Zephyr's Travels

Vessel Name: Zephyr
Vessel Make/Model: Ovni 395
Hailing Port: Falmouth
Crew: Colin & Rebecca Campbell
28 May 2024
12 May 2024 | Anse Amyot, Toau, Tuamotus
11 April 2024 | Marquesas Islands
04 April 2024 | On passage Gambier Islands to Marchesas Islands
29 March 2024 | Rikitea, Mangareva, Gambier Islands
21 March 2024 | Lat 25 00S Long 130 00W
18 March 2024 | Lat 25 13S Long 127 25W
13 March 2024 | Lat 25 54S Long 117 59W
09 March 2024
29 February 2024 | Easter Island (Rapa Nui)
25 February 2024 | Lat 26 18S Long 108 04W
23 February 2024 | Lat 22 45S Long 105 06W
21 February 2024 | Lat 09 23S Long 91 42W
15 February 2024 | Half Way to Easter Island
11 February 2024 | Equator
07 February 2024 | Panama Canal
29 January 2024 | Panama
Recent Blog Posts
28 May 2024

Bikes onboard

Who would have thought back in the winter of 2023 looking at a World map to identify the islands of Polynesia the size of pin heads and barely visible even with a magnifying glass that I would be sat here writing a blog from one of those islands!

12 May 2024 | Anse Amyot, Toau, Tuamotus

A Pocketful of Fish

Our passage south from Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas was delayed a few days while we waited for more settled trade winds but the wait paid off with a lovely 4 day beam reach in a steady 15 knot breeze.

26 April 2024

Nuka Hiva, Marquesas Islands

We are currently anchored in Taiohae Bay waiting for a weather window for our next 500 mile passage to the Tuamotu Islands.

11 April 2024 | Marquesas Islands

Fatu Hiva, Hanaveve Bay (Bay of Penises)

As soon as the wind engaged we flew into sight of Fatu Hiva with an incredible encounter of what we think was a juvenile hump back whale , Just off our bow his blow sending up a fountain of spray in

04 April 2024 | On passage Gambier Islands to Marchesas Islands

Not Really a Killer Whale!

We had a much needed day of fun with an ever inquisitive pod of False Killer Whales. I find the name given to these incredibly social mammals quite funny because they are nothing like Killer Whales. With

29 March 2024 | Rikitea, Mangareva, Gambier Islands

Je parle peu le francais (I speak little French)

The sight of our first Polynesian atoll was both daunting and beautiful. The Gambier islands opens up through a huge pass in the reef with spectacular mountains either side heavily lined with lush green

Bikes onboard

28 May 2024
Bec & Col
Who would have thought back in the winter of 2023 looking at a World map to identify the islands of Polynesia the size of pin heads and barely visible even with a magnifying glass that I would be sat here writing a blog from one of those islands!
Our 4500 mile progress through Polynesia started with our arrival in Rapa Nui (Easter Island) with its mysterious and deep rooted culture, it's traditions and ancient majestic statues and is now close to completion as we prepare to leave the Society Islands with one final stop in the remote island nation of Niue 1000 miles further west.
These splendid islands with coral reefs keeping the huge Pacific swell at bay create a dreamy world of enclosed lagoons with knife edge cliffs softened by the gentle layering of the Acacia trees like a lace table cloth. While not always appreciated at 3am with a full moon, the sound of the cockerels crowing on every island has to be heard to be believed. The sheer number of wild and semi domestic fowl roaming all over the place takes a bit of getting used to especially in incongruous setting such as beaches and urban areas. Similarly, scanning the sheer cliffs of the Marquesas Islands for herds of nimble goats became a bit of a time waster while sitting in the cockpit.


We never got tired of the dramatic volcanic peaks


Acacia trees

Although we have one more stop to make on Nuie, I feel our current anchorage off Huahine is very much the end of our three months here. Although it is as beautiful as all the others it has a very different feel about it. Locals are more guarded and perhaps slightly less welcoming however a large amount of effort has been spent on the infrastructure here. User friendly dinghy docks, tarmacked roads solar street lighting and faster 4G internet than we are used to in Cornwall to name just a few.


