The wind has gone unseasonably south during the last week with at least another few days of southerly winds to come. It seems the winds are due to the jet stream having split with one half poking Scotland and the other pushing towards the Azores bringing low pressure systems with it. Southerly winds are no good for getting from Lisbon to the Algarve so we are stuck at the mo.

Monday 23rd September
We spent a manic day on Monday, despite slight hangovers, rushing around to squeeze the sights in with trips on the tram, elevadors and walking, walking, walking. The weather later in the week was forecast to go rainy so we wanted to make the most of the weather.

A train runs from Parque des Nacoes right to the centre. From there we wandered our way around the Baixa area. At a metro station we bought a day travel pass for €6 which gave us unlimited travel on buses, trams, metro and elevadors for the day. We had a bit of trouble trying to catch a tram from the Praca da Figueira square as every one was privately booked so we gave up and had lunch instead.

We found a cafe where you could sit outside for an additional cost or stand inside at the counter. There was a huge range of pastry and bread products but what caught our eye was a meat sandwich - a kind of flakey pastry but with chicken, bacon and chorizo in it. It is made as a kind of pie and then sliced. It was delicious and only €2.


At the top of the elevador

We then took an elevador (a funicular railway) up into the Bairro Alto. Here every available space within reach of a spray can was covered in graffiti, some of it good, most of it just making the place look untidy. We wandered around the narrow, cobbled streets until we happened upon a tram stop with a tram waiting and people getting on. We jumped on and stood for a few stops before a seat came free. The tram driver however was the first grumpy Portuguese person we'd met - I don't think he was getting much job satisfaction!


Shall we drive the tram whilst the driver is away?

We had a great ride up to the Alfama, wobbling our rickety way up steep hills and down roads so narrow there was only a few inches space either side of the tram. At our destination we hopped onto another tram heading back down into the Baixa where we got off.

Down on the edge of the Baixa we'd come across a lift that went partway up the hill to the Castelo de Sao Jorge. It wasn't very well signposted but was free and all gleaming and shiny new. From here we could take another lift or some steps, we chose the steps for the sake of our health! A few more steep streets and we arrived at the castle. Not only were the streets steep but also the entry cost of €7.50, but we decided to go in anyway.

We passed a pleasant few hours walking around the castle walls, Colin being very brave as there were no fences and some long drops that did his vertigo no favours. There is a small museum with archeological finds that were interesting and a small area of excavations. The interior of the castle is bare with the walls to walk around and a camera obscura in one of the towers. The resident family of peacocks were entertaining, hopping around on the surrounding rooftops, the baby ones squeeking around our feet after cake crumbs. The visit was good but I don't think it was worth €7.50 but I guess it is comparable to historic sites in the UK.

By now our feet were threatening to go on strike so it was back on the bus for the couple of miles back to the marina.


Never seen a peacock with white feathers before