Given the rapid improvement in the weather, it didn’t take us long to hatch a plan for our weekend activities. As it is always tricky leaving a yacht at anchor for any length of time in case the weather changes, we were delighted that the weather forecast seemed stable enough for the skipper to join us for another visit to Split. As we had wanted to do the ‘Substructures’ of the Diocletian Palace, this seemed a perfect way to spend the day. We motored in the tender a short distance across our bay to a small boat marina and nudged into a spot which looked perfectly reasonable to us. Not so for No.2 in-charge of this little boat harbour as he abruptly waved us out! The skipper is not prone to accepting such ultimatums and filled with determination to succeed, he set off to find No 1 in-charge, who was far more reasonable about our need to dock for a few hours. All we had to do was pay No 2 €30 cash and all would be well! That’s how the system works: good cop, bad cop!!
We walked into town with a spring in our step to visit the Substructures. It was a beautiful morning, with everything sparkling under the blue cloudless sky. The Substructures are high vaulted stone chambers on a massive scale which were originally intended merely to elevate the Emperor’s chambers, but Diocletian soon realised it was a perfect place for storage. Later in the Middle Ages, a cistern and a wine and oil press occupied a section of the space but sadly, the majority was used as a waste pit for the residential accommodation above. Apart from the fame that came to the Substructures through Series 2 of Game of Thrones, the space is now a venue for a range of community activities, such as flower shows along with painting and sculpture exhibitions. By the time we had concluded our visit it was time for a leisurely lunch at Oh La La! We finished off our visit by enjoying a delicious gelato as we sauntered back to Trilogy. Once on board, the skipper braved the chilly water for a swim while the rest of us retreated down below for some downtime. Our dinner was al fresco style, enjoying the delicious local cheeses and cured ham, olives, walnuts and strawberries (oh soo good!) that we bought at the Saturday street market. Robert spotted dolphins dancing and diving happily close by, which was a fitting end to a happy day.
A blissful night of sleep followed and when we awoke there was every promise of an even warmer sunny day. This being Sunday, in the local park an open air church service was being held and we paused to listen to the beautiful, strong alto voice sing the verses of a hymn while the considerable crowd of worshippers joined in for the chorus. We took a 20 minute Uber ride to the UNESCO-listed historic town of Trogir, located on the coast due west of Split. It has a well preserved old town, which has a mixture of Renaissance, Baroque and Romanesque buildings. It lies on a small island connected to the mainland by a bridge and a second small bridge connects it to the island of Človo.
Trogir, named Tragurian by the Greeks in the 3rd Century BC, has been continuously occupied since that time. It was a centre for trade and was enclosed by a megalithic wall. Trogir demonstrates the influence of various cultures throughout its history - Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Hungarian and Venetian. The construction of the Cathedral of St Lawrence was begun around 1200 and dominates the main square. The Bell Tower was added in the late 16th Century, which offers excellent views over the town and beyond. Adjacent to the Cathedral is the Town Hall built during the 14th and 15th Centuries. Perched on the edge of the old town is a massive Venetian fortress, known as Kamerlengo. Today it is only possible to visit the tower of the fortress which provides good views also, but as the ticket seller was highly distracted by a huge swarm of wasps that had decided to take up residence, we opted out of the tower climb! However, the Cathedral and its Bell Tower did get climbed. Just wandering the very narrow streets made the visit worthwhile. The buildings have a homogeneous appearance due to the predominant use of local limestone, the weathering producing a mellow creamy hue. As it is the tourist pre-season, it was very pleasant meandering in these small passages, taking in the quaint and curious features. Our lunch was equally pleasant, as we chose an inner, open air courtyard restaurant which offered fish soup, a mixed plate of grilled fish (prawns, mussels, sardines and red fish) and a generous salad for €15. To that we added a bottle of rosé and bread for mopping up, and we were very content; but to be totally content....well, we added a delicious gelato! Our Uber trip home was memorable because our heavily tattooed, shaved-head driver blasted us with his choice of Metal FM ‘music’. Robert was in the front seat and from the back seat we could feel his pain as the exaggerated volume pounded his eardrums! He seemed to be quite an interesting guy, but conversation was stymied. A light evening meal finished off another interesting day.
