Captain Mauro left Zadar for some personal time so Neal and Vanessa took the big blue boat off alone. First stop Otacic Arta Mali, off the Otak (island, Otacic is tiny island) of Murter. Murter!! Sounds ominous, but it was perfect. Small, protected from every direction, clear water, a few small boats that came in from Murter for swimming or fishing and profound quiet. No discos, no shipyard noises, no traffic. We swam, even though the water is a cool 72-74 degrees, but on a hot day, that feels wonderful. Then on to Primošten, called the Mini-Dubrovnik because it occupies a perfectly domed little island that is postcard cute, complete with a church and steeple on top. Sadly, Primošten is open to the west and even with a northern wind, a little swell builds up and comes into the bay. By dinnertime it was gone. By midnight, it was Mini-Ponza. We were in the cockpit at 3:30 and got back to bed about 5:30. Then Trogir for a night, to seek shelter from a slight Bora. We had decent wind protection, but a nice disco and choppy water kept us from sleeping too well. This derelict boat, which must have a good story because it is a fine boat, but for the rotting neglect, still sits at anchor, as it sat last year.

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The Riva, or waterfront, was it's beautiful self, bustling with tourists and café goers, market stalls and tour boats.

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Vis is a day's sail from Trogir, heading towards Komiza on the western side. Vis was used exclusively as a military base until 1989. As a result, it is relatively undeveloped and whatever they call "unspoiled." I'm not sure tourism destroys an ancient place, it seems to lead to restoration, economic improvement, and (Gads!) gentrification of often depressed areas. What seems unspoiled to me is the lack of organized tour busses, boats, and packs of seasoned citizens following a chipper young lady with a brightly colored umbrella. None of that here. Hardly anywhere to park a dinghy, tho. We had dinner at Bako, which was recommended, but arrived after all the good fish had been picked. We had over-priced grouper and a really bad local white wine, while a front rolled in, causing rail to rail rolling all night! Otherwise, delightful place. Next day we sailed around the south side to Vis town. Decided to stay a couple of days. Our Fanese friend Marcello recommended this place, saying he was the first Italian allowed back in 1989. We almost got him aboard, but work kept him from joining us. Vis is still lovely, Marcello!