Bec & Col
Friday 15th November and with a favourable weather window, this was our opportunity to leave the Mascarene Islands (Rodrigues, Mauritius and La Reunion) along with two other boats for company.
We met Bill in Darwin on his boat Cara Mor, she caught my eye because she is registered in Fowey. Bill sails his 40ft Westerly Ocean Lord single handed and has been circumnavigating a similar length of time as us. It amazing our paths haven't crossed before but now they have we have enjoyed meeting up and being in regular communication.
Penny Oyster, the other boat embarking this passage is a particularly pretty classic 1980's 40ft boat belonging to David and Millie. We met David and Millie through Distraction with Mike and Emma. After a few sea-shanty shindigs they have become our adopted Cornish cousins. This young couple have a wonderful relationship with their boat appreciating what a grand lady she is. They too are circumnavigating and are on a similar time scale to us.
Two other boats, Mister X and Marasol had left a few days ahead of us but had got stuck in light winds so in total there were 5 boats pretty much on the same route and schedule.
Day 1
Zephyr, Cara Mor and Penny Oyster all checked out at similar times leaving Port Louis late afternoon. In no time at all we all seemed to settle into a comfortable first night with about 5 to 10 miles between us. Surprisingly you can lose sight of each other quickly, but it's always a comforting sight to see the sails and navigation lights on the horizon. For a closer inspection on how we are all proceeding our AIS tracker has the boats on the navigation screen up to a range of about 15 miles. Here we can monitor speeds and positions when out of visual contact speeds along with the VHF radio to discuss progress and any issues.
The VHF can also act as a form of entertainment making use of one of the quiet working channels. I'm currently putting together a boat quiz. If they are lucky, I can do Name that Tune with the ukulele!!
DAY 2
All the nearby boats have disappeared far over the horizon settling down to their plotted course. (Nothing to do with my Ukulele playing!) With radio communication to hand, there's an early morning discussion on our whereabouts and who has the most wind and clocked the most miles overnight. Penny Oyster has crept away from us and is almost doing summersaults over the waves with her spinnaker flying. Millie who's not only a very experienced sailor for her young years is a dab hand at cooking. We have a chat about what the bake of the day is, along with important stuff like weather and upcoming acceleration zones! Millie reminds me so much of Lucy and how much I love seeing young people traveling. We have come across one or two boats where a group of youngsters have clubbed together and sailed across the Atlantic just for the adventure then selling the boat on to pay for flights home. Some go on to work as crew on larger boats benefiting from travelling further on again.
As we make our way to the southern tip of Madagascar, we are beginning to appreciate the size of the island. 850miles from North to South and 350 East to West. Unfortunately, we won't be stopping unless we have to drop the anchor to shelter from bad weather. It is impossible for us to go ashore without immigration and customs clearance from the authorities to land on their shores. However, an interesting place to visit sometime in the future!
DAY's 3 & 4 Cyclone Alley
Each morning the "boat galley communications" start up and Zephyr becoming HQ! The in-box is on our satellite phone is full of texts and its only 8am. Penny Oyster has picked up a weather system that could potentially be a hazard towards the latter part of the passage. Gale force southerly winds blowing up the east side of South Africa meeting the fast-flowing Agulhas current coming the other way are lining up in our path. When the wind waves meet the current, high standing waves form which over the years have claimed ships let alone small yachts. We have always known the chance of encountering this scenario is quite high with the southerly fronts occurring every 5-6 days at this time of year. In fact, Colin has been monitoring the weather patterns for the past two months to get a handle on it all and having alternative plans to hand. This particular cold front however appeared more intense than most and initially looked like it would affect the whole of the Mozambique Channel across to Madagascar where there is only one viable sheltered anchorage.
First things first, and we needed to gather as much information as possible. With access to a number of weather routers and surrounding boat buddies meant we could all share any useful updates and information throughout the day. The cold front was about 5 days away from us and the main topic of conversation was whether to head to St Augustine Bay anchorage 700 miles away on the west side of Madagascar or to stay offshore and tough it out. Getting to the anchorage was a long diversion with the added complication of not having official clearance to be there. Technically we would be there illegally although it has to be said, it is used for emergency shelter on a fairly regular basis.
As the day rolled into night and after much discussion it seemed sensible to change course and head to Madagascar. According to recent comments from other sailors it seemed the Bay we were heading to was quiet well away from any officialdom and the remote village would leave you in peace for a small anchorage fee.