Monday was the day we had been told that the replacement alternator would arrive. Lunchtime came and the skipper was beginning to have his doubts as there was still no message from Top! But, true to his word, Top did call early afternoon and he sent a technician to connect a refurbished alternator to Trilogy. Top’s plan was to provide a means of getting Trilogy into the marina adjacent to his workshop for the fitting of the new alternator the next morning. Meanwhile, with a day restricted to being on board, we busied ourselves with washing clothes and various other cleaning tasks, until the sun set slowly behind the islands offshore.
Tuesday morning and we were to be in the marina at 8am. We were making ready to pull in the anchor, only to find that the throttle was not working....again we were dead in the water! Top was wondering where we were, but to our rescue once more, Top and his electrician reversed the plans and came to where Trilogy was anchored. A quick revision of plans meant Lynette and I were deposited on shore for some supply shopping while Top and his electrician were ferried back to Trilogy. Even for the professionals it was not an easy task to connect the new alternator to all the various wires but the job got done and finally all was well, except for the engine rev counter, but that job could wait! The last task before we departed for yonder shores was to take the tender into the marina to pay Top for his unerring efforts to assist Trilogy and her crew. He said to the skipper: You were at sea with only an anchor, I had to help you!! If only all service people were so generous in spirit, and in our hearts Top is tops!!

A new season of cruising on board Trilogy is underway. The preparations began at the shipyard in Tivat, Montenegro where Trilogy had spent the European winter months. During that time, a considerable amount of work was requested to be completed and thankfully most tasks were done to the satisfaction of the owners. New teak decking replaced the old worn deck on the swim platform and the remaining teak was renovated to look like new. This has made a huge difference to the appearance of the cockpit area! All rigging lines were replaced and new anchor chain and capstan installed. Another major job completed was replacement of the rudder bearings. Trilogy was back in the water a few days after Peter and Garth arrived in Tivat and then they began work on the long list of jobs to recommission Trilogy's multitude of systems. Methodically, the duo worked long hard days, often bum up in awkward spaces, checking and rechecking the smooth running of all things, both fixed and movable. Eventually they were ready to motor north to Split in Croatia where a new mainsail and headsail were awaiting the arrival of Trilogy. The original set of sails had served Trilogy very well, sailing the Atlantic Ocean twice, not to mention the thousands of miles of cruising in the Mediterranean and Caribbean since 2012. More hard work commenced once Trilogy was berthed in the ACI marina at Split, with the next round of tasks to be completed. New rigging was installed by a rigger less than competent, which resulted in a mouse getting stuck in the mast. In spite of his best efforts, two days later it was still stuck in the mast, with no hope of retrieving it! The outboard motor was fired up, only to find that the water pump was faulty and clearly had not been serviced satisfactorily. In Split, local outboard service agent was extremely busy and did not appear for several days but in the nick of time, the outboard was hauled away for the much needed repairs. In the meantime, a new 5 hp Mercury outboard was purchased so that Trilogy could depart the next morning.
Joining Garth and I on the first leg of our cruising this year in the Dalmatian Islands off the coast of Croatia are Robert and Lynette, who loved their maiden voyage so much last year that they put their hands up for more. We are delighted to welcome them on board again, with the promise that there will be no overnight passages, as was the case last season. Within a day or two of them stepping on board last year, Trilogy sailed from Taormina in Sicily to Fiskcardo on the Greek island of Kefalonia, across the Ionian Sea a voyage which took some 29 hours. Apparently many a tale has been told of that experience!
Split is a beautiful city on the coast of Croatia, situated about 230 kms by road north of Dubrovnik. Initially settled by the Greeks between the 3rd and 4th centuries, the most important development in its early history was when the Roman Emperor Diocletian ordered a residence be built at Split for his retirement, around 295 AD. The particular location was because Split was near the large Roman settlement of Salona, where Diocletian had been born. The palace took over 10 years to build and Diocletian lived there until he died. Many later Roman rulers used the palace but by the 6th century, it had fallen into disrepair and was disused for over 400 years. The Venetians conquered Split in 1420 and ruled until 1797, when there was a period of Austrian rule and also a brief French period of rule.
The modern history of Split occurred after the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, when it became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes in 1918. In 1941 Split was occupied by the Italians but a strong resistance movement developed and when Italy capitulated in WW2, it was able to be liberated in 1943. However, Germany remained in control until 1944 and at the conclusion of WW2, it became part of Yugoslavia.
