A Boat Too Far

In 2005 we bought a 46' catamaran in Thailand as a wreck. We removed the cabin, bridgedeck, main crossbeam and all the bulkheads then completely redisigned and rebuilt her in Phuket over the course of 5 years. It seemed like a good idea at the time..

26 April 2017
25 March 2017
17 March 2017
23 February 2017 | Cabo San Lucas
23 February 2017 | Bahia Magdalena
06 February 2017 | San Diego
23 September 2016 | Ventura West Marina
27 May 2016 | Bahia Asuncion
13 May 2016
30 March 2016 | Santa Rosalia
05 March 2016
12 February 2016
17 January 2016
08 December 2015 | Cabo San Lucas
27 November 2015 | Turtle Bay
16 November 2015 | Ensenada, Mexico
29 October 2013 | Santa Barbara
05 October 2013
03 October 2013

Back home

11 April 2020
Mike Reed
We ended up cutting out stay in Chile short due to the corona virus situation. All of the ports are closed and nobody is allowed to move their boats so we got ourselves up to Valdivia, buttoned up the boat and caught the last commercial flight out of Chile. The trip home took 36 hours, but it was the most pleasant we have ever made. The airports were deserted, there were no lines at check-in, security and immigration and the planes were nearly empty. So now we are hunkered down on our trawler in Ventura and getting ready to head out to the Channel Islands where we will continue to "shelter in place".

A Boat Too Far

26 March 2020
Annette
Last night we were swallowed up in a galaxy of stars like a ship in space. Twinkling constellations above us and reflected on the still water below us. Standing on the stern steps felt like floating in space, inducing vertigo that had us grabbing for the railings. This morning we woke up to perfect calm, the shoreline lit up by the morning sun reflecting on the mirrored water like a kaleidoscope. Rum Doxy feels like an island removed from the world, at least for now.
We are about a week out of Valdivia, one of the few open ports that will let us in. That is all we really know for sure. Once we get to dock we'll have a better idea of what our options are and how we will be dealt with. As far as we know we will undergo a health inspection, after that all is speculation. The one rumor that keeps repeating itself is that the Santiago airport will be closing soon, which gives us concern. We may be calling on some of you with contacts higher up who can bring us home, preferably on Air Force One!
For now we try to stay present in the moment and be fully here in this serene and beautiful place. It takes an effort though, not knowing and knowing, many people are suffering. Being so far away from all of you our family and friends is really hard and we hope we can make it home soon.

Seno Iceberg

15 March 2020
Mike
We missed this glacier due to weather on the way down, so we resolved to see it on the way up, and glad we did. This glacier is different from the others we have seen in the Cobalt blue of it's ice. We speculate that the ice cap is particularly thick in this area which compresses the air out of the ice. The result is ice with the clarity of crystal that reflects only the deepest blue that we have not seen until now. We were able to anchor nearby and approach the glacier closely in the dinghy and spent the afternoon messing around the ice floes and climbing on the nearby rocks.

We left before the next front could catch us and anchored the next day in a nice cove where otters played around the boat and biting flies feasted on our flesh. We are now anchored at the entrance to the Golfo de Penas awaiting a weather window tomorrow that should allow us to scoot across without too much punishment.

