A new season of cruising on board Trilogy is underway. The preparations began at the shipyard in Tivat, Montenegro where Trilogy had spent the European winter months. During that time, a considerable amount of work was requested to be completed and thankfully most tasks were done to the satisfaction the owners. New teak decking replaced the old worn deck on the swim platform and the remaining teak was renovated to look like new. This has made a huge difference to the appearance of the cockpit area! All rigging lines were replaced and new anchor chain and capstan installed. Another major job completed was replacement of the rudder bearings. Trilogy was back in the water a few days after Peter and Garth arrived in Tivat and then they began work on the long list of jobs to recommission Trilogy’s multitude of systems. Methodically, the duo worked long hard days, often bum up in awkward spaces, checking and rechecking the smooth running of all things, both fixed and movable. Eventually they were ready to motor north to Split in Croatia where a new mainsail and headsail were awaiting the arrival of Trilogy. The original set of sails had served Trilogy very well, sailing the Atlantic Ocean twice, not to mention the thousands of miles of cruising in the Mediterranean and Caribbean since 2012. More hard work commenced once Trilogy was berthed in the ACI marina at Split, with the next round of tasks to be completed. New rigging was installed by a rigger less than competent, which resulted in a mouse getting stuck in the mast. In spite of his best efforts, two days later it was still stuck in the mast, with no hope of retrieving it! The outboard motor was fired up, only to find that the water pump was faulty and clearly had not been serviced satisfactorily. In Split, local outboard service agent was extremely busy and did not appear for several days but in the nick of time, the outboard was hauled away for the much needed repairs. In the meantime, a new 5 hp Mercury outboard was purchased so that Trilogy could depart the next morning.
Joining Garth and I on the first leg of our cruising this year in the Dalmatian Islands off the coast of Croatia are Robert and Lynette, who loved their maiden voyage so much last year that they put their hands up for more. We are delighted to welcome them on board again, with the promise that there will be no overnight passages, as was the case last season. Within a day or two of them stepping on board last year, Trilogy sailed from Taormina in Sicily to Fiskcardo on the Greek island of Kefalonia, across the Ionian Sea a voyage which took some 29 hours. Apparently many a tale has been told of that experience!
Split is a beautiful city on the coast of Croatia, situated about 230 kms by road north of Dubrovnik. Initially settled by the Greeks between the 3rd and 4th centuries, the most important development in its early history was when the Roman Emperor Diocletian ordered a residence be built at Split for his retirement, around 295 AD. The particular location was because Split was near the large Roman settlement of Salona, where Diocletian had been born. The palace took over 10 years to build and Diocletian lived there until he died. Many later Roman rulers used the palace but by the 6th century, it had fallen into disrepair and was disused for over 400 years. The Venetians conquered Split in 1420 and ruled until 1797, when there was a period of Austrian rule and also a brief French period of rule.
The modern history of Split occurred after the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, when it became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes in 1918. In 1941 Split was occupied by the Italians but a strong resistance movement developed and when Italy capitulated in WW2, it was able to be liberated in 1943. However, Germany remained in control until 1944 and at the conclusion of WW2, it became part of Yugoslavia.
Fast forward to the War of Independence of 1991-95, when the majority of Croats through a referendum voted to leave Yugoslavia and become a sovereign country. They successfully achieved this aim in 1991 and international recognition was achieved in 1992. Split did not suffer much damage during this terrible conflict, however the thriving ship building industry that had been established in Split during the pre-war period, slowly declined. Most recently, tourism has once more brought prosperity to Split and justifiably so.
Victualling is always a major task and this time was no different. We shopped at Konzum Hypermarket, a taxi ride away from the marina, but it proved to have a comprehensive range, enough to complete the shopping in one hit. The usual staring at labels to decide if it was actually what we wanted to purchase prolonged the process but equally, it added to our curiosity and insight into the typical Croatian dietary habits. Back at Trilogy, we took a quick break for lunch, enjoying the local pastries filled with spinach, cheese and meats called bareks, before stowing all our shopping under the floor boards, overhead lockers, fridge and freezer.
