangel2011/

Five nights at St Peter Port was enough. For me, more than enough, but bad weather had kept me firmly but safely tied up in the QE2 marina.

But Thursday was not quite so bad, so off I went. I would have liked to have gone to Cherbourg, but it would have meant arriving in the dark between 10 and midnight. Whilst I don't mind, quite like even sailing in the dark, I don't like doing so close to land or arriving in the dark, so opted instead to go to Alderney where I could arrive in time for a civilised dinner.

Conditions didn't seem too bad in the marina, but got progressively worse quite quickly.

The biggest problem was visibility, or to more accurate, the lack of it. Nevertheless, I felt I'd started so I'd finish. Up went the sails, on went the radar, and White Angel headed North West. Winds picked up, and I was soon down to 2 reefs and a partly furled foresail. But it was ok, as even though the wind sometimes exceeded 30 knots (F7) it was a following wind, so not too bad. In a similar vein the calm'ish seas outside the marina gave way to more lively seas once I'd cleared Guernsey, but nothing exceptional.

Arriving at Alderney was perhaps both the highlight and lowlight. The highlight, was that its good to arrive and break out those essential nutritional supplies of gin and tonic. The lowlight, rounding Alderney brought me heading directly into the very strong winds and crashing waves for the last few miles, and visibility so low that when I entered the harbour, I still couldn't see the other yachts already moored to buoys.

I decided to anchor off the beach rather than join the other boats. I believe it's ½ price to anchor, so better value, but also it allowed me to be able to run my petrol generator without worrying about disturbing others. In practice, it turned out to be even better value, as I wasn't charged.

Click here to go back to main blog page

http://www.sailblogs.com/member/whiteangel2011/

After a rest, and letting the winds die down a bit for the longer trip of about 60 nm to Guernsey, I set off once more on the first Saturday morning of September.

It was a nice day, but little wind was forecast, nevertheless, once more I pointed the boat at the tiny marina entrance/exit, shut my eyes, and hey presto, when I opened them I was out. Well I exaggerate a tad, but it’s how it felt. In fact the gap was 6m, allowing a 1.1m gap either side for me, or about 0.8m gap either side with fenders down.

I motored for the first few hours, but was then lucky enough to get a favourable wind for about 4 hrs, which eventually died away leaving me under Volvo power once more.

I arrived before there was enough water to get into the marina, so anchored in Havelet Bay, next to St Peter Port for a couple of hours, before going to St Peter Port visitor marina to get customs papers and then on to the QE2 marina for the night. White Angel is a little too deep for the visitor marina. The last part was in the dark. Whilst I’m quite happy sailing at night at sea, I hate doing so near land with lobster pots every ready to catch the unwary.

I would normally have stayed at anchor overnight and gone in the next day, but the weather gods were threatening unpleasantness, so I decided to play safe. The gods lived up to their forecast, with gales in the channel for several days, keeping me in Guernsey until Thursday. I like Guernsey, and enjoy visiting it for a day or two, but having been here so many times in the past, a day or two is enough, so I’m looking forward to moving on despite the tides being less than convenient.

Click here to go back to main blog page

http://www.sailblogs.com/member/whiteangel2011/

Given the super strong tides, there was little point in an early departure, so it wasn’t until 2.30 I upped anchor and away.

The winds were East-North East, co-incidently the same way I wanted to go. But there was little option. It was either stay in the anchorage to wait for the more suitable winds forecast for several days later, or grit my teeth, gird my loins and all the other clichés you might think of, and brave the elements.

The winds were forecast to be a F5-6, and the sea state rough to very rough. It didn’t disappoint, with the winds actually peaking at the lower end of F7 at 32 knots. I tacked and battered my way for 9 hrs to Perros Guirec.

There were no other boats out. I wonder why?

The marina at Perros Guirec has a very narrow tidal window of usually just an hour before High Water to an hour after. But by some lucky fluke I arrived around dusk, at an ideal time of 15 mins or so before high water. To illustrate quite how narrow the window gets, when there is a neap tide, it is not possible to enter or leave the marina for about 4 days. So I’d better watch how long I stay.

The entrance to the marina is also very narrow, arguably the narrowest I’ve ever used. It was both a sucking of teeth and butt clenching moment as I pointed the boat at the gap, shut my eyes and hoped for the best. Motoring through the gap with stone walls either side, it felt as if my fenders might touch on both sides, but somehow, I slid safely in.

The marina was very sheltered though, and I parked without drama.

Click here to go back to main blog page

http://www.sailblogs.com/member/whiteangel2011/

I hoped to make substantial progress homewards today, ideally Perros Guirec, but the wind and tides had other ideas. It’s spring tides, and not just an ordinary spring but both higher and lower than usual. This meant I could leave when I wanted, but had to wait for sufficient water to leave the mooring, which turned out to be 2.30. I could have left at about 10.30, but that would have given me a strong tide against me. Given that the wind was also against me, tacking into a strong foul tide simply isn’t an option, so 2.30 it was.

Given the conditions, it would have been after midnight had I pushed on to Perros Guirec, and even then the marina would not have been open to me as it is only open 1 hr either side of high water, so Perros Guirec was off the menu. After studying the charts I spotted a little know anchorage at Morgueriec that I’d never noticed before, and decided to try that.

I edged out of the l’Aberbendoit estuary, which is a narrow route that involves lots of changes of course to avoid unforgiving rocks. Fortunately I’d done my sums correctly, and the depth went no lower than 1.2m beneath the keel, but this bit was not comfortable.

At sea, I set the sails and commencing the tacking to Morgueriec. The seas were strangely flat for most of the trip, just getting lumpy for the last hour. I say strangely, as there was a moderate wind, enough to warrant one reef, and it was wind against a strong tide. These are the classic conditions for rough seas. I spent a few hours recording between 8-9 knots over the ground which helped reduced what should have been a 6 hour trip to 4.5 hrs.

Using the tide makes such a difference.

The sun was out so mostly a good day, but there is a definite feel that the summer is over, as the air was noticeably cooler. The decision has changed from whether or not to wear a swimming costume to whether or not to wear a fleece. More evidence of getting nearer home I guess.

The anchorage was fine, possibly a little bland, though subject to a bit of swell which didn’t make for the best of nights, but nonetheless better than the alternative.

Click here to go back to main blog page

http://www.sailblogs.com/member/whiteangel2011/