Bugs and Wind

07 March 2020
Annette and Mike
The longer we're here the more I appreciate and respect the delicate balance of the environment we are living in. For the last few days the temperature was unusually warm, high 60's ,low 70's, and very little wind. Great days for traveling north. But, with the balmy weather came the hoards of biting gnats, making it impossible to be outside except for anchoring. We cover ourselves from head to toe including head nets and still they bite. Every time a door is opened hundreds swarm in providing the next hour of entertainment swatting and vacuuming the pesky buggers up. It's very frustrating to be cooped up inside because of little critters. But today we're back to normal Patagonia weather, cold temperatures, wind and lots and lots of rain. The gnats are lying low, waterfalls are over flowing and rainbows fill the air. Time to put on our red survival suits and go outside to play.
Thursday evening, after a long, 57 mile travel day we chose an anchorage that was easy and didn't require us to tie to trees. The guide book described it as a secure anchorage, protected from wind in all directions, which was important because a strong front was forecast to come through the next day. Once through the narrow entrance, that we slipped through with the rocks just feet on either side, it looked safe enough, but we were a little skeptical as it seemed that the wind was free to blow down its length. Sure enough, when the front passed the next day we were treated to 50+ knot williwaws that would form at the head of the estero and barrel down on us as walls of wind that whipped the water into white froth and filled the air with clouds of spindrift. The anchor held fast, but it was not a relaxing afternoon. Another front was due the next morning so, as soon as the wind died down, we slipped out through the opening and moved to better spot. We went 3 miles up a fiord between steep granite walls and waterfalls to a tight little nook where we could back in and tie to the trees. Along the way we passed right through a pod of orcas, the first we have seen this year. When the front arrived this morning we sat in calm water, watching the whitecaps in the fiord. Much better.
As the front passed the temperature dropped, the rain poured down and the bugs have lost their nerve. It feels like we are in Patagonia again.

We broke free!

01 March 2020
Annette
According to the weather forecast there looked to be a small break in the wind this Sunday morning, then filling in later in the afternoon, so we were determined to move even if it was just another 10 miles toward our destination. We got a fairly early start once we cut ourselves free from the huge net we were tangled in with the anchor, no easy task. Once underway there were a list of obstacles we had to overcome one after another to make any real progress of which the weather played a major role but not all of it. So as we checked off one obstacle after another our spirits rose along with our optimism. First, was crossing the gulf which held us back the other day, no problem. Then our genius captain came up with a brilliant strategy in getting through the narrows by taking the high route Angestora White, instead of the popular main thoroughfare Angestora Kirke. There were high winds and strong currents in Kirke (not sure why everyone goes this way)at the time we would have gone through, but by taking the alternative route we passed through with no wind, flat water, and current with us, not to mention it is a way more scenic route. Hurdle 2 conquered. As we reentered the west/east channel we feared the winds blowing through Kirke would prevent us from continuing but with both motors, and no counter current we were able to continue on at a decent speed, 3rd success accomplished. Side note; Just as we were about to reenter the west/east channel with 5 knots of wind, about 2 miles ahead of us we witnessed a bona-fide water tornado swirling water up into the sky right across our path! Our Last obstacle was getting up Seno Union. With no current and both motors we made steady progress toward our optimal destination 47 miles from Puerto Natales! It feels really good to be making northerly progress again.

Caleta Delano

29 February 2020
Mike
We've been here for the past 5 days waiting for the wind to lay down enough for us to make it back to the West side of the Andes and continue North. As we mentioned before, the weather on this side of the mountains is a lot drier and often clear. We have even seen the stars for the first time since we've been down here. The wind, on the other hand, is relentless. We thought we saw a chance yesterday morning and made it almost 3 miles before the wind filled in and we had 30-35 knots right on the nose. The needle on the fun meter was hovering around zero, so we beat a retreat back here and the wind has settled back to the usual 30-40 knots. Even the local swans have been having a rough time of it. They do not appear to be well ballasted and are easily capsized in the gusts, as can be seen in the photo above.

It looks like the wind may finally settle down soon and we should be able to make a move in the next couple of days, leaving the swans to fend for themselves.

Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
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<pre class="k9mail">[s]<br />[c1]p:51 48.41's:72 36.21'w<br />[t]Caleta Delano<br />[a]Mike<br />[b]We've been here for the past 5 days waiting for the wind to lay down enough for us to make it back to the West side of the Andes and continue North. As we mentioned before, the weather on this side of the mountains is a lot drier and often clear. We have even seen the stars for the first time since we've been down here. The wind, on the other hand, is relentless. We thought we saw a chance yesterday morning and made it almost 3 miles before the wind filled in and we had 30-35 knots right on the nose. The needle on the fun meter was hovering around zero, so we beat a retreat back here and the wind has settled back to the usual 30-40 knots. Even the local swans have been having a rough time of it. They do not appear to be well ballasted and are easily capsized in the gusts, as can be seen in the photo above. <br /><br />It looks like the wind may finally settle down soon and we s
hould
be able to make a move in the next couple of days, leaving the swans to fend for themselves.<br /><br />Sent from Iridium Mail &amp; Web.</pre>
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Vessel Name: Rum Doxy
Vessel Make/Model: 46' Custom Catamaran
Hailing Port: Santa Barbara, California
Crew: Mike Reed, Annette Reed
Extra: A "rum doxy" is 18th century pirate-speak for a woman of remarkable character and ambiguous virtue
Rum Doxy 's Photos - Chile 2019
Photos 1 to 79 of 79 | Main
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Sunset at Alowplast Marina
The bus we had a hard time getting on.
Puerto Ingles
Our friends on Sea Rover II, Gary and Karina
Glacier Margarita Ice
LLao LLao Resort
My perfect birthday!
We took a chair lift to the top of the Cerro Catedral Ski resort and hiked to the summit for an amazing view.
Bariloche town center, strong Bavarian influence
We finally made it to Bariloche, having missed one bus and almost missing the second attempt. We were welcomed with clear blue skies and a beautiful view.
In 1645 the Spanish began building fortresses with gun batteries to protect the entrance of Bahia Corral.
Pissed off Killdeer
Vogel Beeren
Getting tanked at Kunstmann Brewery, one of Valdivia
LLao LLao peninsula
After missing the bus again we made the best of it by going out to LLao LLao .
Andean Fox: When we reached the summit and could go no further, out came an Andean fox to welcome us to it
View from our balcony: .
South Pacific sunset
Albatross were our constant companions for the last week of our passage from Easter Island to Chile. We continue to the the Black Browed Albatross daily in the canals.
A break in the action
Land ho!: On the 16th day out of Easter Island we sighted the mainland and were escorted in by a large pod of Peale
Heading south in the canals we anchored within sight of the Chaiten Volcano, which erupted a few years ago, forcing the evacuation of the town at it
Our first penguins. These are Magellanic Penguins.
Tic Toc Bay from the air
Souhern Sea Lions and Imperial Shags
Caleta Punta Porvenir
Humpback in the Moraleda Channel. We saw several Fins and humpbacks here, our first since Mexico. We saw a small pod of Orcas just south of Puerto Aguirre.
Ringed Kingfisher.
Sunrise in the canals
surfin
The beer getting special attention. It should ferment at about 68* but it rarely gets above 60 in the hulls, so the beer gets to sit up top with us and gets it
Steamer duck. : These guys are flightless and scoot across the water, using their wings as propellers.
Lichen
The view from Puerto Santo Domingo
First glimpse of the icefields
White sand beach at Caleta Porvenir
Bird
Estero Odger during a break in the rain.
These things are everywhere, often the flowers are floating in the anchorages.
Rio Los Patos, just outside the Laguna, where we got our anchor stuck on a log and were hit by a bergy bit the size of an SUV in the middle of the night. You can  just see a small chunk oof ice in the middle of the river.
Sunrise at Estero Empedrado
Male and female Kelp Geese. No idea which is which.
Puerto Aguirre. Rum Doxy is on the left side of town.
Fog bank while leaving Puerto Aguirre. Visibility was about 100
Caleta Manuel, that we nicknamed "Caleta Rorshach"
No shortage of waterfalls along the way
Going for a swim, again. This time to clear the dinghy painter off the prop.
Bahia Pescador. The anchor is in 23 meters, the stern is in 2 meters.
Puerto Juan Yates in Bahia Tic Toc. The bottom is foul with rocks, so we just tied between the 2 islands.
Paddling in Bahia Pescador
Alpenglow on Monte Yanteles
Kaleidoscope rocks in Caleta Rorshach
One of the ever-present Magellenic Penguins
Fishing fleet at Isla Mechuque
Ibis
 
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