Job done, we walked 20 minutes from the marina to the old town of Split and enjoyed the beauty of the light cream stone buildings, seemingly arranged in an ad hoc fashion, glistening in the late afternoon sun. We ate dinner at Konoba Fetivi, enjoying a local beef dish called Pašticada (Dalmatian Beef Stew). It is marinated in vinegar for 12 hours before being lightly roasted and then served with a tangy gravy and gnocchi. Yes, there is a strong Italian cuisine influence in Croatian food, hence the gnocchi. As we strolled along the waterfront back to Trilogy, the light of the full moon took our gaze into the sky.
Next day, we were still waiting for our outboard motor to be collected so that we could depart, which allowed for a visit to the Old Town to see the Diocletian Palace. It is a large complex and although parts have succumbed to removal of stones for other purposes, other sections have survived the test of time. Rectangular in layout, there are four gates of entry - Golden, Silver, Iron and Brass. We visited the Temple of Jupiter, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius (Diocletian’s Mauseleum), the Crypt and Museum. What we did not have time to visit was the ‘Substructures’, where the 2022 Game of Thrones series was filmed. Dinner that night was at Šperun, where we dined on lamb cutlets and veal chops, served with boiled potatoes and grilled vegetables.
With light winds predicted for early the next morning and the outboard motor finally collected, it was time to depart the marina. With only half the length of Trilogy available to manoeuvre out of the marina, the skipper did a superb job of easing Trilogy out of her berth and beyond the marina. After refuelling, we headed out into the sparkling harbour to our first port of call....or did we?
No sooner had we turned the corner than a strong burning smell emanated from the engine housing! Words like ‘Oh dear’ were not strong enough to describe our fears! About half a mile off-shore in 45 metres depth of water, we were adrift. The skipper swung into problem solving, the first of which was to get Trilogy closer to the shore and securely anchored. Tentatively, he powered up the cooled engine and motored towards our chosen anchorage in about 10 metres depth with a sandy bottom. We quickly realised how fortunate we were to be so close to shore and therefore help!
Immediately, phone calls to Australia to Peter, brought forth discussion and advice as to how to proceed. Peter had replaced the fan belt just before he had departed Split, but with hind sight, the problem was the altimeter. Peter swung into action and hatched a plan for the removal of the altimeter and deliveyr to the electrician in Split. By late afternoon the altimeter was in the hands of ‘Top’, the head of the engineering for the marina, and the following morning it was revealed that the altimeter was cactus, and beyond repair. The advice was to order a new altimeter which could be supplied after the weekend.
Meanwhile the weather deteriorated and we hunkered down around the corner from the marina. At first we though we might have to limp back into the marina, but a safer option was to stay put. A series of squawls rolled over Trilogy and the best thing to do was stay below and stay warm for the rest of the day. The poor weather continued right through the night, costing the skipper a sleepless night. He had realised that Trilogy was anchored quite close to a drop-off and the concern was that there was not enough anchor chain out. However, the anchor held tight and we made it through the night. We woke to sunshine and our spirits once more lifted. Now we could go ashore and relax with the locals.

Through the Challenges: A Day in the Marina

The wind, relentless and wild, swept over us at 37 knots, then escalated to a formidable 40 knots. Yesterday, it seemed the elements conspired against our sail, urging us to seek refuge in the heart of our vessel. Internal tasks became our focus as the tempest raged outside.

Today, a glimmer of respite graced our frozen domain. Though the day remained cold enough to nip at our skin, we found solace in attending to our life jackets. With the air conditioning set to HEAT mode, we meticulously affixed devices to these vital safety tools. Connecting them to our mobile phones proved a challenge, demanding patience and precision. Yet, despite the hurdles, we emerged victorious, save for one stubborn device destined for return to its supplier.

My hands found purpose in the starboard lazarette, a domain often overlooked yet essential. Here, I replaced the neglected fuel filter that NAVAR had forgotten. A task that once seemed routine now serves as a reminder of the toll time takes on the body. Yet, determination fuels my resolve, urging me to persist in these duties for a few more years.

Amidst the chores and repairs, a glimmer of anticipation stirred within us. The headsail sheets and furler line awaited deployment, a testament to our readiness for the challenges ahead. Tomorrow promises a reprieve from the relentless weather, an opportunity to unfurl our sails and embrace the horizon with renewed vigor.