Fast forward to the War of Independence of 1991-95, when the majority of Croats through a referendum voted to leave Yugoslavia and become a sovereign country. They successfully achieved this aim in 1991 and international recognition was achieved in 1992. Split did not suffer much damage during this terrible conflict, however the thriving ship building industry that had been established in Split during the pre-war period, slowly declined. Most recently, tourism has once more brought prosperity to Split and justifiably so.
Victualling is always a major task and this time was no different. We shopped at Konzum Hypermarket, a taxi ride away from the marina, but it proved to have a comprehensive range, enough to complete the shopping in one hit. The usual staring at labels to decide if it was actually what we wanted to purchase prolonged the process but equally, it added to our curiosity and insight into the typical Croatian dietary habits. Back at Trilogy, we took a quick break for lunch, enjoying the local pastries filled with spinach, cheese and meats called bareks, before stowing all our shopping under the floor boards, overhead lockers, fridge and freezer.
Job done, we walked 20 minutes from the marina to the old town of Split and enjoyed the beauty of the light cream stone buildings, seemingly arranged in an ad hoc fashion, glistening in the late afternoon sun. We ate dinner at Konoba Fetivi, enjoying a local beef dish called Pašticada (Dalmatian Beef Stew). It is marinated in vinegar for 12 hours before being lightly roasted and then served with a tangy gravy and gnocchi. Yes, there is a strong Italian cuisine influence in Croatian food, hence the gnocchi. As we strolled along the waterfront back to Trilogy, the light of the full moon took our gaze into the sky.
Next day, we were still waiting for our outboard motor to be collected so that we could depart, which allowed for a visit to the Old Town to see the Diocletian Palace. It is a large complex and although parts have succumbed to removal of stones for other purposes, other sections have survived the test of time. Rectangular in layout, there are four gates of entry - Golden, Silver, Iron and Brass. We visited the Temple of Jupiter, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius (Diocletian's Mauseleum), the Crypt and Museum. What we did not have time to visit was the 'Substructures', where the 2022 Game of Thrones series was filmed. Dinner that night was at Šperun, where we dined on lamb cutlets and veal chops, served with boiled potatoes and grilled vegetables.
With light winds predicted for early the next morning and the outboard motor finally collected, it was time to depart the marina. With only half the length of Trilogy available to manoeuvre out of the marina, the skipper did a superb job of easing Trilogy out of her berth and beyond the marina. After refuelling, we headed out into the sparkling harbour to our first port of call....or did we?
No sooner had we turned the corner than a strong burning smell emanated from the engine housing! Words like 'Oh dear' were not strong enough to describe our fears! About half a mile off-shore in 45 metres depth of water, we were adrift. The skipper swung into problem solving, the first of which was to get Trilogy closer to the shore and securely anchored. Tentatively, he powered up the cooled engine and motored towards our chosen anchorage in about 10 metres depth with a sandy bottom. We quickly realised how fortunate we were to be so close to shore and therefore help!
Immediately, phone calls to Australia to Peter, brought forth discussion and advice as to how to proceed. Peter had replaced the fan belt just before he had departed Split, but with hind sight, the problem was the alternator. Peter swung into action and hatched a plan for the removal of the alternator and delivery to the electrician in Split. By late afternoon the alternator was in the hands of 'Top', the head of the engineering for the marina, and the following morning it was revealed that the alternator was cactus and beyond repair. The advice was to order a new alternator which could be supplied after the weekend.
Meanwhile the weather deteriorated and we hunkered down around the corner from the marina. At first we thought we might have to limp back into the marina, but a safer option was to stay put. A series of squawls rolled over Trilogy and the best thing to do was stay below and stay warm for the rest of the day. The poor weather continued right through the night, costing the skipper a sleepless night. He had realised that Trilogy was anchored quite close to a drop-off and the concern was that there was not enough anchor chain out. However, the anchor held tight and we made it through the night. We woke to sunshine and our spirits once more lifted. Now we could go ashore and relax with the locals.

