Tales of Enchantment

also known as "Michelle and Vern's Excellent Adventure"

29 May 2011
29 May 2011
15 March 2011 | Southern Bahamas
25 February 2011
19 January 2011 | Warderick Wells, Bahamas
09 January 2011 | Nassau Bahamas
18 December 2010 | Jacksonville, Fl
04 November 2010
28 September 2010 | Still in Baltimore
15 February 2010 | Baltimore
22 December 2009
22 December 2009 | Baltimore, Md
02 December 2009
02 December 2009
02 December 2009 | Baltimor, Mdd

03 July 2023
Vern Noren
We had been in Phuket,Thailand for 3 years after Covid began. We had been there several times before and now it feels more like home than any where else. But it was time to continue our cruising. Our plan was to join a group of boats sailing across Borneo, Indonesia and S to Australia. We decided to do a few things we had never got around to doing before we left. We had even considered retiring in Thailand but that would come later. This post is a random collection of photos from our last several weeks in Thailand.

Junkyard Theater.....Dedicated to Khun Poom

30 November 2022
Vern Noren
Junkyard Theater has a Cabaret dinner show every Saturday. The theater is behind the Grind Café which is almost completely hidden by bamboo and trees. Ten minutes from the marina, Michelle and I had driven past hundreds of times and never noticed it. A Facebook ad led us to make a reservation to see the show. It was awesome. At the end a woman came by our table and asked how we liked the show. Turns out her and her husband, and son are the owners of the theater. We talked for an hour and we were invited to meet her husband at lunch during the week. John, Judy, and I are all of similar age and experiences and we hit it off right away and become friends.

They moved from Australia to Bangkok 30 years ago and then here to Phuket 20 yrs ago. John has a commercial arts degree and under the theater area is his factory. He has many international clients of the 5 star hotel variety, with current projects in London, Bangkok, and the Maldives.

He opened up this theater a year ago when he realized that that were many talented performers on the island that were out of work due to Covid. He decided to hire a few to entertain at the restaurant which has since grown into a full theater group with about 25 performers and 15-20 support personnel. Lighting, sound, backstage hands, seamstress, stage manager, choreographer, etc.
The Underwoods are very generous with their success. The factory and restaurant workers get free lunches, many live free in various rooms scattered around the huge old building. The Underwoods have given financial support to employees with overwhelming medical bills and other needs. They are very warm and welcoming to everyone and if you are their friend you have an open invitation to "come anytime, just show up".

I came to the shows and rehearsal for a few months just to watch the dancers, they are sooo good. The break dancers are officially the Andaman Crew who have been in several international competitions and won a few trophies. The girls are just pretty to watch :-}.

Now for those that don't know me all that well I have always had a fear of public speaking. I was so nervous about getting up in front of people and speaking I would rather cut my hand off. Then came the John. He first encouraged me just to walk across the stage during one of the bigger street scenes. He wanted more people walking around like the real life Bangla Road. Ok, I can do that, just don't run. So now, 7 months later I am in 2 skits at Junkyard, and 4 spots at the Marriott. Except for Mango Massage I don't really have any speaking parts, which is fine with me. There are many I could take but I am happy with what I do, although I am tempted. John has offered many times to pay me but my parts are mostly trivial and I told him I am retired don't want a job. And Michelle said She is the only boss I am allowed to have!!

Still alive in Phuket

17 June 2022
Vern Noren
I just realized it has been a year since our last post. We are still in Phuket and not a lot new and exciting to report. The borders in Malaysia and Indonesia are open again so we will be leaving before the end of the year. Unless more unexpected things happen. We have said goodbye to friends and left Phuket for the last time four times now. Maybe number five will be more successful for us. We like Phuket a lot and have made many friends but it is time to move on.
I have added some photo’s we have collected over the past year. We hope you enjoy looking.

Thailand bits and pieces

07 May 2021
Vern Noren
We have been "stuck" in Thailand for just over a year now. There are worse places to be stuck for sure. Phuket went 3 months without a new local case of Covid, then suddenly went from zero to 250+ in a matter of two weeks. The rest of the country is under severe restrictions in an effort to contain it again. Officials believe it all started with large groups of partying youths and other "socially entitled" in and around Bangkok. I just read the Thailand ranks 124th in the world for vaccine distribution.
It has not been boring. Since our last update several months ago we have become better friends with many of the locals, had $6,000 in damage to our boat, had our diesel engine commit suicide, and revisited my hippy days.
The photo gallery has many new pictures with no rhyme or reason to the assortment.

