Sailing with YELO

16 June 2019 | Hoa
10 June 2019 | Gambier to Hao
09 June 2019 | Gambier to Hao
08 June 2019 | Gambier to Hao
07 June 2019 | Gambier to Hao
30 May 2019 | Gambier
17 May 2019 | Gambier
04 May 2019 | Gambier
28 April 2019 | Gambier
08 April 2019 | Gambier
28 March 2019 | Gambier
24 March 2019 | Gambier
24 March 2019 | Gambier
02 February 2019 | Gambier
02 February 2019 | Gambier

Hao and the dentist

16 June 2019 | Hoa
Rolfo
We had another fabulous day in Hao. Cleared in with the friendly Gendarme and then headed towards the clinic. A few people were waiting and soon they got the process going to organize the thyroid pills for Daniela. Everything medical is almost free and friendly here. But like most things in France, they make it complicated for no apparent reason. So you wait while they call the pharmacy in Papeete to see if you're prescription from Rikitea is good enough for Hao. Meanwhile I got to see the young dentist. Like all well trained professionals, he is from France. He has adapted well and calls me by my first name, tu and not vous and fixes my broken filling. He did a excellent job and when I wanted to pay he said no need : its free. Vive La France. While Daniela waited for me, she got to know a few locals that expressed their gratitude that we come here, despite the reputation that they are all contaminated from Mururoa. While they did the nuclear testing, the military used Hao as a base. When the planes and people returned from Mururoa they were washed down and the soldiers were checked. One lady said : �"Look at me : I was born here and I don't have TWO HEADS!! �" The army base has been shut down for many years and no contamination can be measured here. Unfortunately the army had a lot of material, like cars, trucks, engines and pumps etc etc . Rather then giving it to the people they threw it into the lagoon. I have to find out the reason why they did that. Its crazy. A big piece of land has been sold to some Chinese fish farm. They were supposed to grow a lot of tropical fish here and create jobs. But so far nothing is being done. The people live off copra and all pearl farms have been shut down due to pearl prices that went way to low. There is no tourism, only a few yachts. There is only one guest house were we do fast internet, but I haven seen any guests so far. I asked I copra worker if he misses the French army and he said : In the beginning it was ruff for us. No more jobs , but slowly we got used to it and now its ok. Most yachts rafted up in the old military harbor. Its around fifteen now and gossip has it that they all argue with each other about space and ;�"you're gona touch me and you touched me�" etc etc. I am glad that I am the only one that dared to go into the town harbor in the last 15 years. One other French boat followed me and we get along very well. Its a little cheaper to buy food in Hao and the shops have real isles and give receipts. I got myself a giant 2,2kg hormone chicken for 5$ .Booze and soft drinks are also very pricey here. I started to make wine with bitter oranges from Gambier�...its bubbling all ready. I wont have much time to explore the island. On Thursday I leave for Montreal for a month and Daniela stays with the boat. And we still have work on the propeller and solar and batteries�...ooof

I need a facashion! :-)