The smooth roads put ours at home to shame


This hill certainly rivalled Porlock Hill

The billiard table smooth roads allowed to comfortably cycle both islands of Huahine on our road-bikes taking in all the sights of daily life here. To get the bikes off Zephyr easily we needed to find a suitable location. We came across a perfect sheltered bay of Ha'Apu that ticked all the boxes. However, I did slightly wonder why no one else was anchored there! All the other boats seemed to sail past. We were delighted to have the entire place to ourselves although slightly surprised to hear a pig being slaughtered for a weekend of festivities. Not be to be put off we went ashore with our bikes for a couple of days of cycling probably my most favourite rides ever. After the final ride we returned late in the day and while getting the bikes loaded back on the dinghy, a local villager came over. He was friendly enough but even with the language barrier we felt from his body language that we'd probably out-stayed our welcome. This was a very quiet village and they probably didn't appreciate us anchored close to the village so we decided to move early the following morning to the anchorage off Fare where there was a concentration of passing cruising boats.


Happy pigs by the side of the road

I understand and respect this village probably not appreciating outsiders arriving in their bay which is after all their home. The many years of European influence of this unique place has in some respects taken so much of their traditional culture. I hope the remaining indigenous people can continue being themselves and somehow protect what is left.
We've had an interesting challenge finding a secure anchorage at our final departure point from French Polynesia. The anchorage off the village of Fare has a deep water area taken up by deeper draft boats so we had to focus on a shallow area on the reef called the Flats which has a few spots of deep sand over coral but mostly is littered with tall coral heads (known as bommies) just waiting to snag an anchor or anchor chain. After a couple of failed attempts in areas of little sand cover we resorted to me snorkelling ahead checking for bommies and watching to make sure the anchor dug in. With only 2 metres of crystal clear water this was a bit of a doddle although it did take most of the morning to find a good spot. Since then with the centreboard and rudder lifted we've held tight in some pretty ferocious gusts tumbling down the hills behind us so all's well although the wrecked yacht close by reminds us to be vigilant!

Someone's day ended badly on the reef at Fare

Colin is treating me to staying a couple more days to celebrate my birthday and a visit to the local waterside bar for happy hour. With a ten day passage to Nuie the following day there's no worry of overdoing it!


Looking across the lagoon towards the outer reef on Huahine

A Pocketful of Fish

12 May 2024 | Anse Amyot, Toau, Tuamotus
Bec & Col
Our passage south from Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas was delayed a few days while we waited for more settled trade winds but the wait paid off with a lovely 4 day beam reach in a steady 15 knot breeze.

We'd picked an atoll in the Tuamotus called Kauehi but then found out on passage that the village was in mourning for someone and pretty much shutdown. A quick bit of research identified Anse Amyot on the west side of Toau atoll as an interesting sheltered bay surrounded by a wall of coral on 3 sides.



The Atoll of Toau bang in the middle of the charted 'Area to Be Avoided'

Once securely moored in the flat calm waters we realised this is the first time since the marina in Panama that Zephyr has been completely still in the water with no rolling, bliss!


Even with the wind blowing at 25 knots, the anchorage was flat clam behind the shelter of the reef

Gaston and Valentine live at the head of the bay with a homestead full of life.


The homestead taken from Zephyr. Their boat moored outside is their only link with the outside world

As we walked up a rickety pontoon we were greeted by Tic Toc and Luna the dogs along with numerous puppies, cats and chickens. Valentine's kitchen, open on three sides has the best view of the lagoon. Valantine proudly invited us in with a warm welcome, offering to show us her pigs and bee hives.


The bees here tend to swarm outside the hives to keep cool rather than our bees at home huddling inside to keep warm!

Firstly, we see Gaston has a boat full of provisions to unload so we helped by lifting and carrying about a month's supplies. Currently, provisions & fuel are in short supply with only one of the two regular supply ships out of action due to a breakdown with no fresh fruit or vegetables available and fuel rationed. Valentine & Gaston rely on fuel to run their boat for fishing and getting to the nearest atoll 25 miles away for provisions.
Valantine shared many stories about living here but the story of how she got here was the best. Her father took her at 8 months old and her sister along with a pig on a small motorboat with a 1hp engine. After 2 days at sea, her father realised they were lost, as pigs have a great sense of smell the father put the pig in the sea and it swam towards land bringing them here to Toau. It was Valentine's birthday the day she told us this story celebrating 62 years on the motu (island).



A few birthday presents

Gaston asked if we would help by coming fishing with him the following morning and so we arrived ashore at dawn not quite knowing what to expect. We all piled into the boat and anchored close by in shallow water over the reef. Using a 50-metre length of net with Colin and one other holding it at each end just offshore in amongst the coral. Gaston told me to shoo the fish towards the net by splashing and lobbing chunks of coral. He forgot to mention the Black Tip sharks that swim around the inlet chasing the same fish! After 20 minutes Gaston walked the full length of net grabbing fish and placing into a sack. At least 2 stone of mainly brightly coloured Parrot Fish were caught.


