Adonai : Rat Cay to Water Cay
05 May 2014 | Ragged Islands Bahamas
forever changing gg
May 1 23 44N: 66 02 W Aboard Adonai time will escape you, windsurfing and kiteboarding in marginal conditions gives the body exercise and the soul a chance to share gratitude. A sand hill in the distance catches Ted's attention so a party of four hike the jagged rocks cross a few small sand patches looking for treasure. Reaching the allure in 1 hour experiencing victory as we are standing on the towering sand dune. Personally I was very tired to start but once you see down the way it is difficult to stop. The view from 100 feet gives reference to the beauty of the rocky windward side of Rat Cay with brilliant blue waters and various greens filling the landscape across the island showing hog tracks in the sand which lead down to a large salt pond. This certainly is a great day. Night falls and morning rises to cross Square Rock Bay to the small settlement of Barraterre. Fuel and a few groceries are to be found here along with hospitable Calvin at the fuel pump and his mother Cora who are a blessing. Calvin invites us to his farm where we pull fresh onions from the ground and sour-sape from the trees. The population, jokes Calvin is 10, really around 50 or 60 total. Supplies are limited here. A borrowed wheel barrel and the horse power of Calvin makes transport of water, ice and more supplies for the next 6 days as we will attempt to pass over to the outer Bahama Ragged Islands a good 50 miles away with a strong head wind in our path. Time will tell.
Ragged Islands, Water Cay Bahamas 23 01N:75 43.W
Arriving Water Cay the Sand Sculpted Rocks rise to 100 feet partially covered with palms shimmering in the sunlight and the song of birds fill the light southeast wind along the shore our crossing has been blessed. Dropping anchor in the narrows of the island with the waves breaking from the outer reef we are protected by this small strip of land between the dunes. The sea meets the small land strip funneling through a rock passage forming an infinity pool to gaze upon. In the night sky the southern cross is rises to stand between the dunes of the narrows.
Exploring the surrounding reefs the life of the sea is abundant being welcomed by large lobsters cruising in the wilderness of the sea. Tucked in the rock crevices are large Nassau groupers hiding in holes while bright neon lines and colors of angel fishes light up the reef covered in colorful sponges sea fans and corals. Most dazzling to my eye is electric blue sequins like the heavens painted on small reef fish hidden into the scenery by their yellow tails melting into the pale yellow coral fingers and golden sponges. The colors and fish range from small tropicals in yellows oranges strips and dots most brilliant is the various blues to the finely colorful painted triggerfish and hog fish who invite the slings to hunt.
Another perspective is freeing as you climbing up the dunes through the palm forest giving view to the outer reefs on the windward side with small beaches filled with perfectly smooth driftwood scattered in the shore rocks. Several cave through rocks form blow holes when the sea is high.
We have company! Blue Water an 80 foot Bahama fishing vessel from Spanish Wells is stationed along the island fishing the area and collecting conch and whelk while lobster season is closed. The captain and his crew are hospitable and invite us aboard sharing information of the sea and area. Dominican fishing boats have been coming in the area and causing concern for the future of a healthy fishing ground for the future generations to come. Size limits are crucial to the preservation of abundant fish and lobster for the years to come. Unfortunately a decline is noticed by Captain Hank who has been fishing the Bahama Bank for the last 46 years.
Sunday morning arrives as what we believe is the first AA meeting out at Water Cay on the Ragged Islands of the Bahamas and for sure the first aboard Adonai with 8 present the day has a blessed beginning. The wind switched to the west leaving the outer reef calm inviting adventurous hearts to explore. The reef filled with past mounds of coral branches extending outward larger than myself. With new life of purple and yellow fans intermixed with irredesent leafy corals of purples and blues, a rainbow of color is seen along with large fish in this surprisingly warm water.
It is now May 5th and we arrived George town after a couple of rough nights out on the Ragged Islands because of the wind shifting from the west. Adonai rocking high in the big swell through the night with the addition of a squall line approaching raises the unexpected excitement as the sun passed down the horizon. A long day motoring into the wind against the pounding surf we leave uncultivated sand sculpted dunes looming in the distance. Facing the wind with speed reading out at 20 the shallow waters rise up into steep constant breaking waves crashing and pounding on Adonai. Loosing engine power and a sail reefed from last weeks tear the seas subside as we approach land in the distance. Sailing is an adventure: " If its going to happen its going to happen out there" Arriving safe it is nice to be still waters in George Town, yet it will take a while for my joggled brain to settle back into place.