As I sit here, the gentle sway of the vessel beneath me, memories of past voyages flood my mind. The sound of Quito's voice drifting from the Caribbean stirs nostalgia, reminding me of journeys past aboard Trilogy. Each wave carries echoes of adventures shared, binding us to the vast expanse of the sea.

In the face of adversity, we find strength. Through toil and perseverance, we navigate the ever-changing currents, bound by a shared love for the open water. And as the sun sets on another day at sea, we remain steadfast, ready to embrace whatever tomorrow may bring.

Ahoy fellow sailors. Today's journey saw us bid farewell to the historic port of Korsula, the very birthplace of the legendary Marco Polo. With our sails tucked away in the still sail locker, we relied on our trusty motor to guide us through the gentle waters, for the wind seemed to be playing hide and seek with us.
Our destination? Tupeci, a charming town nestled just south of Makarska, where we were eager to reunite with old friends and soak in the beauty of the Adriatic coastline once more.
As fate would have it, we were greeted by the warm embrace of one of Peter's longtime friends, Maria. A true Croatian gem who, despite the passage of time, remained unchanged in her kindness and grace. Maria's journey had taken her from the shores of Australia back to her homeland, and we were fortunate to share in her stories of adventure and nostalgia.
Joined by Maria's brother, we talked about life on the Dalmatian coast, and the hordes of tourists that frequent the toen over summer. As we said farewell to Bogamir our merry band set out to explore the quaint streets of Tupeci, each corner filled with echoes of history and the vibrant spirit of its inhabitants. And what better way to cap off our reunion than with a leisurely lunch overlooking the bustling Marina of Makarska, where the scent of salt and sea mingled with the laughter of old friends.
As the day gently drifted into evening, Trilogy cast her anchor off the coast of Tupeci, a sight to behold against the backdrop of the setting sun, we headed to our anchorage for the night.

Today's log comes to you from the tranquil waters of the Adriatic, where Trilogy has embarked on yet another exhilarating journey. Last night brought unexpected excitement as we weathered a sudden storm in the Montenegro marina.
As the winds roared at 35 knots, Garth, our ever-vigilant skipper, sprang into action. For two hours, he valiantly fendered off our neighbouring vessels, ensuring we stayed secure amidst the tempest. Such dedication embodies the essence of a skilled skipper, willing to sacrifice sleep for the safety of the crew. Meanwhile, I blissfully slumbered through the commotion, oblivious to the chaos outside.
Morning light revealed chatter among the marina folk about the "Hugh" storm that had swept through. Yet, thanks to Garth's diligence, Trilogy emerged unscathed, ready to set sail once more. With smooth clearance from Montenegro customs and immigration--albeit amidst grumbles from the staff--we embarked on our next leg at 08:30.
The rugged beauty of Montenegro's coastline unfolded before us, with glimpses of a submarine base and the curious sight of a "5-star tourist jail." Despite facing headwinds, Trilogy surged ahead, propelled by the spirit of adventure.
Arriving in Dubrovnik, Croatia, we encountered a surprising twist: Garth and I were deemed temporary residents, raising questions about our Schengen days. It seems our journey is never short on bureaucratic surprises. Nevertheless, we press on, embracing the challenges as part of the seafaring experience.
Amidst administrative tasks, we received word of the imminent arrival of our ST-70 display--a crucial addition to Trilogy's navigation arsenal. Customs clearance was swiftly dealt with. A, reminder to Trilogy skippers to ensure all crew members are over 12 years old are duly listed with the Harbour Masterto avoid complications.
Tonight finds us anchored in a picturesque bay reminiscent of a bygone fishing village, nestled beneath the watchful gaze of The Dubrovnik castle. Tonight Garth takes on the role of chef, treating us to a hearty Spag-bol feast--a fitting reward for a day of navigation and unexpected twists.
As the sun sets over the Adriatic horizon, we raise a toast to the wonders of the sea and the camaraderie of the Trilogy crew. Tomorrow promises new adventures as we chart our course through the azure waters of Croatia. Until then, fair winds and following seas.

