Sailing with YELO

15 September 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
15 September 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
15 September 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
08 September 2020 | Hao Tuamotu
07 September 2020 | Oteba Hao, Tuamotu
03 September 2020 | Oteba Hao, Tuamotu
26 August 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
26 August 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
21 August 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
21 August 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
19 August 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
14 August 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
14 August 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
14 August 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
01 August 2020 | Hao Tuamotu
27 July 2020 | Oteba Hao, Tuamotu
25 July 2020 | Mangareva, Gambier Islands
24 July 2020 | Mangareva, Gambier Islands
10 July 2020 | Rikitea , Gambier
19 June 2020 | Gambier

peeling those coconuts

15 September 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
When you see coconuts drying anywhere in Polynesia, you haven't a clue how much work it is to fill a 25 kilo bag. We helped for half a day and now i have sore hands and Daniela has a few bruises and a big blister.

Here are the steps they have to do, so you get your coconut oil in your heated kitchen.

You start collecting all fallen nuts from the ground. A steel hook helps you picking them up and when you swing it towards the pile you hit the stick with the backside of your machete and the nut gets off the hook and flies to the precise spot. It takes practise and now i
know why the Polynesian's are so good in "Petoncle". Next step is to break the nuts open with a big axe,hopefully right in the middle. Then you have 2 equal half's. You take out the sponge that grows in the older ones .This you make bread with, eat it for desert or feed it
to the pigs. The split open half's you pile up into a wall in a windy sunny spot to dry for 5 days. After that Rolfo and Daniela sit on a small bench next to that wall. A gunny sack on the bench so the nut doesn't slide away from you. A steel spoon with a sharp end helps you
to pry the nut out of the shell and into a bag. The husk you keep on a pile for BBQ and for a smothering fire when its nonos season.
A strong man or beefy girl carries the bags to the drying field. It has no trees for maximum sunshine and a frame to cover the white flesh with corrugated iron sheets for the night or the occasional rain shower. You do this for another 5 days and then the expert has to
separate the inferior quality from the good ones. Then you must bag them to exactly 25 kilos. The bags are kept in a dry place and a few copra boys share the gasoline for the 5 hour boat ride to the copra shed in town. They time it for the arrival of the cargo boat that
takes them to Tahiti. Before they load the bags , a local representative checks the weight and opens a few bags for quality control. They get 140 xpf /kilo or 1.40US$ or only 50xpf for second quality .Its a lot of work for the lousy 30$ you get for a heavy bag. But they are
lucky here. The French government heavily subsidizes the industry. I haven't googled what a Vietnamese,Thai or Philipino worker gets for the same!! I am sure its peanuts.
Its the only source of income here. If the French would not support it, everybody would move to Tahiti and the Tuamotus would be empty.
Its hard work, but you can do it together and blab along the way. I did a few hours with Dominique from Lausanne and then a lot faster with Gill pushing us ,Daniela, Lise, Dominique and Rolfo and the dogs hanging around fro scraps. A family can live with 50 bags a
year,with no money for extra vacation etc. They are not rich here, but a lot happier than the city freaks i know.

Fishing and Solar panels

15 September 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
Gill, Timy and Aurelin, went to the outer reef to get some grouper for us. After 2 hours they came back with 50!! fish . They were cut into fillets and soaked in vinegar and salt . You hang them up on a line and let them dry for a few days..excellent. I kept on installing the old
Yelo batteries , lights and some half dead solar panels. So far it seems to work and for the first time they had regular lights at their table and in the kitchen. I made them some lights with a coconut shell as a lampshade.
Germoune made a huge lunch for us with BBQ grouper and a meal made with coconut sponges, bread ,sticky sweet rice and poison cru.
Its this sweet spongy ball that grows inside a coconut before it starts to sprout. They also make bread with it . We just put them in the fridge and eat them as a desert.
Its another day of solar work and the boys want to get me another 50 groupers for my own version of Bacalao. life is good , away from the web and the virus

back in Nake

15 September 2020 | Nake in Hao Tuamotu
a pleasant sail thru the maze of uncharted coral reefs brought us back. We could not follow a straight course and drifted into an area without a previous track from another yacht, but visibility was fine and you could see the turquoise shine of the bomies easily. No fish on
the line .I hope i am more successful here. If not , there is always Gill , Germoune or Lise to help me out.

Covid arrived in Hao

08 September 2020 | Hao Tuamotu
Rolf Fischer | 27 C for a change
Just got news that we have 2 covid cases in Hao. 1 teacher at the college and 1 priest. Both had lots of contacts obviously, 25 people confined at home. The two are ok.
My feed are better every day and bending up and down to install the wires in the engine room is possible again after 2 months of usless pain all due to a doctor prescribing me the wrong drugs.
I should have donne what the people around me gave me as good advice. Since they almost all have it here, they share their knowledge :
Drink youre own piss!! It will be gone in 2 days
Drink Noni juice. A local plant that makes you sick. I drank it but felt so bad, gout became a minor problem.
Drink lime juice.
Drink canabis oil or smoke the weed!!
Do yoga and meditation.
Its funny, as i limped thru this village, even little kids said : ah you have "la goute".
I ignored all of the good advice and stuck with Clarissa the new sailing doctor in Hao. With the help of a specialist in Tahiti, she got me walking again. Maruru, thank you so much.

New solar

07 September 2020 | Oteba Hao, Tuamotu
Rolf Fischer | Always29C
It was about time to add a new power source. The old pannels still work 60% and are not easily replaced. They have a messurement that id no longer standart. So i would have to drill new holes and make new brackets. Loads of work. I decidet to keep them and add new ones on the dingy davids, a sunny place away from the rigging wires and mast.
Got new batteries as well. In a few days i ll know if we can cook electric now.
Other good news is that my previous doctor gave me gout pills to get rid of a few minor gout attacks i had. But he gave me the wrong ones and in a mega dosage that actually causes permanent gout. Thats what i had now for 2 months, pain that i couldnt walk at all.
Happy that I have a good doctor here that found an excellent Rheumatologist in Tahiti to follow me. Gout is gone... Hurra.. What a efffing pain it was

Back in Otepa for solar batteries and my bones

03 September 2020 | Oteba Hao, Tuamotu
Rolf Fischer | 27 C for a change
After Nake this is a busy downtown rush.
See what tomorrow s shoppung brings. Rumors tbey have abocados..
Vessel Name: YELO
Vessel Make/Model: CATANA 431
Hailing Port: LANGKAWI
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Created 10 January 2019