Through the Challenges: A Day in the Marina

The wind, relentless and wild, swept over us at 37 knots, then escalated to a formidable 40 knots. Yesterday, it seemed the elements conspired against our sail, urging us to seek refuge in the heart of our vessel. Internal tasks became our focus as the tempest raged outside.

Today, a glimmer of respite graced our frozen domain. Though the day remained cold enough to nip at our skin, we found solace in attending to our life jackets. With the air conditioning set to HEAT mode, we meticulously affixed devices to these vital safety tools. Connecting them to our mobile phones proved a challenge, demanding patience and precision. Yet, despite the hurdles, we emerged victorious, save for one stubborn device destined for return to its supplier.

My hands found purpose in the starboard lazarette, a domain often overlooked yet essential. Here, I replaced the neglected fuel filter that NAVAR had forgotten. A task that once seemed routine now serves as a reminder of the toll time takes on the body. Yet, determination fuels my resolve, urging me to persist in these duties for a few more years.

Amidst the chores and repairs, a glimmer of anticipation stirred within us. The headsail sheets and furler line awaited deployment, a testament to our readiness for the challenges ahead. Tomorrow promises a reprieve from the relentless weather, an opportunity to unfurl our sails and embrace the horizon with renewed vigor.

As I sit here, the gentle sway of the vessel beneath me, memories of past voyages flood my mind. The sound of Quito's voice drifting from the Caribbean stirs nostalgia, reminding me of journeys past aboard Trilogy. Each wave carries echoes of adventures shared, binding us to the vast expanse of the sea.

In the face of adversity, we find strength. Through toil and perseverance, we navigate the ever-changing currents, bound by a shared love for the open water. And as the sun sets on another day at sea, we remain steadfast, ready to embrace whatever tomorrow may bring.

Ahoy fellow sailors. Today's journey saw us bid farewell to the historic port of Korsula, the very birthplace of the legendary Marco Polo. With our sails tucked away in the still sail locker, we relied on our trusty motor to guide us through the gentle waters, for the wind seemed to be playing hide and seek with us.
Our destination? Tupeci, a charming town nestled just south of Makarska, where we were eager to reunite with old friends and soak in the beauty of the Adriatic coastline once more.
As fate would have it, we were greeted by the warm embrace of one of Peter's longtime friends, Maria. A true Croatian gem who, despite the passage of time, remained unchanged in her kindness and grace. Maria's journey had taken her from the shores of Australia back to her homeland, and we were fortunate to share in her stories of adventure and nostalgia.
Joined by Maria's brother, we talked about life on the Dalmatian coast, and the hordes of tourists that frequent the toen over summer. As we said farewell to Bogamir our merry band set out to explore the quaint streets of Tupeci, each corner filled with echoes of history and the vibrant spirit of its inhabitants. And what better way to cap off our reunion than with a leisurely lunch overlooking the bustling Marina of Makarska, where the scent of salt and sea mingled with the laughter of old friends.
As the day gently drifted into evening, Trilogy cast her anchor off the coast of Tupeci, a sight to behold against the backdrop of the setting sun, we headed to our anchorage for the night.

Today's log comes to you from the tranquil waters of the Adriatic, where Trilogy has embarked on yet another exhilarating journey. Last night brought unexpected excitement as we weathered a sudden storm in the Montenegro marina.
As the winds roared at 35 knots, Garth, our ever-vigilant skipper, sprang into action. For two hours, he valiantly fendered off our neighbouring vessels, ensuring we stayed secure amidst the tempest. Such dedication embodies the essence of a skilled skipper, willing to sacrifice sleep for the safety of the crew. Meanwhile, I blissfully slumbered through the commotion, oblivious to the chaos outside.
Morning light revealed chatter among the marina folk about the "Hugh" storm that had swept through. Yet, thanks to Garth's diligence, Trilogy emerged unscathed, ready to set sail once more. With smooth clearance from Montenegro customs and immigration--albeit amidst grumbles from the staff--we embarked on our next leg at 08:30.
The rugged beauty of Montenegro's coastline unfolded before us, with glimpses of a submarine base and the curious sight of a "5-star tourist jail." Despite facing headwinds, Trilogy surged ahead, propelled by the spirit of adventure.
Arriving in Dubrovnik, Croatia, we encountered a surprising twist: Garth and I were deemed temporary residents, raising questions about our Schengen days. It seems our journey is never short on bureaucratic surprises. Nevertheless, we press on, embracing the challenges as part of the seafaring experience.