Any predatory reef fish have a build-up of toxin and are dangerous to eat here - we survived eating a couple of these fish which we were told were safe

In no time at all we are back at Valentine's kitchen where the tide meets her veranda. We gutted washed and filleted the fish ready for eating with in the hour. Gaston worked at speed and much more efficiently than either of us while Valentine gave a short prayer to thank God for providing the food, with the cats and dogs grabbing anything that fell their way. The final task was to cook the bulk of the leftovers for feeding to the pigs. Colin and I sat in wonder of it all.
It was a privilege to step in to this world, so many similarities to our life at Drym and yet worlds apart. Now on our next island adventure in the Tuamotus before heading further west towards Tahiti and the other Society Islands.



We spent a lot of time snorkelling here with the teeming fish although sadly most of the coral is bleached and dying from increasing sea temperatures.


Some bright coloured coral was still evident


Beached coral debris

Nuka Hiva, Marquesas Islands

26 April 2024
Bec & Col
We are currently anchored in Taiohae Bay waiting for a weather window for our next 500 mile passage to the Tuamotu Islands.


Daniels Bay anchorage

It's a chance to relax and make the most of the internet available here which is surprisingly fast!


Telephone boxes seem to be still common here

Colin is able to read some reports for work and we can post some long-awaited photos on the blog. Probably one of the most important jobs is looking ahead at our destinations and sourcing as much information as possible available online. With some testing anchorages in the Tuamotus and marinas in Australia to book it all takes a huge amount of planning. One of the planning tasks is to make sure we don't fall foul of any immigration and customs requirements. Most countries require an online pre-arrival application to be made with all sorts of complications if you arrive without having completed all correct forms online. We have long discussions about what we want to see and what we don't mind missing. We are always on the look out for unusual and interesting places. Right now, we are watching the weather closely for our passage to the Tuamotus and for conditions when we arrive. Wind and waves being the main factor around the atolls affecting the strong tidal flows in and out of the passes between open sea and the sheltered lagoons. I recommend looking online or Google Earth at this area, it is vast with none of the atolls much more than a few metres above sea level!
As always, we make the most of our time ashore hiking up into the mountains or along the backbone of the island looking at the coast, spotting birds, plants and comparing homesteads with our Cornish ways.


In the shade but still swelteringly hot

One thing is very evident here are the tidy gardens, and soft fruit orchards. Everything is orderly and has a purpose.


Note wooden saddles and ancient bits


Strimming seems to be an obsession here but maybe it keeps the biting insects at bay?

Constant strimming keeps the rich lush vegetation at bay with tethered horses grazing in most gardens ready to be ridden or worked.


Tidy garden with fruit in abundance

Wild chickens have complete free rein with handsome cockerels strutting in amongst the trees displaying their colourful plumage wooing the ladies to join them in their domain with rarely any fighting as there is room for everyone.
There is plenty of evidence from times past when many more Marquesans lived here. Tumbled stone buildings and overgrown gardens even moss-covered stone Tikis lay abandoned.


Remains of a long abandoned village


A Tiki on watch

Much of their history and knowledge of their traditions were lost when the island populations were decimated in the 18th & 19th centuries due to visiting ships introducing western diseases.
Today with the involvement of France administering these islands means there has been a western influence on language religion and customs (the locals even play the French game of boules). One way you can still see the identity of the Polynesian people is through their tattoo art, as nearly everyone has a tattoo. The people here have used the tattoo as a form of communication for over a millenium as there was nothing written. Tattooing traditionally was done using sharks teeth and a small hammer to tap intricate designs on parts of the body. It took months to recover from the process but demonstrating bravery.
Areas of the body signify the meanings. To have a tattoo on your back means "past", on your front is "future". Your upper body is strength and feet, and lower legs is about "moving forward". these just a few examples. However, this was banned by the Christian missionaries and so the ancient tradition was nearly lost. Today with modern equipment and carful interpretation talented artists are back performing tattoos among locals and travellers demonstrating intricate designs all with meanings.
This Manta Ray design is something I chose after discussing with the artist the significance and placement. It's on my back and signifies the past for me, travelling at sea. The small lines representing the people I have met along the way. Daniel, the tattooist was amazing taking time to discuss what I was about and explaining the process carefully before I decided to go ahead!