The following morning and Boat Galley communications was back in business. News hot of the press, was fresh information not involving what lay ahead but what was coming up behind, a named tropical cyclone "Becky" (I couldn't make it up if I tried!) This particular cyclone had been brewing for some time and again one we have watched carefully. While it was forecast to pass within 200 miles of our current position, as long as we kept moving west, we would be far enough away and all would be well.
Slowly as the day wore on with Cyclone Becky dealt with, latest weather data was starting to show a less gloomy picture of what laid ahead with the cold front intensity being downgraded somewhat. After another chat with all our boat buddies we decided to keep heading to Richards Bay and not go to Madagascar as first discussed. Even with a moderated cold front, the mix of strong southerly winds against the Agulhas current was still something to not get tangled up in. If we stayed north we had options to heave-to well off the coast, slow down to time arrival or make a run for it and get in before it all kicks off. So this is the current plan as I write this blog, staying north on a steady heading with some good winds following. I don't think we can beat the arrival of the front but I know we can heave-to safely and Zephyr will look after us. Meanwhile a game of storm scrabble is on the cards and a bit of cakey tea and some ship spotting for Colin!
A Korean fishing boat passing a bit close for comfort
DAY 5 Fire and Brimstone
Zephyr HQ, Boat Galley communications kicked off again today. Basically, we have a couple options but to continue the track we are currently on would mean we would need to slow down and prepare for a bumpy ride along with some thunder & lightning with fire and brimstone thrown in for good measure. Given the latest synopsis we decided to cut and run after all to St Augustine Bay, Madagascar, as per the original plan right at the beginning when all this storm talk started a few days ago. This would take a couple of days sailing but would be our safest bet. It's disappointing to say the least but I think in the circumstances it is the wisest choice, and I think as our family and friends read this will be relieved! One thing we have on our side is time, we have no deadlines to meet so there is no point putting ourselves or Zephyr at risk. We can wait out this particularly nasty cold front in a safe place all be it illegally having not got permission to enter Madagascan waters. With a few of the other boats joining us at anchor we will be in good company as we all get marched off to jail together!!!
DAY 6
Zephyr HQ was much quieter today. Our fleet of friends have made their choices and are heading to their safe places. Penny Oyster is the only boat to try and make Richards Bay ahead of the scheduled storm. They have at least 24hr to get in and be safe before the southerly front crosses their path. However, they will still need to fight their way through strong preceding northerly winds rattling down the Mozambique coast, a bumpy time for them. We will be in regular contact with Dave and Millie and watching their progress, Personally I will be relieved when I know they are in and back to singing their sea shanties once again.
Meanwhile we update Lucy with our movements, who commented it would be a good idea to get the fishing line out and try stocking up on our provisions as we could be at anchor in a remote area for some time. No sooner said than done and we had landed a 4-foot Dorado! In a slick operation much improved from our last Dorado encounter when we were crossing the Atlantic. On that occasion Ken, Ali, myself and Colin were all running around slowing Zephyr, finding buckets, heaving on rods, shouting and then letting it get away! A great memory but amazing to think it was nearly a year ago!
A bit messy but it all got eaten
Today I have some large Dorado fillets cleaned, bagged and chilling in the fridge and this should give us and any friends that end up at anchor with us some tasty suppers, along with a fishy tale to tell.
Days 7,8,9,10,
St Augustine Bay, Madagascar
St Augustine is the only sheltered bay on the south-west coast of Madagascar and home to several subsistence fishing communities. Large sedimentary rock cliffs and sand dunes surround the whole area, with long white sandy beaches and thatched houses dotted like a string of beads in a single row running along the top of the sand with an unforgiving desert landscape inland.
Sandstone cliffs from the anchorage
Thank goodness St Augustine Bay is a relatively safe anchorage in sand and soft mud, with a coral reef further inshore. Although tempting to be in closer it for better shelter, the presence of coral heads wasn't worth the risk. While there, a nearby yacht got his anchor chain wrapped on coral and ended up pulling his bow roller and stem fitting clean off the bow and losing his mast forestay and genoa furler at the same time. Thankfully with help from the locals which involved various canoes with wives and children (mostly spectating) the anchor and chain was retrieved and the yacht departed to the nearest port for emergency repairs fortunately with the mast still standing.
Once anchored we soon had a fleet of pirogues (wooden outrigger fishing and cargo carrying canoes) heading at speed past us and beyond. Waves and woops coming from several men either perched far out on the outrigger or acting as ballast in the hull. The skipper on the helm with a few ropes running back to his hands and skilfully swapping a steering paddle from side to side to steer. Running down wind, these boats go incredibly fast.