Trilogy set sail at 7am for Montenegro. The winds promised to be light and variable, a perfect weather window for the voyage. We hoisted the mainsail as soon as we were out of the bay and that allowed us to motor cruise at an average of 7 knots. The total distance of the passage was 155 NM and we broke into two watches from 9am on a 3 hourly rotation.
Following the coast of Albania for most of the daylight hours, intrigued us all. The skipper had read as much information as he could about the pros and cons of visiting Albania and the overwhelming weight of information was that Albania only had a few big ports that welcomed yachties but each of those ports had to be officially entered and departed. On this basis, our passage did not include entering Albania. What we saw across the water were high steep mountains with very little foliage, tumbling into the sea and smallish communities nestled on whatever flat ground at sea level was available. At one point we could see a long snaking road scouring the foothills and strange looking housing developments on either side of dirt covered areas. We eventually decided that there had been a landslide of considerable proportions that reached the sea. It seemed that there was a deep gorge either side of the snaking road , that probably collected the torrent of water from the mountain slopes behind, when it rained or snowed. One gully had been dammed and the housing developments may have been hastily constructed to house the homeless residents.
So what can we learn about Albania from other sources? In the antiquity, Albania was home to several Illyrian tribes, but also Thracian and Greek tribes. In the 3rd C BC the land was annexed by Rome and became part of some Roman provinces. The territory remained under Roman and Byzantine control until the Slavic migrations of the 7th C. Between the mid 14th and late 15 C, most of modern day Albania was dominated by Albanian principalities, which fell to the rapid invasion of the Ottoman Empire. It wasn’t until late November 1912 that the first independent Albanian state was founded, following a short occupation by Serbia. The formation of the Albanian national consciousness dates to the late 19th C.
In the 20th C there were two short-lived monarchies with a Republic in between. Albania was occupied by Italy just prior to World War 11 and during World War 11 by Nazi Germany. At the end of the war it became a one-party communist state. The communist regime collapsed in 1990 and this was followed by a period of instability with economic collapse and social unrest. It wasn’t until the beginning of the 21st C that improvement in the economic and social conditions enabled Albania to become a full member of NATO and the country is currently undergoing preparations to join the EU.
Albania is mountainous, with about three quarters of its territory being mountains and hills of elevations more than 200 metres. In the Northern Albanian Alps, the mountains are close to 2700 metres high and this is the least populated and most rugged and forested part of the country. The most important agricultural and industrial region and most densely populated therefore, are the low fertile plains of western Albania. The longest river is the Drin, with a length of 280 kms and Albania also has many lakes.
Like most Balkan people, Albanians shake their heads sideways to say ‘yes’ and usually nod their head and say ‘tsk’ to say ‘no’. Another interesting stat is that 70% of Albanians are Muslim, 20% Christian Orthodox and 10% Catholic but it is generally held that up to 75% of Albanians are atheists as religion was stamped out by the 1967 cultural revolution and Albania remains a very secular society.
As night fell, the darkness presented its own challenges. We were blessed with a clear sky and a gazillion stars, but with that came a heavy dew. We needed to don our warmer gear to repel the dampness that settled on Trilogy. The greatest challenge were fishing boats off the west coast of Albania. These vessels do not reveal themselves on AIS and displayed minimal lights. Approaching a single small white light believed to be a fishing vessel, it is not possible to judge the distance between Trilogy and the light until far too close. Training the binoculars on the light source may not reveal any new information, but eventually you may see a port or starboard navigation light, or if you are extra lucky, both lights together. It is hard to judge if the vessel is underway and if so, at what speed. As large fishing boats often trail nets behind them, this is a significant hazard for yachts. Trilogy had three close encounters during this night sail, and each time the watch members were somewhat shaken by the episode - firstly the uncertainty, then the reality and finally the evasive action required - all a bit taxing!
We dropped anchor in an open bay with sandy bottom called Kruce Rakita Beach around 5am. Before all of us headed for bed, the Greek courtesy flag was lowered and the yellow quarantine flag raised, so all would know of our intentions. The southern port of entry for Montenegro is Bar, 7NMs to the north of this bay. The skipper had decided not to anchor within the port of Bar as it is an industrial harbour with major shipping and circling around off the port was not a good option either.
