Rain continues into our fourth day. Viento Azul feels as if we are on a horse doing a high-jump course as we leap across the sea.  At one point, a white squall, which had blended into the horizon, came upon us, blasting us with 30-knot winds. The weather has been unusual and unpredictable. The forecast of subsiding wind was  still a mystery of when it would appear — that is our hope to get east.   We have been in this position before, sailing from Fiji to Hawaii. Heading into the wind for so long becomes very fatiguing. The slamming and banging continue on. Eventually we get a breather, only long enough to realize the waves have quit pounding our hulls. Yet it is still sloppy, looking out to 3 - 5 foot hills moving like a Maytag special. Showers came down
the entire day. Cushions in, cushions out became a new game on board. Our point of sail is 30 - 45 degrees to the wind at 15- 23. As night fell, we saw the option of tucking in behind Isla Mujeres. Changing coarse heading  downwind at 11 - 12 knots, we slide in at 10:50 p.m. At this point in time, being still is one of the biggest blessings one could receive. 

Morning came early, and the debate to stay and wait for a good weather window or head back out was weighed. The calm water was so inviting to stay, but with no break in the weather coming for weeks, we opted to head back out. The seas had calmed since the previous night and the day was much smoother. 

A 15-pound Bonita was caught and released. Our sails were still double reefed and we sped across the water, traveling between 7 and 9 knots. We all were refreshed and the outlook was promising. But by the afternoon there was a switch, and we were on a bucking bronco who wanted out! 

The current was northwest, taking us sideways like a crab. Our compass setting was 65 degrees, yet we were traveling at 40 degrees. We were headed in the opposite direction we wanted to go. The fight for east was on. At sunset, out of the entire sky was one rain cloud which stuck to us like velcro; everything around us turned pitch black. Which is very disorientating and our AIS went out durning the storm.

Sunrise comes on day six, and we are still rocking and rolling, keeping our expectation of a current switch to our favor. Up until now, there was hardly any ship traffic. We had two sailboats behind us, both headed for Key West. This was a comfort. Around us, about 12 miles out were ships appearing in every direction. One that crossed our stern was “Kezama.”This ship measured 2/10th of a mile long, with a 197-foot beam and a 65-foot draft. We would be like a mosquito on their hull. The beauty of having AIS is to be able to have all this information displayed on a screen. Modern day sailing has many luxuries that did not exist in the not-too-far away past. Captain Ted remembers his dad measuring the depth of channels with a line having a rock tied on to it. Our location at this time was 24 10’ N 85 47” W  Our speed was reduced to 4 knots due to the current. 

The day passed into a sunset sky filled with small animal-shaped clouds.  I imagine these as God’s heavenly stuffed animals, which brings my mind back to childhood and the delight that still reminds me. Another night underway is ahead of us, and we have a new visitor. Landing on Captain's Ted’s shoulder is the sweetest little bird. The bird commenced sitting on Brandon’s shoulder, then Greg’s. Finally he took a rest and disappeared. Night watch was on as we alternated in two-hour shifts to watch radar, compass heading, and sailing conditions. 

While tacking our way to Key West on day 7, a sea bird appears over our fishing lines which have been silent. We are working our way east the best we can, taking ground like a snail. We are within a 20-mile latitude with Key West but 150 nautical miles west. With these conditionings, with the wind  directly where we want to go, we need a favorable current which has been sparse and forever changing. 

The two sailboats tracking with us,“Traveler” and “Tropical,” are still within our sight, and we have had radio contact. Our location is 24 04’N 84 51’ W, wind is still at 45 degrees, speed over ground is 5.4, and the apparent wind is 16 and dropping, a praise to God. Also a thank you to our praying friends. If we were headed with the wind and sea, it would be a lovely day. Beating into the wind becomes fatiguing, but the only choice we have is to surrender and take our small victories of ground. Otherwise, we could make a turn and head to Cuba or Mexico. We do have a choice!

Finally, at lunch time, the wind and seas subside where we can motor and make a beeline towards Key West.  We have a report of a 36-hour window of light winds. Fuel is down, but it looks like we will have enough for two days of motoring. 

Captain Ted sighted two whales to our starboard side. As we neared, the one whale was slapping his tail on the water while the other one broached until we passed. They looked to be a possible 20 feet long. 

The next excitement of the day was something white ahead, directly in our path. As it floated by, it was identified as a fresh milk jug. That is how exciting it can become on board with many days out to sea, because the blue expanse of the water being met with blue sky leaves not too much sensory stimulation. All of which is a good day. The other kind of excitement, entailing endangering circumstances, one can live without.

At the end of the day, it was “fish on!” A grand Mahi Mahi, 15 -20 pounds, a beautiful fish, was jumping the water as he tried to free himself from the hook.  

The night sky was the absolute best.  The stars were speaking of heaven’s delight, the glory of an Almighty God who looks down from His throne on earth below. The clear sky on calm seas made the last days of discomfort worth this very moment in time.


Durning the night a radio call came over channel 16. The Coast Guard was searching for a capsized vessel and an abandon dingy in our vicinity. S/V Tropical happened to come across the wreckage and be of service to the Coast Guards. No lives were lost to our knowledge. You never know what you will come across on the open sea. 

To be continued …………..A contrary sail but the sun is still rising in the morning!