18th July
Image: A nonchalant sheep whilst cycling near Gairloch.

Monday morning was a complete contrast to Sunday, blue skies and warmth greeted us as we popped up out of the hatch to see Ellan Vannin coming alongside, who we'd met in Lochmaddy. Despite what seemed like great weather we decided to stay another two days in Gairloch as the wind was forecast to still be strong from the north, although it was hard to tell as the harbour was well sheltered from northerly winds. A Danish boat set off, aiming for the Shiants - they arrived back 4 hours later citing fog and strong wind, so a decision well made on our behalf.

We took a walk up to the waterfalls in Flowerdale which were thundering after yesterday's rain. We'd have kept dry feet if I hadn't suggested a little off-roading to look at another waterfall I'd spotted - there was no path and the ground was like a giant sponge. We didn't get that great a view of the falls either; we should have stuck to the advice in the film "An American Werewolf in London" - don't stray off the path!

For the afternoon we got the bikes out and cycled out through Gairloch, Strath and Big Sand and up a long hill on the road out to the Rubha Reidh lighthouse. The weather was t-shirt warm but out at sea we could see the fog bank that the Danes had encountered, hiding Skye and the Outer Hebrides. We turned back at Peterburn, enjoying the weeeeeeeee of the downhill back to Big Sand where we made a detour onto the beach. Golden, clean sand with hardly anyone on it and the surreal sight of a teenage boy walking about in the sea playing his guitar!


We made it back to Emerald before a big black cloud that had been looming in the distance arrived and drinks with our neighbours Susan and John, rounded off a very enjoyable day.

19th July
The mizzle had returned so we headed to the local Gairloch museum which was pretty busy with people escaping the wet. It was the sort of rain that you don't notice until 20 minutes later when you're soaked. The museum had the old light from Rubha Reidh lighthouse - the precision cutting on the huge pieces of glass was impressive. They also had a bit of history on the geology of the place, more information (including a photo of the servicemen who died) on the Fairy Loch plane crash and displays on what life was like for crofters in days gone by.

Huge scones and coffee at the Mountain Coffee cafe and another browse in their great bookshop (we have a list for Christmas presents now) before heading back.