Amidst administrative tasks, we received word of the imminent arrival of our ST-70 display--a crucial addition to Trilogy's navigation arsenal. Customs clearance was swiftly dealt with. A, reminder to Trilogy skippers to ensure all crew members are over 12 years old are duly listed with the Harbour Masterto avoid complications.
Tonight finds us anchored in a picturesque bay reminiscent of a bygone fishing village, nestled beneath the watchful gaze of The Dubrovnik castle. Tonight Garth takes on the role of chef, treating us to a hearty Spag-bol feast--a fitting reward for a day of navigation and unexpected twists.
As the sun sets over the Adriatic horizon, we raise a toast to the wonders of the sea and the camaraderie of the Trilogy crew. Tomorrow promises new adventures as we chart our course through the azure waters of Croatia. Until then, fair winds and following seas.

Trilogy set sail at 7am for Montenegro. The winds promised to be light and variable, a perfect weather window for the voyage. We hoisted the mainsail as soon as we were out of the bay and that allowed us to motor cruise at an average of 7 knots. The total distance of the passage was 155 NM and we broke into two watches from 9am on a 3 hourly rotation.
Following the coast of Albania for most of the daylight hours, intrigued us all. The skipper had read as much information as he could about the pros and cons of visiting Albania and the overwhelming weight of information was that Albania only had a few big ports that welcomed yachties but each of those ports had to be officially entered and departed. On this basis, our passage did not include entering Albania. What we saw across the water were high steep mountains with very little foliage, tumbling into the sea and smallish communities nestled on whatever flat ground at sea level was available. At one point we could see a long snaking road scouring the foothills and strange looking housing developments on either side of dirt covered areas. We eventually decided that there had been a landslide of considerable proportions that reached the sea. It seemed that there was a deep gorge either side of the snaking road , that probably collected the torrent of water from the mountain slopes behind, when it rained or snowed. One gully had been dammed and the housing developments may have been hastily constructed to house the homeless residents.
So what can we learn about Albania from other sources? In the antiquity, Albania was home to several Illyrian tribes, but also Thracian and Greek tribes. In the 3rd C BC the land was annexed by Rome and became part of some Roman provinces. The territory remained under Roman and Byzantine control until the Slavic migrations of the 7th C. Between the mid 14th and late 15 C, most of modern day Albania was dominated by Albanian principalities, which fell to the rapid invasion of the Ottoman Empire. It wasn’t until late November 1912 that the first independent Albanian state was founded, following a short occupation by Serbia. The formation of the Albanian national consciousness dates to the late 19th C.
In the 20th C there were two short-lived monarchies with a Republic in between. Albania was occupied by Italy just prior to World War 11 and during World War 11 by Nazi Germany. At the end of the war it became a one-party communist state. The communist regime collapsed in 1990 and this was followed by a period of instability with economic collapse and social unrest. It wasn’t until the beginning of the 21st C that improvement in the economic and social conditions enabled Albania to become a full member of NATO and the country is currently undergoing preparations to join the EU.
Albania is mountainous, with about three quarters of its territory being mountains and hills of elevations more than 200 metres. In the Northern Albanian Alps, the mountains are close to 2700 metres high and this is the least populated and most rugged and forested part of the country. The most important agricultural and industrial region and most densely populated therefore, are the low fertile plains of western Albania. The longest river is the Drin, with a length of 280 kms and Albania also has many lakes.
Like most Balkan people, Albanians shake their heads sideways to say ‘yes’ and usually nod their head and say ‘tsk’ to say ‘no’. Another interesting stat is that 70% of Albanians are Muslim, 20% Christian Orthodox and 10% Catholic but it is generally held that up to 75% of Albanians are atheists as religion was stamped out by the 1967 cultural revolution and Albania remains a very secular society.