Docked in downtown harbor Otepa, Hao , Tuamotu

11 June 2019 | Hao
Rolf
It was an eventful first day on land in Hao. First I noticed that all locals are extremely friendly. The shouted hello at us, even though they were far away in their garden and everybody had time to talk and laugh. It took us a while to get to the old military harbor where all the yachts docked. Some familiar faces crossed us and they all had a grim look on their face saying: �"It's full, no place for another yacht.�" Once we arrived we saw only 12 yachts and tons of space but not much help from any of the sailors except for April and Kane from the UK. I asked a few if I could go along side, but Americans never heard of such a thing and only gave me a lame smile. When I suggested this to a German sailor, he was seriously opposed to this idea. It would block his solar panels. So he didn't want me anywhere near his �"Segelschiff�". I always thought sailors should listen to one another and help if there is a problem. Rolfo had a problem: at anchor it's extremely uncomfortable and often not even safe. There are some serious waves here and often bigger than outside the lagoon. But this sailor from Deutschland had no empathy of any kind. Just go away from me, don't bother me with your boat ..I was puzzled. So I told him: �"Joachim you have now officially outed yourself as an Arschloch�" !!(asshole). There must have been a lot of people that told him this before, because he showed no reaction what so ever. We have met many nice sailors from Germany. I believe people with such an egoistic look at things should better stay home, they have not understood what it is to be among boaters. April and Kane on the contrary started to draw diagrams on where and how I could anchor and hold Yelo off the other boats. Kane offered to dive and inspect the moorings etc etc I was really touched by their genuine help. Off we walked back to town and talked some more with the locals. They told me no other yacht had ever used this harbor, except ANTOINE, the famous French Rock singer that became a sailor. So �"Banana Split�", that's the name of his cat, was here. Cool. So, if Antoine can come in �...I know Antoine, I have met him, can I come in?�" Mais Oui, yes off course. Waiting at the Post office I chatted up the local Police man and he brought me to the Majors assistant and he said if you have no keel�...it's all yours, BIENVENU!! We prepared some lines and came in and found 3.5 m up until the harbor and then an even 2.1m everywhere inside. Another local man that said he was Alain Colas �"mechanic�" help us tie her up and now we are in such flat calm waters its unbelievable after 4 months in rocky and roly Gambier. We also met a very old woman that waved to us and insisted we take some of her pearls. She was so cute. Unfortunately she didn't have any teeth left and we had a hard time understanding her. But her big hug needed no words. Her granddaughter was able to help us understand her. We were touched and I was even a little shook up, because we never got such a warm welcome in Gambier, but often in the Marquesas. As Daniela and I walked along the road a few wild bushes had green beans on them. I showed those to locals but they didn't know what it is and that we should not eat this. So what's the story about no fresh veggies or anything in the Tuamotus?? Finally an older lady confirmed that those were �"haricots verts�" and said they have them Yellow and green like at home�....hi hi hi soon we are going to harvest. Looking at the size of the locals�....I don' think they eat veggies either!!

arrived in Hao

10 June 2019 | Gambier to Hao
Rolf
Easy passage thru the pass, instead of 10 or 20 knots against us we had zero knots and are now anchored in front of town. One propeller doesn't unfold anymore. I guess its old and worn out.othing that cant be cured with money (new props) !!! The night was pleasant sailing , slowing down to 4,1 knots to be at the pass at 7h30 like predicted.

great day of sailing

09 June 2019 | Gambier to Hao
Rolf
Hao is slowly getting closer. We had to change the spinnaker for a smaller Genoa to slow down a bid. We have to be at the entrance at 6 am tomorrow in order to get slack tide. We are 3 yachts entering and we all hope to make it the first time. This pass has sometimes currents of more than 10 knots and entry is not possible for any boat unless you have 200 hp. The strong currents happen when there is a lot of swell outside and that water crashes over the reef in to the lagoon and must get out thru that pass. We are staying in touch with other boats heading the same way. We are all very happy to have waited for a long time to get this perfect all be it a bid slow passage. The sea temperature has risen from 25 to 28.5 and the air is now 26C at midnight. No need for socks and heavy jackets at night , we are back in the summer weather. All is well on board but no fish yet

2 more days 223miles

08 June 2019 | Gambier to Hao
Rolf
It was worth the long wait .we have clear skies and steady SE winds bringing us slowly to Hao.If all goes well with the weather and the Yelo we should arrive Monday early morning at the entrance of Hao

slow progress ,light winds

07 June 2019 | Gambier to Hao
Rolf
We were looking for a nice weather window...now we have it .No squalls ,no rain and not much wind. If we make it in 4 days we would be lucky. We are crawling at 2-4 knots. 351 miles to go . But all is good on board. No news either. Can somebody send me the Federer-Nadal results...merci beaucoup
Vessel Name: YELO
Vessel Make/Model: CATANA 431
Hailing Port: LANGKAWI
Crew: ROLF & DANIELA
YELO's Photos - Main
No Photos
Created 10 January 2019