Sailing with YELO

24 November 2019 | Ua Pou
16 November 2019 | Vaitahu , Tahuata
03 November 2019 | Ua Pou
02 November 2019
19 October 2019 | Vaitahu , Tahuata
05 October 2019
03 October 2019 | Hiva Oa
02 October 2019 | Hao to Fatu Hiva
30 September 2019 | Hao to Fatu Hiva
29 September 2019 | Hao to Fatu Hiva
28 September 2019 | Hao
27 September 2019 | Hao
25 September 2019 | Hao
18 September 2019 | Hao
09 September 2019 | Hao
26 August 2019 | Hao
17 August 2019 | Hao Tuamotu
16 June 2019 | Hoa

The festival is starting dec 16th

26 November 2019
Rolf Fischer | always 29C
boats are getting in to position and we found it not easy to set our stern anchor. After 5 trials we are happy ...if it holds .So far so good.
Nobody is really sure how all the yachts fit in their designated space. I thinks its gonna be a mess with yachts squeezing in where there is no space.
The organizing comity is friendly but not very organized.There will be 1800 artists and support staff coming and a few cruise ships unloading hundreds if not thousands of tourists.They only have 10 licensed taxis and nobody knows how the masses will be transported.Everybody needs many licenses and permits to drive a taxi and you wont get those in 2 weeks.Not in Polynesia anyhow. The fishermen that take passengers to Nuku Hiva etc all have no license to transport people....but they can all go fishing with 10 "friends" :-) The cops will be to busy to check anybody, we both get ready for a hectic mess, But they did organize it in 2007 ,so they will be able to deal with all the tourists arriving like an avalanche.Its gonna be fun

Back in Ua Pou

24 November 2019 | Ua Pou
Rolf Fischer | Always29C
Fast sail.. No more Gps. Orderd on from the China man. Got best spot for festival. Had to re set effing stern achor 4 times. Cloudy. Rain washed down the salty yelo. All good here

Nuku Hiva 2019

16 November 2019 | Vaitahu , Tahuata
Rolf
after a monster effort to retrieve our stern anchor, we were sailing again. It took 2 South EEfricans and a French sailor trying to pull it out with their dinghy or by diving. But nothing moved it. It was stuck way down in
very fine sand. Excellent holding you can say !! I had to bring the rope back on the boat and bring Yelo close to the beach to get a steep angle above the anchor and rip out with both engines. Once it was loose the
chain had to come up by hand and the gelcoat took another beating. Oh well, i was exhausted and yapped at Daniela a few times for no reason!!
28 yachts are here. I hope they dont want to go to that festival.
Were just going to get our mail and shop for some whole wheat flour (the only place in the Marquesas) and then we go back to Ua Pou to hopefully get an anchor spot.

GAUGUIN IS A BASTARD

03 November 2019 | Ua Pou
ROLFO | always 29C
I am in Ua Pou again after a year. And as I walk thru town, I remembered a conversation I had with locals that gave us a ride.
It started as usual about this German sailor that got killed in Nuku Hiva. One women went on and on about how innocent that Marquisan killer is in reality. He was raped by this German and his wife was in it and
happy that her husband got what he deserved bla bla bla. And then it went on about white justice here in Polynesia. Whenever there is a dispute between a Polynesian and a white person ....its the Polynesians that
goes to jail. Never the white man. This was all new to me and I was curious and listened to her story. " Look " she says, " It was the same with Gauguin that bastard " . In French : "Gauguin c'est un vrai salaud" and
the white justice protected him, apparently. Or so she said. I asked her what was Gauguins crime? "Oh, you must know: he had his maison de jouir and kept young girls there. He painted them naked and slept with
them, the bastard. He got them pregnant and there are many descendants from him in Hiva Oa and Tahiti.
So he didn't just have ONE girl, he had many , I asked. " Yes, many, the bastard!!"
I listened to this story and thought about it for a while and then I asked: " But if there where many girls as you say, there where also many parents and grand parents of those girls, no? " "How come, they let this
happen? " Silence...no answer. "White justice or not, I am also a father of two daughters and I am pretty sure what I would have done." More silence. " If an old scruffy, painter with a opium and alcohol habit
would knock on my door and ask if he could paint naked pictures of my teenage daughters and sleep with both of them ....I would yell at him and tell him go to hell you fucking bastard. I don't need a white justice
system for that. Just throw him out the door!! Now there was total silence. After a while somebody changed the subject to the beautiful fruits that grow on this island....
Its common here, to blame the "white man" for just about everything that went wrong here. Its easy that way.
It would be a lot harder to say that parents didn't have enough money to feed all kids in the family . And just like in Europe a hundred years ago, you gave the hungry kids away to a farmer, a rich man, the
church...anybody that could feed them. Or maybe the age of consent was much lower then. Or the age when a girl could get married. I am sure it was different, just read captain Blighs memoirs. He wasn't happy
that his crew had sex with local women .....or girls. I don't know.