However, next morning Trilogy entered the harbour and the skipper used the dock-and-go system to smoothly slide Trilogy sideways into a tight spot on the customs wharf. The officials were already on dockside waiting for us. A female with a stern manner requested the skipper to proceed with her and the rest of us were not allowed to leave Trilogy. Her ‘colleagues’, two very nice customs police were left to guard Trilogy. It wasn’t long before we were chatting to them and we learnt that they were seconded from the EU (one from the Netherlands and one from Austria) to oversee the change of processes that Montenegro were undergoing, in order to be accepted for EU membership. We waited and waited and eventually the skipper was sent back to Trilogy while yet more paperwork and formalities were completed. Then the skipper was summoned again and he was sternly cautioned by the Harbour Master for not sailing directly into the port and furthermore, did not telephone him at 5am, on arrival. The final cost for tourist passes for us all for Montenegro and Greek transit and customs fees was fees and fines to enter Montenegro was €300.
Meanwhile the crew amused themselves on board Trilogy and before long the nice policemen were called away to supervise other foreign yacht arrivals. One doubtful looking character was escorted by our nice policemen to a car .....where were they taking him?? An Australian registered catamaran called CathayOz was also checking in to Montenegro and the skipper told us that in the last 18 months the two of them had sailed from Sydney, through Asia, India, the Red Sea and into the Med. He hailed from Narrabeen and went to the same High School as Ross.....it’s a small world after all!
Four hours later, approval was granted for Trilogy and her crew to visit Montenegro and our skipper was able to return to his beloved yacht. By 4pm we were anchored in Malevich Bay, a small bay that had a bar and a few beach chairs for hire, but otherwise was surrounded by bushland. We swam to refresh ourselves and it was sometime later that we realised there was nude bathing at one end of the bay. Ignoring that, the bay offered a calm and secure anchorage which was just what we needed, a place to crash for the night and catch up on sleep.
Next morning, three of us set off for a walk into the closest village. This started with a short sharp climb up a very rough concreted road and from then, it was a kilometre or two walk into the town proper. We had to walk past a dog pound, that had a nasty bunch of bored dogs behind a high fence (thank goodness) and before long we were walking past low rise apartment blocks, all with a dilapidated appearance and rubbish liberally dumped on vacant lots. We saw a lovely little bakery selling a range of nice looking savoury breads, but as it was a cash only business, we could not buy anything. Around the next bend we came to a cafe which had a wood fired pizza oven preparing pocket bread for their specialty hamburgers, called pljeskavica. We did not know at the time, but these are regarded as the jewel of Montenegrin cuisine! The chef was English speaking and we enjoyed a chat with him. In a discussion about the pljeskavica, we learned that the meat could be beef, pork or chicken; there are not wild goats but there are some wild sheep, however lamb meat is not affordable in Montenegro. We were able to order cappuccinos but decaffeinated coffee is not known. It seems that tea is not a national drink either. The feeling was of winding back the clock 40-50 years; both men and women were seen smoking heavily, very old model cars mixed it with newer but not the latest models of vehicles and a passive surliness from everyone except our English speaking chef, who seemed delighted to talk to us. Back on board Trilogy set sail, but not before enjoying a nice swim and checking out some inviting caves.
The passage plan along the coast of Montenegro was short hops for the next few days. Two NMs further north, we dropped anchor in another lovely bay called Uvala Pecin. We ate another delicious Trilogy lunch and then relaxed for the afternoon, before two big snorkelling expeditions to the northern and southern shores. The southern rocky shore offered intriguing caves and the northern side had shafts of rock that appeared like a forgotten city. The sunset that night was stunning, not because of the sun per say, but the sun-kissed clouds and their reflections across the bay.
Our next port of call was Uvala Jaz. This was a wide open bay and we were entertained with all manner of water sport activities. It was a long swim to shore due to marker buoys being set well out and it seemed like Trilogy became the challenge for jetski drivers to aim at and zoom around, along with paddle boarders. When the crowd thinned on the beach we ventured into the water for a cooling swim but stayed around Trilogy, just in case.....
