Great day!

Up at 0600, out by 0720, working by 0730, long before the day's heat was incapacitating.

Working from yesterday's reconnaissance, we were able to quickly start and complete all of the projects that had stymied us. I got the replacement solar charger installed, after the original failed during the crossing. When it failed, I just ran all the solar panel output to the house bank since they were always a bit discharged. The company that made the controller was contrite about the failure and shipped a new one at their expense, including free shipping to Raiatea. They were forgiven!

I got the replacement regulator installed, too, but could not complete it because I forgot the damned wiring directions. Arghhh… I also installed Conni's new galley light: an LED that uses very little current but produces a lot of light, even red light for night cooking. That's very useful. I also installed the new bilge pump, so it was a very productive day.

Conni got the Bimini erected, and de-stained the entire taffrail stainless steel tubing. It's only stainless on paper, it seems. Tomorrow, we'll install the solar panels, clearing some space in the saloon (as it's called).

The overcast weather was gratefully accepted since it kept us cool throughout the work day. We did a better job with drinking a lot of fluids, too.

At 1400, we pulled out and decided to spend the remaining day in a tour of the island. What a great idea!

As the "sacred island" for a good part of what is now the Society Islands, it has more of the "marae" than any other island, and all of the largest. Yes, they're interesting, but it was the stunning beauty of the island that captured and kept our attention.

Raiateans are a very social people, it seems, and they spend most of their spare time talking and enjoying their friends. Each little village had a community center with countless boule players, local and international music, and lots of grilled foods. People walked for miles to attend: families with kids, young singles, all made a beeline for the gathering. Groups of young people gathered and talked, swam and giggled, and seemed to be deeply involved in the community's life. There were some iPods or iPhones showing here and there, but for the most part, people were involved with face-to-face conversations.

And speaking of technology, they do have Internet, and we've seen more iPads and look-a-likes here than even in the States.

The island is certainly in the 21st Century since every house has electricity and running water, although many chose to forego the hot water. The one-and-only road around the island has lights and fire hydrants the entire way, although the road is narrow and obviously a converted footpath.

It's easy to understand how Europeans and others have come to stay in the South Pacific. It's idyllic, even today. There's enough civilization to be had if needed or wanted, but one can retreat to a place like Raiatea and have a vibrant and, for an American, unprecedented, sense of community. They are steeped in their own history since they live in the midst of its ruins. I would love to have seen the place before the missionaries changed their lives and culture forever.