Yes it's real!


Lunch with a great gang of American & Canadian cruisers


Our host's home where we had a lovely lunch



Everything has it's place


Banyan trees


Full of tuna lunch leftovers

Fatu Hiva, Hanaveve Bay (Bay of Penises)

11 April 2024 | Marquesas Islands
Bec & Col
As soon as the wind engaged we flew into sight of Fatu Hiva with an incredible encounter of what we think was a juvenile hump back whale , Just off our bow his blow sending up a fountain of spray in
preparation to dive he took his last breath and down he went with his huge tail waving good bye and he was gone.
In no time at all we were busy preparing the anchor and dropping the sail for our arrival. With friendly welcomes from other yachts and congratulations on making it to this iconic anchorage our last job was
to find a space. Tricky maneuvering around a very crowded area with either very deep water needing 100 metres of chain or a rocky shallow inshore area with poor holding and gusts of wind blowing down
the mountain. Our choice was limited. After a number of attempts we nudged into a safe haven. Totally exhausted we just sat and took it all in with our jaws dropped watching wild goats climbing up and
over steep cliff faces to get the next nibble of grass and then bleating like children because they've been separated, or the grass is greener situation.
We had arrived in Hanaveve Bay or Bay of Penises as it was known in sailing ship days now re-named the Bay of Virgins by the early missionaries. The trouble is, the towering volcanic columns resembling the
said name and its difficult to think of anything else. The goats seem to climb these large columns just for fun.
The film 'The World that Time Forgot' comes to mind. Huge soaring peaks covered in lush green foliage way up high. You could almost imagine dinosaurs cruising around every corner munching on the rich
green vegetation. The village that sits at the bottom of the valley is a small community of about 300 people living in beautifully manicured plots of land with simple houses having kitchen and dining areas
outside. Fruit trees loaded down with an endless supply of pamplemouse, mangos and bananas add shade to tethered goats' dogs and pigs and plentiful food for the family and to sell to passing yachts.


Collecting bananas from a local garden with Pamplemouse overhead

One of the locals introduced himself as Poi and holds down several jobs including fisherman, tour guide, security guard and priest. He was a great contact and able to sell us fruit and fix us up with most of
our basic needs. We liked the idea of going to church as it seemed to be a very big part of the community and an opportunity for us to reflect on friends and family at home. Poi suggested getting to the quay
at 07:30 to collect some fruit and then make our way up to the church. It was a typical whitewashed building with a humble bell ringing out and everyone in their Sunday best of white dresses and flowers in
the lady's hair. It wasn't long before the singing started, and the magic began. We were both overwhelmed with the singing with all sorts of musical accompaniment and the passion shared openly with tears
flowing freely.

The church choir in full song

It was quite a moment and touched both Colin and me. The day before we came across four young guys who had taken 38 days to sail from Panama to Fatu Hiva, all looking like they could do
with a large meal. They told us they had little food left and needed to see if they could get some provisions. We had some fruit we shared and other boats helped too. What I found incredible was even
though they were in quite a sorry state they found time to come to church the following morning. The six of us all shook hands and no words were needed just knowing we were all strangers that had one
thing in common having sailed from far away to here in French Polynesia and were stood in a small church listening to the most incredible singing on a remote island.
Returning to Zephyr after one of our many expeditions we were greeted by our fellow Cornishmen on Distraction who had just dropped anchor, a welcomed sight of our friends who had also covered many
miles from Galapagos to Fatu Hiva. Bottles of bubbly were consumed along with a lot of chat (mostly Mike). Mike managed to orchestrate a swim that included cleaning the bottom of his boat and in no time
at all had all six of us scrubbing and de-barnacling Distraction however it soon exhausted everyone and team Distraction slept for the rest of the day. Phew!
The waterfalls are an attraction that we read about. With various instructions on where to find them we packed sandwiches along with suitable walking shoes and met up with Distraction and friends Philip,
Sarah and crew Tom from another boat Hermoine. It should have been a straightforward mission if any of us bothered to read the directions properly. A lot of guessing and let's follow the river, along with
sending scouts Will and Tom ahead to explore possible tracks that might lead us to our destination. What should have only taken 2 hours was turning into a survival situation foraging for food and sheltering
under giant leaves from torrential downpours (and being eaten alive by mosquitoes) and still no waterfall.