Next morning we all went ashore to have a walk and get a feel for the place. One end of the beach was devoted to low key resorts and the other end was for restaurants. As it was fast approaching the end of the season in mid September, there was quite a bit of packing up of the various paraphernalia on the beach...beach lounges, umbrellas, beach toys, but there were still significant numbers of beach lovers present, so it was not entirely put away. We found a cafe open for an early morning coffee and were a bit overwhelmed by the loud music and cigarette smoke. We departed and as we were approaching the end of the beach where the tender was tied up, we noticed another cafe that seemed more to our liking, so another round of coffees happened.
Back on Trilogy we continued for another 8NMs to reach Uvala Oblatna. On our way we could see several building construction sites, developing massive hotels. The appearance was ugly from afar, so goodness knows if the closeup was any better. There is no doubt that there are enormous funds being poured into tourism in Montenegro but the question remains, who is doing the funding??
Uvala Oblatna is another wide bay and we anchored to the left side. In front of us was one taverna, but it seemed that there was no road in and the only access was by foot or water. We swam in warmer water than than we had previously experienced and hatched a plan to go around to the main township next morning. We were all of the view that this was a completely new town that may well not have occupants yet. The street lights came on at dusk plus a few more lights in buildings, so we were curious to see what the story was. Some of us got dropped off at the taverna and walked on a board walk most of the way around the headland to the start of the town buildings. The others took the dinghy into the small harbour which was hidden behind a massive sea wall. We were all amazed to realise that this was indeed a very new development, pitched at the wealthy. The marina did not offer any yacht services but it provided a very safe haven for small to medium craft. The marina surrounds were very upmarket, with quality restaurants, hotels and retail stores catering for all the beautiful people. We were delighted to find that a bakery was open and we all enjoyed something to eat, along with coffee in the early morning sunshine.
Our final port of call for this wonderful sail from Catania in Sicily was Tivat in Montenegro. Tivat is a coastal town located in the central part of the Bay of Kotor, nestled under Mt Vrmac, which is 785 metres high. Mt Vrmac is a popular destination for hiking, orienteering and mountain biking. Tivat has a population of about 14,000 people.
The Bay of Kotor, also known as Boka, was surprisingly beautiful as we approached Tivat. It has been described as a winding bay of the Adriatic Sea and has been inhabited since the antiquity. It is about 28 kms long and is surrounded by two large mountain spines: the Orjen mountains to the west and the Lovćen mountains to the east. The bay is composed of several smaller broad bays, united by narrower channels. The bay inlet was formerly a river system which by tectonic and karstification processes, disintegrated.
We entered the marina and found our way to D15, where with virtually no wind, the skipper positioned Trilogy perfectly between two very large motor cruisers. It felt very hot in the marina and it didn’t take long for us all to work up a thirst. Plugged in to water and power, we soon had the aircon cooling below decks.
From here on the schedule is focused on preparing Trilogy for the winter months. Trilogy is currently located in Porto Montenegro, a large and very modern marina. The facilities are modern and clean and there are more restaurants than you can count, all vying for the tourist dollar. All the big brand fashion stores are showcased, so anything your little heart desires can be found.
This is the last report for this season. Thank you to all who have joined Trilogy in 2023 and have contributed to the success of the journey. For the last 7 weeks we have enjoyed beautiful scenery and weather, had a close-up look at some of the Ionian Islands and have had a tempting taste of Montenegro. Next year Trilogy will move further north into the Adriatic Sea and cruise the coast of Croatia.

Ros Brice

Some of us went for a walk in the cool of the early morning, to explore Paralia Notos, a small fishing village. The fishing boats came in with their catch, which amounted to very small sardine size fish. The larger boats had huge reels of fishing nets with the smallest of holes to trap the smallest of fish....there are no large fish, after all! Some locals arrived to get their fresh fish purchases from the boats but it was decided we weren't in need of such small fry.
