Island of Horses (and goats!), Ua Huka, pronounced wah hookah, is more like the Island of Hospitality. After an upwind sail from Nuku Hiva, we spent a quiet evening in Bay Haavei, surrounded by wild horses and goats grazing on the steep green slopes that ran parallel to our hulls. The sound of the goats made me think there were children playing nearby, but no, we were all by ourselves. Protecting us from wind and waves was Bird Island, only inhabited with little local birds called kaveka. Their small eggs are a local delicacy and are harvested by the natives. After a school morning, a dinghy ride and quick friendly encounter w/another French family of sailors, we made our way around to another anchorage called Hane. Later that evening, s/v Lzone, our new French friends, anchored next to us. It's hard to describe how lucky we feel to have these unique bays all to ourselves, or with just one or two other boats. Today, being early in the season and a in a less-visited island, we got up close and personal to the locals' way of daily life. Vanessa from Lzone, on her way to shore with her 8-month old son, and her 2 year old daughter, stopped by Zen to invite us to join her. Hey, a friendly mom fluent in English and French with friends ashore, oh yes, we'll join you! Upon coming ashore, we were immediately welcomed by Vanessa's friends who piled us into their pickup truck and drove us to their home. Maryjo's father (shown in the photo), the best sculptor in Ua Huka, was working in his studio when we pulled in. He showed us his current project and shortly thereafter, we walked to the artisan co-op to see the sculptures from all the villagers. The items were exquisite and we happily purchased a few favorites. Terry, Maryjo's husband, brought the keys to the maritime museum and gave us an improptu history of boatbuilding on Ua Huka. We saw hand woven cages the islanders used to store their live fish, aka historical refrigerator. There were handmade hooks made from bone, braids and feathers and original outriggers over 300 years old. Terry and Maryjo asked Vanessa if we'd enjoy seeing another village about 20 minutes away by car. Sure! Vaipee housed another amazing museum, which Terry procured the keys for and opened for us. Many wooden carved oars, tikis and weapons were replicated by Maryjo's father and proudly displayed. We learned about the island's coconut trade, why they only kill dark furred goats and tasted topu-topu, a delicious fruit. After a snack stop, we headed back to Hane, but not before visiting one more peaceful village named Hokatu. Once there, we gave warm double kisses to Terry, Maryjo, Vanessa and her children as they departed, leaving us in the care of the town's ambassador, Delphin. Delphin spoke some English and we practiced our French as she opened up the artisan co-op for us. Again, we purchased some one of a kind traditional sculptures and Delphin brought us to her home. She introduced us to her family and sent us on our hike back to Zen with arm-loads of fruit as a gift. As we walked the 3 km back to Zen, on the perfectly paved road overlooking the bay, we smiled and appreciated the balanced lives these 580 inhabitants enjoy. We are very grateful to the many people who took us in today and encircled us with genuine hospitality, making us feel special and very welcomed.