Sheltering while considering our route options

After exploring every avenue most of the party thought it was best to head back. Tom, Will and I
reckoned it was worth continuing having come this far. We retraced our tracks and got back to the road and went around the corner low and behold a large wooden sign and arrow saying 'waterfall'! At last,
after a lot of clambering we arrived at a very high cliff edge with a slight trickle of water making its way down to a pond of broken rotting trees and stagnant water covered in scum. It's the taking part that's
important and my memory will be getting to know two very special people Will and Tom.


The not so impressive waterfall

Finding somewhere to obtain cash is always an issue in these remote places and the one thing we all needed was cash to buy food. We decided to all team up with Distraction and Hermione and to combine a
tour of the island with a visit to a post office to draw out some money. We didn't realise the one road that takes you over to the next village climbs up a series of hairpin bends that need carful negotiating.
Relying on Poi's driving skills we held our breath and closed our eyes a number times as he rolled backwards to do a three point turn around the bends leaving us girls Emma, Sarah and me along with Philip
who refused to look out from under his hat, suspended on the edge of the road looking down far below at a tiny dot of where we had come from. It was worth it though for the bird's eye view. A quick lunch
time stop to see how Tapas is made. This is a form of parchment made from the bark of a mulberry tree. The process of beating the bark and stretching out it then covering in tapioca to dry eventually results
in a scroll that can be painted. Their eye for design creates beautiful and memorable images of sea life and Polynesian culture. This particular island is known for the talent and skill of this tradition along with
the intricate carvings they do to make Tiki figures from ebony and rosewood.
Thanks to Fatu Hiva and its people and meeting up with our Cornish cousins on Distraction along with seeing new sailing friends to share stories with we feel fully recovered and ready to move on to our next
French Polynesian Island of Nuku Hiva about 140 miles north.


Zephyr in Hanaveve Bay, Fatu Hiva


Mid picture is a hole in the cliff just below the ridge line where the local men climb through to prove themselves


Looking down on Hanaveve Bay from the switchback road to the only other village on the island

Not Really a Killer Whale!

04 April 2024 | On passage Gambier Islands to Marchesas Islands
Bec & Col
We had a much needed day of fun with an ever inquisitive pod of False Killer Whales. I find the name given to these incredibly social mammals quite funny because they are nothing like Killer Whales. With
its very unflattering head with little or no definition in shape (if it was a horse, it would have a roman nose) It's incredibly fast and agile in the water. This particular small whale was really showing off darting
under Zephyr producing a high-pitched squeak and riding the bow wave rolling on its side to take a good look at us as we hung over the rail looking back at him. Thinking he had had enough of us he
vanished, after a minute or two he was back with his entire family. It was as if they had come to the zoo to see us! Mother baby aunts and uncles all pausing to take in the sight of the metal beast Zephyr with
two nutters on board looking longingly at the speed and the freedom they all had. Meanwhile we are struggling to make any headway in zero wind and massive swell so just lolling on the ocean for their
entertainment.
I managed to get some fun photos of Mr 'I'm not really a killer whale' and hope to post if we ever make landfall again.


...and here it is

I can't say I'm a fan of this particular area of the Pacific Ocean as I have yet to have a dream sail as we did when we left Panama. We think the inconsistent unsettled period we are experiencing could be to do
with it being an El Nino year, who knows, all I know is its making for tough sailing with the daily weather forecasts either giving us false hope of champagne sailing or predicting awful weather that never
materialises.
We had a rude awakening this morning with a very strong smell of diesel. Further investigation and we found half the entire content of our fuel tank in the bilges. My heart sank! The smell was overwhelming
and the sight of nearly 90 litters of diesel slopping around was not what we needed to see. It's one of those moments when you just know you need to get your head down and salvage what we could with no
questions asked. We need every drop of fuel to get us in if we continue in the light winds we're getting, It was a delicate operation to remove the fuel without spilling any in or around our living area so
everything had to be packed away and all the floorboards lifted, The jerry cans lined up and a super fine filter on the funnel to catch any particles as we transferred the fuel. This stuff gets everywhere the
smallest of drips turn into an oil field. It took about 2 hours to remove and filter before we could even begin to see where it was coming from. Colin found a split in the engine fuel supply hose at the pre-
filter outlet connection. The split at a low point allowed the fuel tank to siphon into the bilge with the engine stopped. Because we had the engine running over night we didn't notice until the smell hit us.
This was a timely reminder to do more regular bilge level checks when the engine is running and not rely on the bilge alarms! All in all, we started sorting this at 7am and finished at 2pm. But we did manage
to salvage the fuel and return our living area to how it should be Phew!!
On a positive note, we've been feasting on a magnificent tuna for the last couple of days, our first catch since the last one shortly after leaving Panama.
Now we just need the same fighting spirit to get in to our next destination in the Marquesas Islands 160 miles to go with zero wind and none forecast for at least 5 days. This must be the slowest we have ever
gone on Zephyr.
Stop Press: The spinnaker is hoisted and the wind has returned!