North Thailand

19 January 2021
Vern Noren
We took a 3 week trip to N Thailand to a region I have never been to before. Michelle toured parts of it several years ago when our son & grandson came to visit. The region is mountainous and mostly remote with many small towns and villages.

Many different ethnic groups live in the highlands, many with their own languages, customs, and beliefs. The weather is pleasantly cooler than down in Phuket, and things are a lot cheaper. Our most expensive hotel was $25/ night, most under $20, and the cheapest was $7/night with a balcony on the river.

Thailand Tales

11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
Vern Noren
It has been a while since our last update and a lot has happened. We returned to the marina for a month to have some boat work completed and repairs made, then returned to Phi Phi for two weeks. There was a big festival starting in Phuket which we did not want to miss so we sailed back to Chalong Harbor and anchored for a week.
We were in a gray area with immigration, we never got visa’s when we arrived last March, just crew papers that said we could stay legally for 30 day, NO renewal, No possibility to get visa’s. We spent two months talking to immigration officials, visa agent’s, other cruisers, with no solutions. Complicating the situation the harbor masters were instructed not to clear out any yachts to leave the country until borders opened up. So one agency says you cannot stay, another says your boat/home cannot leave. Immigration policy changes every few weeks here so everyone remains confused. Eventually it got sorted out after many, many trips to immigration. Every 30 days we have to return to the main office and they will stamp us in for another 30 days until borders open, which could be mid 2021, no one knows. At least our stress is greatly reduced.
To make things interesting the following is how we spent the second night in Chalong.
MIDNIGHT MADNESS

