Anchorage off Islas Cies - Emerald is in the middle

Monday 2nd September
The best beach in the world? So says The Guardian and armed with our permits we headed there on a hot and windless day. The island is within a national park and permission is required to anchor there. We haven't heard of boats being kicked out for not having a permit but we had the time to apply. Application is a 2 stage process - first we sent an email with scanned copies of passport, ICC, SSR and application form. 3 days later our permit to navigate arrived by email. You then logon to the park website and choose the dates you want to visit.

The anchorage wasn't crowded and we parked just behind the yellow swimming buoys off the main beach but near the dinghy access route so less distance to row. First impressions ashore were good - rocky, rugged islands with white sand beaches which were soft to walk on and not too crowded, but glad we weren't here at the weekend. The temperature of the water is definately not tropical though.

There are walking trails on both islands which are joined by sand dunes and a green looking lagoon. Beyond the trails is a nature reserve where they prefer you not to go. The walk on Isla de Norte was shadey under eucalyptus and pine trees. We saw a few lizards and lots of crickets and walked up to the highest accessible viewpoint with views to Isla de Faro to the south.


View looking south to San Martino

By evening time most people headed home on the ferries and maybe 15 boats in the anchorage and a few people were left at the campsites ashore. Beautiful sunset.

Tuesday 3rd September
Today's walk was up to the lighthouse on Isla Faro. It was quite high but the walk was made easier with lots of zigzags. Great views all the way up looking south to the next island San Martino which is a bird sanctuary and north to Monteagudo (Steep Mount), although a bit hazy today. The Atlantic side of the island is all jaggedy rocks and steep cliffs down to the swirling sea below. The granite rocks have been carved into interesting shapes by the weather and higher up are coloured orange from the lichen that grows there. The eastern side is softer with beaches and a more gentle slope down to the sea.

Most of the birds we saw were seagulls. In the lagoon between the islands you can see huge mullet, some wrasse and I spotted a blenny sunbathing on a rock just below the surface. There were shoals of other tiny fish too.

These are lovely islands and we've been very lucky with the weather, the only downside is the water is way too cold for swimming despite the heat (I did try and it was very painful!). Oh and ice creams are a bit pricy!


View looking north to Monteagudo