Trilogy was underway by noon and motored only 4NM north to Moraitiki Beach where we dropped anchor in 5 metres. The sea was glassy and we all enjoyed a swim around Trilogy before relaxing. We decided to go ashore for dinner, as there was a dinghy wharf conveniently positioned right outside a 5 star hotel called Domes Miramare. We tried unsuccessfully to make a phone booking and, not to be deterred, we dressed in our 'finery' and approached the seaside facing restaurant which looked very inviting. The skipper spoke to the maître de and the only table available was inside, which he graciously accepted. The meal was beautifully cooked and we enjoyed our selections from the menu. We had some indecision over the wine selection and before we knew it the sommelier was at our table and she recommended a delicious but somewhat expensive wine for our meal. At no point was the price of the wine mentioned and that is the trap.....but we did enjoy every drop! Some of us stretched our stomachs to have dessert, which were delicious...baklava parfait and the bitter chocolate cake were both memorable. A nice touch was that the chef came to our table for a chat at the end of the meal. Naturally we let him know how much we enjoyed the meal. We mentioned that we were from the yacht 'out there' and that this meal was well above our usual evening fare. He humbly replied that he'd rather be 'out there', which again reminded us how fortunate we are. We waddled back to the tender and without incident, made it safely back on board.
Next morning, the sea was glassy smooth and some of us made our way to the same dinghy dock as the previous evening. The air was refreshingly cool and we walked along the foreshore in front of a continuous strip of low key resorts and restaurants. We eventually were stopped by a small inlet which was used by the local fishing boats. We headed inland and crossed the water by road bridge before heading back to the coastal strip, where we found predominantly local homes. We circled back past the local bus station and found a lovely little coffee shop across the road. Fortified by delicious cappuccinos (the Greeks do coffee well) we headed back along the main road to the Domes Miramare. The skipper was ready to lift the anchor straight away, as our next stop was to be in the D Marin Gouvia Marina, north of Corfu Town. The trip was very scenic, with green slopes and many beautiful homes perched on vantage points. The striking 15 C old fortress which overlooks the Corfu Town is positioned on the prominent headland to the east of the town. There is in fact a second fortress built by the Venetians which has a network of underground tunnels and this is located on the western side of the town.
We motored past the fortresses and admired the vista that surrounded us - superyachts, yachts, motor cruisers of varying sizes, Islands peninsulas, bays, fancy houses and folding hills. D Marin Gouvia Marina was at the end of a sweeping bay that required careful navigation through channel markers - woe betide those who take a shortcut across the shoals! We hung about while the marina staff assisted a superyacht ahead of Trilogy and then in we went - such a skilled crew are we....that it was a seamless operation, though there was no wind to hamper our performance! It was then that we met our new neighbours Mark and Nicole, from the UK on a Jeaneau 54, Absolute.
We enjoyed lunch below decks because of the heat, followed by a siesta (by now a habit) before emerging for a swim at the marina pool and a refreshing cocktail at poolside. The facilities at the marina were very pleasing with a laundry service, restaurants, supermarket, very clean shower facilities (with no hot water!!!) and good coffee! The downsides was that we had a 300 metre pontoon walk to get to the facilities and the marina is 15 minutes drive from downtown Corfu.
Mark and Linda were invited on board for drinks which melted into all going to Olympia Mare Restaurant in the marina for a very happy meal together. They were an interesting couple who are living the dream by living on their yacht for 3 months in the Greek Islands, 6 months in Barbados, where they have their home and the rest of the year in the UK. They were keen to visit Australia, even if we do have snakes that terrify Nicole. It was a very late night for us Aussies - we even saw midnight!
Next morning was another glorious day and this was to be our one day to get everything done and to do some sight seeing. The skipper was required to do a lot of paperwork relating to our imminent departure from Greek waters. With the help of an agent to make to process as smooth as possible, the job got done as the Greek authorities can string things out a bit.