After living on board 16 years, and cruising full time the last 11 years we had a new first. We have been anchored in Chalong Bay, Thailand for the last few days. Big anchor, 200 ft chain on a mostly mud bottom, 10-1 scope. We always back down at full throttle and our reversing prop give us almost full thrust. Around midnight, as another of many short squalls barreled through the anchorage Michelle went out to check wind speed and our position. All good. Ten minutes later the wind picked up again and when she checked this time we were less than 10 meters from a catamaran that used to be 100+ meters away.
For the first time ever we had dragged our anchor but this was not the time to celebrate. I took the wheel as she tried to get the anchor up. The chain jumped out of the bow roller toward the middle so now she is pulling it up across the teak front lip. As I struggled to gain some control and keep us off the other boat the anchor winch breaker kept tripping from the strain of the pull. Too noisy from the howling wind and rain communication was impossible and I could only guess which direction the chain was leading. Complicating the situation was the full awnings we had up. They hindered visibility forward and acted like sails, pushing us around with great force.
We finally got the anchor up and headed down wind behind all the other boats and dropped all 250 feet of chain, the 55lb Delta anchor, large snubber, and a prayer. We wrestled the awnings down, the wind dropped to about 20 kts, and we were happy again.
In hindsight I think the new awnings were the main factor in our dragging since it had never happened before and we have used this anchorage many times.
When we finally settled back down to finish a movie we had been watching my wife gave me a kiss and said we did that whole thing without yelling at each other, like that has ever happened.
Start to finish of our adventure was one hour. Since we did not damage anyone else, worked together smoothly, it was all sort of fun in a demented kind of way.
Vessel Name: Enchantment
Vessel Make/Model: Island Packet 40
Hailing Port: Chicago
Crew: Vern & Michelle
About:
Vern, originally from Chicago, has lived in New Orleans and the Nashville, Tn area. I have been sailing for almost 40 years, have logged over 15,000 offshore miles and hold a 100 ton masters license. I also work as a critical care nurse. [...]
Extra: We are currently finishing with upgrades and improvements to Enchantment in preparation for a 3-4 year cruise from Baltimore to New Zealand. Our cruising kitty will be fully funded and our departure date is set for Oct 2010 with a transit of the Panama Canal late February 2011
Enchantment's Photos - Mixed album from our return to Enchantment
Photos 1 to 45 of 45 | Main
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Every 2-3 years a boat needs a new application of anti fouling paint to slow barnacle growth.  I always hire yard workers to do the dirty job of sanding off the old paint and barnacles.  Three coats of paint uses 5 gallons,  at $150-$250 per gallon it gets expensive,  plus cost of hauling and boat yard space add another $400-500.  A lot of barnacle growth can slow our speed by more than half so it needs to be done.
Our poor boat was so dirty after 5 months
I needed to install new engine mounts,  align propeller shaft, and other work that is only accessible by removing everything in the aft cabin.
Even a fairly simple job creates a big mess.  I have tools and parts spread around in several areas and by the time I gather everything I need it is chaos inside the boat.  Good thing Michelle was still in the States.  Not sure I had room for her too.
Bangkok is one of our favorite cities,  modern buildings and huge malls intermixed with mom & pop shops, old neighborhoods,  massage parlors, red light districts, fast food and street food stalls.  And 24 hr/day traffic jams.  This is a major intersection near our hotel.  When the light changes they all take off,  the motorcycles crisscrossing every which way,  it always looks like chaos but we
Paella,  a Latin dish of all things,  served by a street vendor at the huge weekend flea market.  A full meal for under $3.
We took a TukTuk food tour,  our second time,  and always fun.
Our guides
We got lucky and were the only two people on this tour,  we had 2 guides,  Tammy and  Pang, plus George?  who happened to be a historian of Thai culture and Bangkok history.  A nice bonus for us.  With such a small group the tour was more like an evening out with friends.   We ended up an hour and a half longer than scheduled because we were having such a great time.
The tour stops at several places to try dishes from different cooking styles around Thailand.   Here we had minced duck,  pork belly, papaya salad, pork & noodle soup.
We were lucky to have eaten down the street from small but famous street food vendor named Jai Fai.  When I heard this I asked our guides to show us there.  Jai Fai is a 73 year old lady that has been cooking street food most of her life.  From humble beginnings her unique flavors have  earned her a Michelin Star.  She is the only one that cooks in her restaurant and we were told that after 2pm if you do not have a reservation you will not get in.  Jai Fai was highlighted on a Net Flix documentary which is were we first heard of her.  If you like street food,  it
This lady makes small pastries that are similar in size and taste to donut holes.  Her business is just a small cart she pushes around to her favorite selling spots
There is a huge flower market open 24 hrs/day in Bangkok.  Flowers are a big part of honoring Bhuddah with daily offerings.
This small Bouquet of flowers was less than 10 cents
Wat Arun Ratchavararam temple,  across from our last stop on the food tour.
Soi Cowboy is a Red Light district, a few blocks from our hotel,  is one of the 3 main Red Light areas in Bangkok.  By day it is very tame,  mostly filled with workers buying their meals  from one of the many food carts on the street.   We walk through almost every day as a short cut to the street our hotel is on.  If you saw the movie Hangover Two  some of the scenes were filmed here.
By night most of the food carts are gone and the girls come out.  It is still early in these photo
The ladies were trying very hard to convince the gentlemen to go into their club.  One finally did while his friend stayed outside.
With all the Happy Ending massage parlors close by Michelle finally arranged for me to visit one.  The girls could have been prettier for sure,  at least I think they were girls !!!
They did like me a lot
Just before we left the marina our friends finally launched their boat. They brought it here from Columbia 4 years ago to have it completely gutted and rebuilt inside and out.  They had know idea it was going to take 4 years  but they didn
Yi-Lin and Vincent,  proud parents of s/v Hakuna Mattata.  They hope to finish up the inside and head back to Singapore, their home,  by end of December.  We are hoping they can stop in Rebak to share Christmas dinner with us.
First stop after the marina was PanYi,  a Muslin fishing village built on stilts over the water.  Population now about 1700,   originally from Bali, Indonesia the  2 families of Muslim seafarers eventually settled here in the early 18th century.  By 2000 fishing could no longer support the community and the local postman suggested inviting tourists to come.  Now it is mostly a tourist area but still the home to 360 families
Fantastic views from every where in the village.
The floating soccer field.
Ko Pani was a destination for season 19 of the Amazing race.
Our peaceful anchorage was visited by a local fisherman who sold us a kg of fresh shrimp.  He also had some crabs and small fish.  The price was fair but probably a little higher than normal for the area.
Michelle wanted to visit Pattaya,  a tourist town S of Bangkok,  being a good husband afraid to say No,  we went.  Se set up a tour which included transportation and attractions.  For me it was not worth the 3 1/2 hour r/t drive.
This place was the Nongnooch Gardens.  Very nicely landscaped and a huge area with elevated walkways.   Too many animal statues took away some of the beauty for me.  I think small children probably love this place.
They also had a short cultural show demonstrating regional costume and dance. The elephant being the national animal Michelle needed to make friends.
A new anchorage for us was Railay Beach.  It is only accessible by boat and is a funky tourist area with a
That small blue speck high up is Michelle at around 75 feet.  This was her 4th climb and she was going for the highest point at 100 feet.  She was just too tired to make it but we will be going back in a few days for her to try again.  Not bad for a gal in her 60
 
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