As night fell, the darkness presented its own challenges. We were blessed with a clear sky and a gazillion stars, but with that came a heavy dew. We needed to don our warmer gear to repel the dampness that settled on Trilogy. The greatest challenge were fishing boats off the west coast of Albania. These vessels do not reveal themselves on AIS and displayed minimal lights. Approaching a single small white light believed to be a fishing vessel, it is not possible to judge the distance between Trilogy and the light until far too close. Training the binoculars on the light source may not reveal any new information, but eventually you may see a port or starboard navigation light, or if you are extra lucky, both lights together. It is hard to judge if the vessel is underway and if so, at what speed. As large fishing boats often trail nets behind them, this is a significant hazard for yachts. Trilogy had three close encounters during this night sail, and each time the watch members were somewhat shaken by the episode - firstly the uncertainty, then the reality and finally the evasive action required - all a bit taxing!
We dropped anchor in an open bay with sandy bottom called Kruce Rakita Beach around 5am. Before all of us headed for bed, the Greek courtesy flag was lowered and the yellow quarantine flag raised, so all would know of our intentions. The southern port of entry for Montenegro is Bar, 7NMs to the north of this bay. The skipper had decided not to anchor within the port of Bar as it is an industrial harbour with major shipping and circling around off the port was not a good option either.
However, next morning Trilogy entered the harbour and the skipper used the dock-and-go system to smoothly slide Trilogy sideways into a tight spot on the customs wharf. The officials were already on dockside waiting for us. A female with a stern manner requested the skipper to proceed with her and the rest of us were not allowed to leave Trilogy. Her ‘colleagues’, two very nice customs police were left to guard Trilogy. It wasn’t long before we were chatting to them and we learnt that they were seconded from the EU (one from the Netherlands and one from Austria) to oversee the change of processes that Montenegro were undergoing, in order to be accepted for EU membership. We waited and waited and eventually the skipper was sent back to Trilogy while yet more paperwork and formalities were completed. Then the skipper was summoned again and he was sternly cautioned by the Harbour Master for not sailing directly into the port and furthermore, did not telephone him at 5am, on arrival. The final cost for tourist passes for us all for Montenegro and Greek transit and customs fees was fees and fines to enter Montenegro was €300.
Meanwhile the crew amused themselves on board Trilogy and before long the nice policemen were called away to supervise other foreign yacht arrivals. One doubtful looking character was escorted by our nice policemen to a car .....where were they taking him?? An Australian registered catamaran called CathayOz was also checking in to Montenegro and the skipper told us that in the last 18 months the two of them had sailed from Sydney, through Asia, India, the Red Sea and into the Med. He hailed from Narrabeen and went to the same High School as Ross.....it’s a small world after all!
Four hours later, approval was granted for Trilogy and her crew to visit Montenegro and our skipper was able to return to his beloved yacht. By 4pm we were anchored in Malevich Bay, a small bay that had a bar and a few beach chairs for hire, but otherwise was surrounded by bushland. We swam to refresh ourselves and it was sometime later that we realised there was nude bathing at one end of the bay. Ignoring that, the bay offered a calm and secure anchorage which was just what we needed, a place to crash for the night and catch up on sleep.
Next morning, three of us set off for a walk into the closest village. This started with a short sharp climb up a very rough concreted road and from then, it was a kilometre or two walk into the town proper. We had to walk past a dog pound, that had a nasty bunch of bored dogs behind a high fence (thank goodness) and before long we were walking past low rise apartment blocks, all with a dilapidated appearance and rubbish liberally dumped on vacant lots. We saw a lovely little bakery selling a range of nice looking savoury breads, but as it was a cash only business, we could not buy anything. Around the next bend we came to a cafe which had a wood fired pizza oven preparing pocket bread for their specialty hamburgers, called pljeskavica. We did not know at the time, but these are regarded as the jewel of Montenegrin cuisine! The chef was English speaking and we enjoyed a chat with him. In a discussion about the pljeskavica, we learned that the meat could be beef, pork or chicken; there are not wild goats but there are some wild sheep, however lamb meat is not affordable in Montenegro. We were able to order cappuccinos but decaffeinated coffee is not known. It seems that tea is not a national drink either. The feeling was of winding back the clock 40-50 years; both men and women were seen smoking heavily, very old model cars mixed it with newer but not the latest models of vehicles and a passive surliness from everyone except our English speaking chef, who seemed delighted to talk to us. Back on board Trilogy set sail, but not before enjoying a nice swim and checking out some inviting caves.