Three of us set off for a drive north to explore the peninsula and the top of the island. We hired a small car and Ross negotiated the driving on the right side on the winding road with hairpin bends with ease. We were grateful that we did not encounter one of the local buses on these switchbacks! Most of the side streets seemed impossible to pick up before we passed them, so we drove on until we had time to see one that wound down into a beautiful little seaside village, Agios Stafanos Kassiopi, situated at the end of a deep bay called Agios Stefanos Harbour. At one end of the village there was a restaurant called Eucalyptus which reflected the number of Australian eucalypts in the surrounds. At sea level the road narrowed even further for about 100 metres on which sat five tavernas, with seating on the harbour side and the kitchen and indoor eating on the other. This is not uncommon in the Mediterranean cafe scene and waiters dodge the cars to deliver the food and drinks. In this little village thankfully, there were very few cars passing through. Google maps gave us the restaurant star ratings and we settled for the highest score of 4.7 at Taverna Galini. Ross had his heart set on a lamb chop meal for lunch and he was delighted when 6 plump cutlets and chips were delivered. Mary Anne chose a grilled squid and salad and I chose a Galini house specialty salad of lettuce, tomato, cucumber and avocado, on top of which was a generous serve of smoked salmon, crowned with a huge dollop of black caviar - we were all happy campers! We didn't travel further north as it could have meant going over a high mountain pass and we wanted to get back to Trilogy. By the tome of our return, Garth and Paul were free of the paperwork and we all headed into Corfu Town for a little look in the cooler part of the day.
Corfu Town is built on a promontory and is wedged between the two fortresses. The old town is a special place due to its beautiful Venetian buildings and setting. The usual tangle of narrow walking streets add to its charm. We found a spot to park near the east fortress and wandered along the paved cliff walk looking down upon the beach and swimming facilities below....sans sand. We passed through an archway and found a nice park area, with very old olive trees and pleasant garden beds. There was an overall impression of shabbiness about the outside of the residential buildings, but the public buildings were nicely maintained.
A little bit about the history of Corfu always adds to the understanding of the key ports of the Mediterranean. Around 1200BC Homer's Skheria described Corfu was the island home of the Phoenicians. Later the Corinthians colonised Corfu between 734-434BC, followed by the Romans in 229BC. By 722AD Corfu was part of the Byzantine Empire. The Turks mounted major assaults on Corfu in 1431 and 1716 and in 1797 the French took over and the regular street plan of Corfu Town was developed. By 1814 it was the British who occupied Corfu and they began many public works as well as introducing ginger beer, fruit cake and cricket!! In 1864, Corfu was ceded to the Greeks, but today Corfu still reflects these historical influences in its own architecture and culture.
Back at the marina we bought the last of our food items and then enjoyed our gin and tonics. We ate at a different marina taverna called Argo, where the service was friendly and the meals delicious. Paul was particularly delighted with his monster smoked pork hock....not a morsel remained! The other meals were slow cooked pot lamb and potatoes, veal in a garlic cream sauce and feta stuffed chicken breast....all yum!
Next morning we departed D Marin Gouvia Marina by 10.00, having bid farewell to Mark and Nicole. This was our last 24 hours in Greece and we all enjoyed the sail north along the Corfu coast, sailing in the narrow strait that separates Greece from Albania. We anchored in Arias Beach close to the north east tip of Corfu and found that we already had company. It was a tourist boat destination for day trippers and there were three boats all crowded into one side of the end of the bay. This was not the most scenic of beaches and we felt a little sorry that this was the experience that these people had been given. One boat had a big BBQ hotplate that was sending up clouds of smoke while the souvlaki was been charred for the guests. Lucky for us the smoke was being blown on shore, but for the guests on the beach..... none of these boats stayed too long and then we thought that we would have the bay to ourselves for the night, but that wasn't to be! By late afternoon a charter yacht decided to join us, but as Trilogy was nicely positioned in the middle of this small bay, there was insufficient swing room for another yacht. This skipper was not going to be deterred by that though and we were all entertained as he tried to anchor one side of Trilogy, then the other and several other failed manoeuvres lead the skipper to decide to Mediterranean moor by coming in between Trilogy and the beach and tying off to trees in the dense forest behind the pebbly beach...at least we didn't have to worry about them during the night, if the wind came up.
We had our last glorious swims on the island of Corfu and settled for the evening, well fed and watered, as usual. It was lovely to look out of the bay across the strait to Albania. The last rays of sun caught the silhouettes of white buildings, that appeared to be several storeys high. Behind the low hills of the township, steep slopes towered. A small island in the foreground had evidence of a fort in ruins, another reminder of bygone days, when naval attack was a serious threat.

Ros Brice