To come back to Gauguin: He was broke and went back to France,trying to sell his art. He wanted 1500 Francs for his now famous " Nafea Faa Ipoipo " when will you marry? Nobody took it . After 20 some
years, Staechelin, a Swiss collector had the courage to buy it in Geneva. It was not popular, but he paid 20 000 Francs. To much naked flesh and a weird style with those funny looking natives in it ...Weird,
sleazy,dirty art.
So the family kept on collecting and had a lot of success buying and selling, not just Gauguin. The collection was too big and most of it was hanging in a Basel Museum , for the public to see.
And when it was time to sell, they where trying to sell it to Basel. But the poor Basel politicians with their billions in Chemical and banking money, could not or would not match the offer from the Emir of Qatar. So
it went to Qatar for 300 million $, a world record.
People screamed: "Qatar will fall to Isis or the Taliban and they will rip it to pieces in the name of Allah!! So now the family became bastards, selling it to an Arab...and those are bastards too.
The guy in charge said:" If you cant sell anything , you shouldn't be an art dealer" The prices went sky high and often after that they collapse. They thought it was a good time and they sold. And now they are the
bastards.
When I heard about them selling it to Qatar, I went to the last show in Basel and looked at it. At Beyelers I was at the door at 8 am and it was packed already. Hundreds of people stood around the Gauguin
masterpiece. I had time to be close to it and admired it. It has radiant power. The bastard was good, and only now we start to appreciate it. Never mind the young girls...its awesome. Or was it just the millions
that impressed me, I don't think so. I find it sad, what many people worried then , had become true. The painting has not been shown since it was sold to the Emir. It sits in an air con box, somewhere. Or in the
Emirs bedroom. Nobody knows.
There is a certain curse on this painting...now the Emir is the bastard :-)

UA POU

02 November 2019
Rolf Fischer | Always29C
A fast sail and loads of space in the smal harbor

Back in Vaitahu , Tahuata

19 October 2019 | Vaitahu , Tahuata
Always29C
It's been a years since we were here in this pretty bay. The swell is almost zero compared to the roly anchorage in Hiva Oa �...Yuuuaccck . And they still have strong
�"Bullets�" (wind gusts) coming down the mountain. It doesn't matter, the holding is excellent and we are happy to be out of Hiva Oa. The unlimited fast web from the
boatyard was a plus, but it's just not comfortable in that bay.
I look up the road to the north and I see my �"favorite�" bull still grazing at the same spot. He starts kicking sand with his front huffs as you try to walk past him. I am
chicken shit and wait for a car, unfortunately there is not much traffic here. But the mango , avocado and pamplemousse trees are all past his grazing spot. Live is tuff.
Daniela just walks past him and when he starts his shuffling she just tells him to fuck off and he listens�....
Happy that the new Kiwi prop is doing well, even better than the original Volvo props. No leaks on the boat and it's a great feeling to maneuver with two engines
again. Hope it lasts for a few months.
So the idea is: to harvest as many fruits as we can, and make that great chutney. Or the fabulous heavy coconut curry,made out of a fresh coco. If we don't pick the
fruits, the pigs and wild goats will have em . And like anywhere in Polynesia; the locals don't eat fruits coming from a tree. I have yet to see a local eating a mango!!!
They love the apples from New Zealand and pears from France�....at a hefty price off course.
Life is good. We just did our book keeping and found out that we only spend 11 000 US$ in one year. That includes Rolfos trip to Canada and 1800 Can$ shopping. A
new propeller for 1600$, plus 500$ for small parts at e-bay and that 1100$ boatyard bill. Most expenses are for Yelo. We went out twice for food in one year. Once we
got lured into a pizza �"feast�" in Rikitea�...yuuuaaccck. They make it with �"Oz mouse trap�" the disgustoid glue, the Australians call cheese. And once a good chicken
stew at Henrys in Nuku Hiva....not bad. The rest of the time we just look at what the local restaurants make and �.....pass by. Not for us; �"merci beaucoup�". So if you
take away most boat expenses its 270$ per person. Not bad, when you think that we find good quality fruits and veggies everywhere�...mostly for free.
I am trying hard to make these 270$ by playing the stock market. But at the moment Trump is screwing everything up and have been even for two years huuuuh
hooo�... sad. Better times will come.
Next stop is Ua Pou 68 miles.
Vessel Name: YELO
Vessel Make/Model: CATANA 431
Hailing Port: LANGKAWI
Crew: ROLF & DANIELA
YELO's Photos - Main
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Created 10 January 2019