A cargo carrying pirogue passing by
The sails seem to be made up of feed sacks, sheets and in some cases national flags (the Canadian Maple leaf featured in one sail) sewn together creating a patchwork of cloth that billowed far out from the boat catching the wind and driving them off into the distance.
Resourceful use of a Canadian flag
Each morning with a cup of coffee in one hand binoculars in the other Colin and I tried to piece together what was going on in the village.
Another take on sailmaking
The stretch of beach directly in front of us seems to be a trading hub of sorts. Early each morning large numbers of boats come from all around, ghost their way into the shore under sail loaded down with sacks of produce. By 8am and the shoreline is looking like the Scilly Gig championships, with up to 100 boats drawn up. People walking running and unloading heavy sacks along with ox carts on standby waiting to be loaded. This hive of industry continues throughout the morning. What looks like an outdoor school with children are ready to help. A rusted-out cattle truck is also on standby, but I fear it has seen better days and won't be partaking this time. We later found out that charcoal transportation was one of the activities we were witnessing.
Hustle and bustle on the beach
By midday the beach is clear and the fleet of boats are heading back out into the bay again all under sail, there doesn't seem to be many engines used unless carrying passengers on the bigger boats to the nearest big port further up the coast. I'm clicking away on the camera trying to catch this once in a lifetime moment knowing we won't see anything like this again and its only by chance due to bad weather and seeking shelter we are here at all.
Meanwhile communications between the three boats start up with a suggestion of supper on board Zephyr.
Potluck meals are a great way of everyone bringing something to the table, it was no surprise that I would be doing freshly caught Derado together with some fruit and vegetables brought out buy the local lads and delivered with beaming smiles. I had a pair of fins that were too big for me and decided to let the lads take them for their reef fishing. This was much appreciated but I think they were more impresses by the net bag they were stowed in.

Young entreprenurial boat boys always willing to run an errand for a few dollars
A strong onshore wind starts building through day 9 and by mid-afternoon the sky is a menacing dark blanket with lightning intermittently lighting up the mountain peaks. We start to batten down Zephyr and pay out the full 80 metres of chain in preparation for a bumpy ride at anchor. Large swell waves lift us up and then continue to the shore full of vigour only to crash into large heap on the shoreline. Not a night you would want to be out in. In the distance a Pirogue approaches amid shrieks of laughter and a huge smile on the face of a lad no more than ten years old, skilfully helming the boat with his dad standing on the furthest most point of the outrigger surfing down the breaking waves. As they zoomed past, they called out for us to watch with whoops and laughter. Torrential rain thunder, lightning and winds touching 25 knots were not going to stop their fun.
The cold front had lost its sting by the time it reached Madagascar
On day 10 with the worst of the front gone through, we finally have a window to cross the 700 mile wide Mozambique Channel and time is of the essence to get going before the next weather system appears.
Everything is battened down with only basic living items to hand along with a batch of bread and storm stew to last hopefully the five days we expect to be sailing. Five days and not a day longer to cover the 700 miles or we risk getting caught up in the next low-pressure system. If we can't maintain the speed and something nasty is looming, then we do have a final storm hideaway on the Mozambique coast 200 miles from our destination. Entering Mozambique would be a last resort so, Colin is working incredibly hard at keeping Zephyr going as fast as possible. For now, the sun is shining, and we are on a good heading towards the west coast of South Africa.
THE LAST LEG
It's been nearly 3 weeks since we were last ashore, so to see the miles ticking down as we head closer to Richards Bay is exciting. Finally, with nothing nasty showing on the forecast we have what looks like a clear final 3 day run in. With the notoriously fast changing weather patterns in this part of the world its no time to be complacent so its full speed for Zephyr. Using the engine is something we rarely do, Colin is renowned for going under sail in all conditions, so for us to motor sail was a hard pill to swallow but needs must!
With 3 days still to go we had another close encounter with a huge pod of my favourite whale, the False Killer. At least 20 came along side squeaking and playing in our bow wave, the matriarch who was nearly the length of Zephyr swam alongside while the remaining pod splashed, jumped and raced us with high pitched squeaks of delight. They don't have the beaked profile of common dolphins, in fact they have large rounded heads but never the less they are beautiful in their own way, and are always inquisitive and playful, I could watch them all day.
Bulbous bows on False Killer Whales
Finally on 4th of December on day 20 we tie up in the Tuzi Gazi small craft harbour of Richards Bay and get all our loose gear stowed below to avoid loosing anything to the inquisitive and mischievous troop of monkeys watching our movements before battening down for a solid 12 hours of sleep alongside.