The passage plan along the coast of Montenegro was short hops for the next few days. Two NMs further north, we dropped anchor in another lovely bay called Uvala Pecin. We ate another delicious Trilogy lunch and then relaxed for the afternoon, before two big snorkelling expeditions to the northern and southern shores. The southern rocky shore offered intriguing caves and the northern side had shafts of rock that appeared like a forgotten city. The sunset that night was stunning, not because of the sun per say, but the sun-kissed clouds and their reflections across the bay.
Our next port of call was Uvala Jaz. This was a wide open bay and we were entertained with all manner of water sport activities. It was a long swim to shore due to marker buoys being set well out and it seemed like Trilogy became the challenge for jetski drivers to aim at and zoom around, along with paddle boarders. When the crowd thinned on the beach we ventured into the water for a cooling swim but stayed around Trilogy, just in case.....
Next morning we all went ashore to have a walk and get a feel for the place. One end of the beach was devoted to low key resorts and the other end was for restaurants. As it was fast approaching the end of the season in mid September, there was quite a bit of packing up of the various paraphernalia on the beach...beach lounges, umbrellas, beach toys, but there were still significant numbers of beach lovers present, so it was not entirely put away. We found a cafe open for an early morning coffee and were a bit overwhelmed by the loud music and cigarette smoke. We departed and as we were approaching the end of the beach where the tender was tied up, we noticed another cafe that seemed more to our liking, so another round of coffees happened.
Back on Trilogy we continued for another 8NMs to reach Uvala Oblatna. On our way we could see several building construction sites, developing massive hotels. The appearance was ugly from afar, so goodness knows if the closeup was any better. There is no doubt that there are enormous funds being poured into tourism in Montenegro but the question remains, who is doing the funding??
Uvala Oblatna is another wide bay and we anchored to the left side. In front of us was one taverna, but it seemed that there was no road in and the only access was by foot or water. We swam in warmer water than than we had previously experienced and hatched a plan to go around to the main township next morning. We were all of the view that this was a completely new town that may well not have occupants yet. The street lights came on at dusk plus a few more lights in buildings, so we were curious to see what the story was. Some of us got dropped off at the taverna and walked on a board walk most of the way around the headland to the start of the town buildings. The others took the dinghy into the small harbour which was hidden behind a massive sea wall. We were all amazed to realise that this was indeed a very new development, pitched at the wealthy. The marina did not offer any yacht services but it provided a very safe haven for small to medium craft. The marina surrounds were very upmarket, with quality restaurants, hotels and retail stores catering for all the beautiful people. We were delighted to find that a bakery was open and we all enjoyed something to eat, along with coffee in the early morning sunshine.
Our final port of call for this wonderful sail from Catania in Sicily was Tivat in Montenegro. Tivat is a coastal town located in the central part of the Bay of Kotor, nestled under Mt Vrmac, which is 785 metres high. Mt Vrmac is a popular destination for hiking, orienteering and mountain biking. Tivat has a population of about 14,000 people.
The Bay of Kotor, also known as Boka, was surprisingly beautiful as we approached Tivat. It has been described as a winding bay of the Adriatic Sea and has been inhabited since the antiquity. It is about 28 kms long and is surrounded by two large mountain spines: the Orjen mountains to the west and the Lovćen mountains to the east. The bay is composed of several smaller broad bays, united by narrower channels. The bay inlet was formerly a river system which by tectonic and karstification processes, disintegrated.
We entered the marina and found our way to D15, where with virtually no wind, the skipper positioned Trilogy perfectly between two very large motor cruisers. It felt very hot in the marina and it didn’t take long for us all to work up a thirst. Plugged in to water and power, we soon had the aircon cooling below decks.
From here on the schedule is focused on preparing Trilogy for the winter months. Trilogy is currently located in Porto Montenegro, a large and very modern marina. The facilities are modern and clean and there are more restaurants than you can count, all vying for the tourist dollar. All the big brand fashion stores are showcased, so anything your little heart desires can be found.
This is the last report for this season. Thank you to all who have joined Trilogy in 2023 and have contributed to the success of the journey. For the last 7 weeks we have enjoyed beautiful scenery and weather, had a close-up look at some of the Ionian Islands and have had a tempting taste of Montenegro. Next year Trilogy will move further north into the Adriatic Sea and cruise the coast of Croatia.

Ros Brice