Je parle peu le francais (I speak little French)

29 March 2024 | Rikitea, Mangareva, Gambier Islands
Bec & Col
The sight of our first Polynesian atoll was both daunting and beautiful. The Gambier islands opens up through a huge pass in the reef with spectacular mountains either side heavily lined with lush green
pines and Acacia trees with large low branches in a pattern of discs layer upon layer enticing you to come in to it's world of coral reefs and black pearls.
Once inside this enormous atoll we were relieved to see surprisingly well-maintained navigation marks leading us through the chaotic carpet of pearl farm floats marking the thousands of oyster beds either
side of us as far as the eye could see. Coming in at midday was a sound move giving us perfect light to spot any floats and endless ropes attached to them as it doesn't bear thinking about getting one
wrapped around the prop!
Snaking our way through the channel led us to the main town of Rikitea. We found a decent anchoring spot after couple of aborted attempts ending up too close to the reefs after been told by a kindly yacht
neighbour that the most recent weather forecast gave winds blowing from 30-40 knots straight into this spot by the end of the week.
Although we are in calm waters with no swell due to the protection of the reefs unfortunately, you're never far from a shallow reef edge. With around 10 yachts all vying for the best anchor spot and with us
been last in, it left us with little choice were to go, However, after a deep breath and not rushing we got our place lovely and close to the dinghy dock and a view of laden grapefruit trees.
That was the easy bit!!
We headed ashore and were greeted warmly with �"bonjour�" from all the locals and their dogs. The town is a single road parallel to the shoreline so simple directions took us to the Gendarmerie to clear
Zephyr in to French Polynesia which was a very relaxed process for once. Next on the list was provisions, cash and a local Sim card for the phone. The first setback was finding the only ATM machine in the
islands was out of cash and would not be topped up for a week. Then we found out all the little shops mostly only take cash and the last remaining place that might have cash was the post office and this was
SHUT. From that point we were a bit stuck: garbage disposal - need cash, diesel - need cash, laundry - need cash and to top it all, no Sim cards were available even if we did have cash.

Feeling a tad deflated, we returned back to Zephyr empty handed and with no means of communications to call Lucy or any friends and family (always a highlight after a long stint at sea).
Thank goodness the SSB radio snail-mail set up was booming in despite the mountain behind us so we were able to ping off a couple of short emails.
After a very good night's sleep things didn't seem quite so bad the following morning. Armed with our French phrase book and some US dollars to exchange we headed back in with a positive outlook and
tried again.

The supply ship was in and unloading fresh produce for the shops and fuel with everyone waiting their turn to collect their items as it was unloaded. Very similar to the Scillonian arriving in Scilly.


A slightly odd sight in such a remote place, aviation fuel being shipped across the lagoon to the airport

All in all, yesterday we were thinking Gambier was not the great place we were expecting, but after a good night's sleep we changed some US dollars for local in the post office, found a shop that took a credit
card and walking around the town with fresh fruit laden trees and shrubs everywhere for the taking.

Mindful of the SE gale forecast for later in the week, we decided to make a quick turn around and try to get ahead of the strong winds and get a good tail wind push towards the island of Hiva Oa in the
Marquesas group.
Prior to leaving we managed to get an amazing walk in along the ridge that divides the island and picked plenty of wild fruit filling the back pack on route.


The ridge line walk not for the feint hearted

After dropping off the rubbish recycling at the pubelle and successfully decanting propane from a local cylinder into our empty one on the stern of the boat, we did a quick provision shop (at eye watering
prices for even the basics) and collected our laundry (unwashed but glad to have it back all the same).


The technique used to fill gas bottles using gravity and a temperature difference between the two bottles

Finally, we loaded a very large hand of bananas bought off the back of a truck into the dinghy and to top
it all we bought 3 perfect black pearls to celebrate our Pearl wedding anniversary. Jobs done and its time to go and catch up with our lovely Cornish cousins on Distraction 800 miles away in Hiva Oa.
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