Taormina from the sea - a long way up

Saturday 13th September
Having sailed around half of it's coastline and visited it's islands for the last two weeeks we finally set foot on Sicily proper. We decided to endure the swell with a day out at Taormina. A faint zigzag path ran from behind the pebbly beach off where we were anchored up to the town and we'd seen a few people going up and down during the day before. We rowed ashore, tied Crazy Pony to a tree and used the long tunnel behind the beach to pass under the railway line. Before long we were cursing whoever built Taormina so high up as we trudged up the path under a cloudless sky. The path was in bad shape in places, perhaps that's why there was a sign that said 'landslides' on it in Italian which we chose to ignore.

We were definitely glowing by the time we reached the top and headed into the communal gardens for some shade and a rest. The gardens had great views and contained some lovely follies and memorials, including one to a local navy man who rode these torpedo type things to blow up warships, including two British ships off Alexandria in Egypt. A very dicy job, during which he died after being shot whilst trying to attack Gibraltar. Colin tried to befriend two green parrots in a cage but I don't think they understood English.

Having topped up our internet at a tabaci/betting shop our chores were done and we could get into sightseeing. I loved the gaudily decorated ceramic pots and plates for sale, especially those in the shape of heads. The streets weren't too crowded although we did get caught up in a couple of guided tour groups. The tour guides held up numbered paddles shaped like table tennis bats and could be heard calling out the numbers as they tried to valiantly call the wanderers back into the fold.


Clockwise from top left: Piazza del Duomo; one of the many narrow alleys; ceramic head; statue in communal gardens; Piazza IX Aprile; folly in communal gardens; Porta Catania; the torpedo on which two men rode to direct it to it's target; a wicker mini for the wicker man?; talking to the parrots; Cathedral of San Nicolo; the Wűnderbar

There were lots of interesting things to see as we weaved our way around narrow streets and then down the main street Corso Umberto I. Piazza IX Aprile gave us a good view down to the bay so we could see Emerald was ok. On one side of the piazza is the Wűnderbar, once a hangout of the stars such as Liz Taylor and Richard Burton. We checked out the price list thinking a drink here would be fun but at €7.50 for a beer (it didn't say whether that was large or small either) we realised it wasn't a place for the likes of us. Instead we had enormous pizzas at one of the many restaurants.

It was much easier heading down the landslide-path and by the time we got back onboard the swell had almost flattened out. The edge of a thunderstorm passed over and gave Emerald a much needed wash.